A look at what’s new and noteworthy at the AmericasMart.
REDUX - PHILIP DICAPRIO
Arnold Helman & Associates
Creating contemporary looks with unorthodox fabrics is the focus for partner Philip DiCaprio of Redux. This season, the line focuses on dresses and separates in silk and silk blends. "Silk makes women feel like women," said DiCaprio.
Redux’s spring looks feature subtle animal prints and romantic floral designs, in bright colors like fuschia, turquoise, and soft pinks and yellows.
Wholesale prices for tops range from $39 to $49; $40 to $69 for bottoms, and $79 to $109 for dresses. Redux has over 500 specialty and better department store accounts including Nordstrom’s, Bloomingdale’s, and Lord & Taylor. Sales volume is projected at $5 million wholesale for 2002. Numbers are expected to double next year, according to DiCaprio.
Introduced to the U.S. with its Atlanta showing in August, Winnipeg, Canada-based Excitée’s debut collection includes a mixture of form-fitting and flared European-styled denim jeans and jackets, as well as activewear tops and bottoms in cotton-spandex blends. The better-range collection also relies on detailing such as embossed stitching, low rises and extra-long flare and boot-cut inseams to create the line’s sexy, super-snug look.
Excitée targets women aged 30 and up and wholesales between $45 for a sleeveless hooded-front top to $75 for a stretch twill jacket with suede trim. Jeans wholesale for an average of $55 and are available in stretched denim and twill fabrics.
Among the line’s most popular pieces have been the "Vanessa," a five-pocket flare-cut denim pant available in dark indigo with matching jacket and the "Eezee," a comfortable capri. Other bottoms include the "Vertigo," a boot-cut stretch denim jean with vertical pintucks and the boot-cut cotton-spandex blended "Foxy." The line offers eight washes, including a traditional stonewash and what the company terms a "bronze blast."
Based in Los Angeles, Makers USA makes its Atlanta debut this fall with a bottom-driven collection of stretch and cross-hatch denim activewear and jeans. The line uses detailed lace appliqués and embellishments of precious jewels, and is available in traditional stone and indigo washes. Jeans are available with boot and flare-cut inseams and offers conventional low-to-mid rises. The updated misses’ collection also includes several capri and jumpsuit designs in brightly colored cotton-spandex blends.Pieces wholesale from $30 for a pair of dark-wash denim shorts to $100,000 for a pair of the line’s "Diamond Collection" jeans that feature genuine diamonds, rubies and emerald applied to hemline areas. Makers USA owner Sam Kim projects first-year sales volume to be $6 million wholesale.
Garyk Lee Collections
Don Overcast & Associates
This Palm Beach, Calif.-based bridge line is actually two collections fused into one this season. Offering day and evening separates in sizes 2-16 is the line’s Couture Collection, which features silk maltesse and textured doupioni dresses with embroidered organza detailing, as well as several jacket and pants silhouettes. Wholesaling from $50-$220, the line is available in six key colors including black, ecru, olive and mango and uses silk and silk-blends as its fundamental fabrics. The line’s Sporture Collection is a travel-inspired resort collection featuring cotton and microfiber-blend tunics, shorts and skirts, along with piqué tops and lightweight jackets. Sized S-XL, pieces wholesale from $30 for a knit top to $55 for a cotton-blend skirt.
Another addition to Don Overcast this market is Montreal-based Oblique, a moderately priced social occasion label targeting women between 20 and 45 years of age. Carrying wholesale price points ranging from $60 to $100, key items this season include knee-length cap-sleeved dresses with slightly extended tulle underlay and tradition double-layered evening dresses with floral lacework and organza mesh. Made primarily from silk and satin blends, many of the dresses feature bodice tops with ribbon lacing and satin trim that can be worn as separates.The line’s spring collection emphasizes soft hues such as mint, blush and pale yellow.
Tim Philbin Accessories
Roka Jewelry designer and owner Roanne Kolvenback’s education in the fields of architecture and ceramics shine through in her new bridge-to-better jewelry line that applies sculptural techniques to gold and silver to create bold yet feminine pieces targeted toward consumers between 20 and 50 years of age.
Wholesaling from $82 to $1,800, the line’s gold collection features an arrangement of white and yellow gold rings, earrings and bracelets, including a thickly banded gold cluster ring with tightly gathered round rubies and a pair of elongated drop earrings with dangling pink blush pearls attached.Equally impressive is the line’s silver collection. With prices ranging from $16 wholesale to $84, the silver grouping fuses abstract ornamental sculptures with semiprecious gems such as garnets, carnelian and coral to create a colorful, organic look. Many of the lavaliere-styled necklaces and bracelets incorporate leather in rich chocolate and olive tones.Nationally, New York-based Roka Jewelry has 80 specialty accounts, including Atlanta retailers Potpourri and BD Jeffries, and Renditions in Dallas.
Also new to Tim Philbin’s showroom at the October market is Tel Aviv, Israel-based designer Michal Negrin’s delicate, classically designed jewelry collection.
Featuring an extensive line of metal and embroidered bracelets, jeweled hairpieces and cameos, the line uses delicate color combinations and intricate Victorian lacework to define its feminine and highly vintage look.
Wholesaling from $18 for a pair of crystal drop earrings to $80 for a beaded chandelier necklace. The line makes its Atlanta premiere this season after a successful spring debut in New York, where it sold out at department stores Saks Fifth Avenue and Bergdorf Goodman.
Mark Garland Studio Inc.
The Tustin, Calif.-based Gett is a sophisticated misses’ collection using contemporary fabrics from Europe and Asia. Designer Paola Borja collaborates with designers in China to develop solid-based separates that are fabric-driven and color-coordinated. Sized 2 to 14, the 10-year-old company stands out by offering simple, clean silhouettes in rich fabrics like stretch silk, viscose-cotton blends, and a no-wrinkle linen-spandex blend.
Targeting women aged 30 to 60, Gett’s latest offerings include a best-selling square-neck knit shell with plackets running down the front seam. "There is an emphasis on color hues — everything matches perfectly," noted Borja, describing plum-colored bottoms that coordinate with lavender tops for spring. Tops are designed to pair well with denim.
With the entire collection priced wholesale between $40 to $80, Gett’s 600 specialty and better department store accounts include Bloomingdale’s, Jami’s in Naples, Fla., and the Cotton Mill Collection in Nashville, Tenn.
ANDY THE-ANH FOR P.O.W.
Power of Women, known simply as P.O.W., is an interesting interpretation of urban chic, lending exotic Mideastern flavor to contemporary activewear silhouettes. Offering over 80 draped and finely textured Byzantine-influenced pieces, the line wholesales from $38 for a ruched microjersey top to $150 for a linen viscose-blend jacket. Also available are several novelty silk print blouses and low-rise, flare-cut pants and skirts in sizes 2-14. The collection’s spring color palette is a sharp contrast to the line’s earth-driven fall tones, featuring hues ranging from white and creme to coral, muted crimson, burnt orange and rose.Vietnamese-born designer and owner Andy Thê-Anh’s use of flowing European silks along with asymmetrical lines and detailed stitching create a luxurious couture-inspired look, targeting women aged 25 to 40-years-old.
Launched in fall 2001, the Montreal-based line has 100 Canadian retail accounts and 75 in the U.S., including Signature Boutique in Atlanta and Simply Irresistible in Augusta.
Supermodel @helenachristensen teamed up with longtime friend and designer @camillastaerk on a joint @paredeyewear collaboration. The lineup features three styles and 11 offerings, all of which embody a vintage feel. Get all the details on how they celebrated the collab on WWD.com. #wwdaccessories #wwdeye (📷: @slovekinpics)
“It’s a hard industry to keep motivated, as well, so finding different subjects and people is what makes it worth it – when you’re like, oh, I’ve met great people, I feel like I’ve done something good, and I feel proud of having done this,” said French actress Stacy Martin on being grateful for the variety of roles she’s take on. Read @ktauer’s full interview with Martin on her her latest film “Godard Mon Amour.” #wwdeye (📷: @danieldorsa)
After showing in front of the Eiffel Tower for his last two women’s ready-to-wear collection, it looks like @anthonyvaccarello may be heading to the Big Apple. Sources say the designer will stage his next @ysl show in NYC on June 6. Get all the details on WWD.com. #wwdnews #wwdfashion (📷: @aitorrosasphoto)
EXCLUSIVE: Two and half months after John Targon, cofounder and codesigner of Baja East, was hired as creative director of the contemporary division at Marc Jacobs, he has left the company, WWD has learned. Marc Jacobs International, which is owned by LVMH Moët Hennessy Louis Vuitton, confirmed Targon’s departure in a statement: “John Targon is a talented designer and we appreciate the work he has done here. Ultimately working together did not make sense for the brand and we wish him the best.” Read the story by @jessiredale, link in bio. #wwdnews
@theluxurycollection is officially launching a collection, tapping Sofia Sanchez de Betak for the capsule. Over 30 styles will be featured in the Chufy x The Luxury Collection, debuting next month at Bergdorf Goodman, The Webster, FiveStory and more. De Betak, known as “@chufy,” drew inspiration for the collection from her trips to Japan in the past year #wwdfashion
@lhd, founder and CEO of @thewebster, has teamed up with @lebonmarcherivegauche for the European launch of her ready-to-wear line, LHD. The launch will come with an exclusive pop-up opening today that’s set to run through May 20. Located on the second floor, it carries her debut Miami-themed resort collection, launched in November as see-now-buy-now. #wwdfashion