Think fashion movie. Designers’ imaginations ran wild this season, from James Coviello’s 19th-century-style country looks to a Luca Luca collection that recalled "The Night Porter" and over-the-top rockers at Carla Dawn Behrle and even...
Think fashion movie. Designers’ imaginations ran wild this season, from James Coviello’s 19th-century-style country looks to a Luca Luca collection that recalled "The Night Porter" and over-the-top rockers at Carla Dawn Behrle and even Chaiken.
James Coviello: It looks as though James Coviello’s love of the country life — circa 1850 — got the best of him. While he did do some of the quirky, sweetly romantic clothes that have built him a fan base of Victorian chic-loving girls, most of his fall showing laid on the country accent a little too thick.
The designer displayed his talents with the pretty, piped floral dress, which made the best of his attention to detail and his uniquely retro vision. But the same cannot be said for Tyrolean-inspired embroidered vests and jackets, or the skirts and tops based on crocheted tea cozies. And is there a market for designer clothes that are only appropriate for collecting the morning firewood, as in his reindeer motif cardigan and plaid cargos? Not likely.
Chaiken: Dreaming of being a rock ’n’ roll star? Well, designer Jeff Mahshie is certainly interested in dressing them. And this time, the clean look he usually delivers at Chaiken took a backseat to his wilder side. Mahshie reminisced about Seventies and Eighties glam, when pop icons dressed in drippy, beaded camisoles; leather lace jeans; cool floor-length shearlings, and razor-sharp pinstripe jackets. But some of the combinations suggested a bad acid trip. Floral jackets, bleached tops and pinstripe pants sound frightening, and they were. And anything like tie-dyed pants should never be brought back.
Luca Luca: Luca Orlandi took inspiration from the dark 1973 film, "The Night Porter," playing a masculine-feminine tug-of-war with elements of S&M. He shifted from literal black military uniforms and suspendered numbers — á la Charlotte Rampling’s character — to liquid satin dresses in black or blood red. And where he tended to mix in too many tricks and details in the past, he kept things clean and simple this time with chiffon blouses over sexy pencil skirts or sharply tailored suits. He also sent out a group of black leather pieces — embroidered pants, strapless minidress and an above-the-knee skirt — all fitted like second skins. With that said, the most exciting moment came when his former girlfriend Naomi Campbell, in one of his best looks, a black beaded and crocheted dress, took a turn on the runway.
Carla Dawn Behrle: This designer may be new to the runway, but she’s no rookie. Behrle is already known for dressing Lauryn Hill, Madonna, Angelina Jolie and the Spice Girls, as well as those dropping by her "appointment-only" Chelsea studio. Judging by her first formal show last week, Behrle’s racy over-the-top leathers might be seen to better advantage in that private venue.
With nearly nude models strutting Behrle’s dominatrix-style leather stuff on a street-level runway and dozens of ogling men outside, pushed up against the glass of the Times Square Studios, it was all a bit unnerving. But it was an iffy collection anyway, one that might have been more successful if the long starburst suede coat were over anything other than gold leather panties; if the very-revealing lacy leather dresses, skirts or tops had some sort of lining; if the black leather mini didn’t have a floor-length fringed tail, and if anyone more than a size two could handle Behrle’s ruched leather leggings. But then…if my grandmother had wheels, she’d be a streetcar.
Alvin Valley: It’s never a good sign when a show feels heavy-handed before the first model even sets foot on the runway. But such was the case with Alvin Valley, where not only much of his collection, but also the loud, inexplicable performance by a Chinese percussion group, begged the question: Was this really necessary?
While Valley’s pants — his forte — didn’t disappoint, he overloaded on Far East references and gratuitous details that pushed the collection into a land of confusion. Sure, a little bit of fur trim works well on a sweater dress, but when you overdo it, as Valley did, the result is less chic and more bride of Conan the Barbarian. And why give the collar of a cropped alligator jacket a huge ruffle or cover up perfectly cut jeans with half a leather chap? When Valley did rein himself in, he did so to good effect — a black velvet suit with cutaway jacket or the tweed coat with quilted leather accents. He closed with a series of evening looks, ranging from chic to boring, set in an expensively appointed party scene, presided over by his apparent B.F.F.s, the ubiquitous Hilton sisters.
There'll be no rest for those headed to Europe for men's, as Paris just closed the gap with Milan. According to a provisional calendar released by the Chambre Syndicale, Paris Men's Week will now open a day earlier on January 16. See new highlights on the official lineup on WWD.com. #wwdnews #wwdfashion (📷: @kukukuba)
BREAKING: Jonathan Saunders is leaving @DVF. The designer has resigned from his position as chief creative officer of Diane von Furstenberg, the company said in a statement on Friday. At the time of his hire, von Furstenberg said Saunders’ arrival symbolized and facilitated her stepping back from the day-to-day duties that occupy the work of a full-time creative director. The British designer joined DVF in May 2016 and was in charge of all product categories. #wwdnews
For @versace_official’s spring ad campaign, the brand emphasized the archival prints from the spring tribute collection dedicated to the late Gianni Versace. Closing out the show were five of Gianni’s favorite models: Cindy, Naomi, Carla, Helena, and Claudia. Bowing on December 18, the new campaign is yet another tribute to supermodel-dom as the images by Steven Meisel are fronted by @iamnaomicampbell, @cturlington, @gisele and more. #wwdfashion
Four-time Oscar-nominated actress Annette Bening has been waiting 20 years to play Gloria Graham in "Film Stars Don't Die in Liverpool," which will be released on December 29. The movie about Graham – a Hollywood star known for her controversial relationship with a younger Englishman named Peter Turner – is based off a memoir Turned wrote. "She felt vulnerable to him, because she loved him, she really did love him. And anyone that we really truly are in love with, we re vulnerable to in a very deep way," said Bening. Read our full interview with the modern icon of an actress on WWD.com. #wwdeye (📷: @ninebagatelles; Styled by @cristinaehrlich)
The crisp white button down: a staple that can be dressed up or down and accessorized throughout the decades. Here, on a Art Basel-goer in 2017 on the left and on the iconic Audrey Hepburn in “Roman Holiday” in 1953 on the right. #tbt #wwdfashion (📷: Andrew Morales)
Known for her work with @victoriassecret, 25-year-old model @georgiafowler is raising her profile in Hollywood. Fowler stars in @vincecamuto’s holiday campaign, which launched in partnership with “Pitch Perfect 3.” “Almost every shoot with Vince Camuto, I’ve had to face a fear…It was definitely a challenge. I’m so grateful for it, though. I’ve always wanted to be a pop star, so that was the perfect chance,” Fowler said. Head to WWD.com to read about Fowler’s experience modeling, including at the #VSFashionShow, and her relationship with Nick Jonas. #wwdeye (📷: @jilliansollazzo)
EXCLUSIVE: Huda Kattan just became the first beauty influencer to land a major beauty deal. Kattan's business, @hudabeauty, has received a minority investment from private equity firm TSG Consumer Partners. The brand, which industry sources say is on track to do $200 million in retail sales for 2017, will receive support on product, retail and geographic expansion through the deal. Get all the details on the deal and read @_a_collins' interview with Kattan on WWD.com. Link in bio. (📷: @jgreenery) #wwdbeauty #wwdnews
Peruvian model @juanaburga_official – who is known for walking the runways of @rodarte, @viviennewestwood and @torybuch – is making the move to the big screen with drama “Los Últimos.” The film premiered in Argentina in November and arrives in the U.S. and Europe in 2018. On making the switch from modeling to acting, Burga told WWD: “It’s a completely different thing – a lot of people think it’s similar or try to connect things, especially like getting used to the camera or being looked at all the time or playing these different characrers, but film is a completely different story.” #wwdeye (📷: @jgreenery)
London’s newly opened @designmuseum will look back on the life and work of Azzedine Alaïa in a show that the designer helped to curate before he died of heart failure last month. The retrospective, which Alaïa had worked on with Mark Wilson, chief curator of the @groningermuseum, will look at the impact of his work worldwide. The show, “Azzedine Alaïa: The Couturier,” will run from May 10 to October 7. Read more about the exhibit on WWD.com #wwdnews #wwdfashion (📷: @zefashioninsider)