New York: all the World’s a Stage: Sir Ralph Goes a-Courting While Isaac Breaks a Leg
Ralph Lauren: On a Crusade
Ralph Lauren is into time travel -- English-style. Setting the mood with music from Orlando, he roamed the centuries, making stops from King Arthur's Court to an Edwardian stable. Nobody loves a kilt...
Ralph Lauren is into time travel -- English-style. Setting the mood with music from Orlando, he roamed the centuries, making stops from King Arthur's Court to an Edwardian stable. Nobody loves a kilt more than Ralph. This time, he did them in mohair, decking his lassies in huge, furry plaids, often with matching jackets. But he also mixed the fabric with all sorts of other textures -- tweeds, Aran-inspired cables, suede and leather -- for sweaters, vests and jackets that were closed with kilt buckles and brightened with a crisp white ruff at the neck.
Ralph went Edwardian with a sassy lineup of beautifully cut riding jackets and coachman's coats. These were in red and black, with occasional spots of fake cheetah.
When Sir Ralph went a-courting, he did it with the gusto of a zealot on crusade and sometimes got a little too costumey. There were lace-up knights' tunics, leather breastplates, gold bullion cross and lion insignias, leather-trimmed Guinevere gowns, chain-mail sleeves on dresses, and metallic leather "armor" so authentic you could perch it on a horse at the Metropolitan Museum.
Escada: Good Sports
After a few difficult seasons, it looks like Escada is making a big push to reclaim its power position in the American market. And Tuesday's show was a double-barreled presentation, with the Escada line teamed up with the new and breezy Escada Sport collection.
It's clear that Escada boss Wolfgang Ley is out to broaden his customer base, and the Sport collection is sure to attract a fresh, younger crop of fans. Cashmere sweats, plaid flannel shirts, hooded pullovers, blazers, jeans, quilted vests and peacoats were layered and styled with as much vitality as anything else in town. All commercially sound.
What was strongest in the Escada collection designed by Michael Stolzenberg and his team were the short, snappy knit polo dresses under matching cardigans and a whole raft of coats -- from luxurious belted cashmeres to long, sweeping shearlings.
The long evening numbers, however, seemed unnecessary and a bit jarring compared to the strong sportswear.
Isaac Mizrahi: Mad About HueIsaac Mizrahi really knows how to put on a show. He's gearing up for his big APLA extravaganza in Los Angeles next month, and he'll hit the road with a production worthy of Broadway -- and clothes that are more than a match for the schtick.
It was great to see. Mizrahi has had some tough going in recent seasons, and with this collection, he pulled everything together like the Isaac of old -- the energy, excitement, ideas, and the joy.
He started by turning the lights up behind a skrim, giving his audience a peak at what goes on backstage. But the real story was on the runway, where there was never a dull moment -- literally. He had said this collection would be "insane with color," and he wasn't kidding. He worked in the palette of a crazed artiste, mixing powder blue, cranberry, orange, aqua and a plethora of pinks -- poodle, pepto, powder and pez. Why be discreet when you're tossing striped or plaid silk taffeta down jackets -- so puffy they looked inflated -- over huge, hip-sitting ballskirts or floor-length fake "beast" coats over sequined nightgowns?
But it wasn't all the stuff of theatrics. This collection was filled with fabulous things to wear, right down to the most amusing boots in town. There were camel peacoats, pastel shearlings with sleeves on the fluffy side and rubberized tweed raincoats. He also showed little skating dresses and some of the best suits Isaac's done in years. Almost invariably, these had short skirts, often a full wool tulle tutu. But Mizrahi also dabbled in that new knee-covering length for a pair of kilts that looked fresher than their many mini relations.
Isaac didn't work all the kinks out of his production, for example, costumey corsets, dresses with pompons gone awry and others that looked just plain dowdy. But by and large, the man's got a hit on his hands.
@chanel and @pharrell dropped what’s being dubbed as the world’s most exclusive sneakers yesterday. The Adidas Originals NMD Hu, which Williams designed in collaboration with Chanel and @adidasoriginals, has a waiting list of over 120K people who pre-registered online at chanelatcolette.fr –– and only 500 pairs are on sale. The singer predicted the resale value of the shoes could reach $40K. Read the full interview on WWD.com. Link in bio. #wwdfashion (📷: Dominique Maître)
@imanshumpert is diving deeper into his creative endeavors and relaunching his clothing line, Post 90s, and is helping to raise money for the hurricane victims in St. Maarten with a jersey he’s designed with his brother. The Cleveland Cavaliers player talked to WWD about kneeling during the national anthem, working with fashion brands and how he wants to be more than an @nba player. Read the interview on WWD.com #wwdfashion (📷: George Chinese)
Not only does #TheProfit return to CNBC tonight, but @marcuslemonis has launched @shopmarcus, a new shopping and lifestyle retail experience in Aspen and Chicago, with more locations to come. The retail stores offer in-store stylists and a variety of contemporary womenswear selections.
“It’s life, I’m going to face it,” @mingxi11 sighed. “I fell, but you know, I think the most important thing is that I get back up. I had the love, the help from my sister — the girl next to me Gizele [Oliveira] — she’s so nice. When I went backstage everybody was trying to comfort me like ‘Oh Ming, it’s OK.’ I’m really, really touched. I think it’s them who gave me the courage to go back on stage for the finale,” Xi told WWD of her fall at the @victoriassecret fashion show. (📷: David Fisher) #wwdfashion #vsfashionshow #victoriassecret
@louisvuitton tapped @therealpeterlindbergh for its latest city-centric photo book, which is part of a series called Fashion Eye. The primarily black and white book captures the spirit of Berlin in 57 images shot between 1989 and 2019. “Berlin is an inspiration for me, more than a city. I mean @millajovovich is simply Berlin!” said Lindbergh. #wwdfashion
“You know, I think audiences expect a certain performance so I have to deliver to them what they’re expecting to a certain degree. But I’m also a different actor and a different person, I have my own spin on the character,” says @noahegalvin of his takeover of the leading role in “Dear Evan Hansen” following the departure of @bensplatt, who originated the role. Read WWD’s interview with the 23-year-old actor on WWD.com #wwdeye (📷: @jilliansollazzo)
For pre-fall 2018, @etro created richly-colored wonderland, using tapestries, textiles and wallpapers from the Eastern world at large. The line featured floral and graphic prints and jacquard motifs, like this two-piece look featured here. #wwdfashion (📷: Giovanna Pavesi)
@kith is moving into children’s. The men’s and women’s streetwear brand has launched Kidset, a Kith kids line located in New York at 64 Bleecker Street. The line includes mini versions of staple Kith pieces like the Astor bomber jacket and the Kith box logo sweatshirts, along with a wall that can display up to 120 pairs of shoes from @adidas, @newbalance, @timberland and more. #wwdfashion
“I just wanted to create this fully rounded character, but I do think what excited me most was just the opportunity to give a group of people representation that I feel needs it. I like to do characters in projects that stand for something and Karolina definitely does, so that was really exciting to me,” @ginnygardner says of her new role in @hulu’s “The Runaways.” Gardner plays Karolina Dean, a queer superhero, which is a rarity for @marvel. Read more about Gardner’s character on WWD.com #wwdeye (📷: @dandoperalski)