New York: all the World’s a Stage: Sir Ralph Goes a-Courting While Isaac Breaks a Leg
Ralph Lauren: On a Crusade
Ralph Lauren is into time travel -- English-style. Setting the mood with music from Orlando, he roamed the centuries, making stops from King Arthur's Court to an Edwardian stable. Nobody loves a kilt...
Ralph Lauren is into time travel -- English-style. Setting the mood with music from Orlando, he roamed the centuries, making stops from King Arthur's Court to an Edwardian stable. Nobody loves a kilt more than Ralph. This time, he did them in mohair, decking his lassies in huge, furry plaids, often with matching jackets. But he also mixed the fabric with all sorts of other textures -- tweeds, Aran-inspired cables, suede and leather -- for sweaters, vests and jackets that were closed with kilt buckles and brightened with a crisp white ruff at the neck.
Ralph went Edwardian with a sassy lineup of beautifully cut riding jackets and coachman's coats. These were in red and black, with occasional spots of fake cheetah.
When Sir Ralph went a-courting, he did it with the gusto of a zealot on crusade and sometimes got a little too costumey. There were lace-up knights' tunics, leather breastplates, gold bullion cross and lion insignias, leather-trimmed Guinevere gowns, chain-mail sleeves on dresses, and metallic leather "armor" so authentic you could perch it on a horse at the Metropolitan Museum.
Escada: Good Sports
After a few difficult seasons, it looks like Escada is making a big push to reclaim its power position in the American market. And Tuesday's show was a double-barreled presentation, with the Escada line teamed up with the new and breezy Escada Sport collection.
It's clear that Escada boss Wolfgang Ley is out to broaden his customer base, and the Sport collection is sure to attract a fresh, younger crop of fans. Cashmere sweats, plaid flannel shirts, hooded pullovers, blazers, jeans, quilted vests and peacoats were layered and styled with as much vitality as anything else in town. All commercially sound.
What was strongest in the Escada collection designed by Michael Stolzenberg and his team were the short, snappy knit polo dresses under matching cardigans and a whole raft of coats -- from luxurious belted cashmeres to long, sweeping shearlings.
The long evening numbers, however, seemed unnecessary and a bit jarring compared to the strong sportswear.
Isaac Mizrahi: Mad About HueIsaac Mizrahi really knows how to put on a show. He's gearing up for his big APLA extravaganza in Los Angeles next month, and he'll hit the road with a production worthy of Broadway -- and clothes that are more than a match for the schtick.
It was great to see. Mizrahi has had some tough going in recent seasons, and with this collection, he pulled everything together like the Isaac of old -- the energy, excitement, ideas, and the joy.
He started by turning the lights up behind a skrim, giving his audience a peak at what goes on backstage. But the real story was on the runway, where there was never a dull moment -- literally. He had said this collection would be "insane with color," and he wasn't kidding. He worked in the palette of a crazed artiste, mixing powder blue, cranberry, orange, aqua and a plethora of pinks -- poodle, pepto, powder and pez. Why be discreet when you're tossing striped or plaid silk taffeta down jackets -- so puffy they looked inflated -- over huge, hip-sitting ballskirts or floor-length fake "beast" coats over sequined nightgowns?
But it wasn't all the stuff of theatrics. This collection was filled with fabulous things to wear, right down to the most amusing boots in town. There were camel peacoats, pastel shearlings with sleeves on the fluffy side and rubberized tweed raincoats. He also showed little skating dresses and some of the best suits Isaac's done in years. Almost invariably, these had short skirts, often a full wool tulle tutu. But Mizrahi also dabbled in that new knee-covering length for a pair of kilts that looked fresher than their many mini relations.
Isaac didn't work all the kinks out of his production, for example, costumey corsets, dresses with pompons gone awry and others that looked just plain dowdy. But by and large, the man's got a hit on his hands.
As one of the most recognizable models in the world, Christy Turlington Burns has an insider’s view of the fashion industry and the allegations of sexual harassment swirling around it. “I can say that harassment and mistreatment have always been widely known and tolerated in the industry. The industry is surrounded by predators who thrive on the constant rejection and loneliness so many of us have experiences at some point in our careers,” Turlington told WWD, along with her suggestions for how the modeling world should protect younger women and men. Read more on WWD.com. Link in bio. (📷: Tony Palmieri) #wwdnews
@asics America has tapped a new brand ambassador: famed DJ/record producer @steveaoki. This initiative is intended to set the tone for the new brand identity and philosophy and will include partnerships with influencers and in-store and off-line activations that will continue into next year. This is Asics’ most significant marketing effort in two decades, and is expected to attract younger consumers to the brand. #wwdfashion
24-year-old Jean Prounis is redefining the rules of jewelry. Formerly a studio assistant to Jemima Kirke and a design apprentice at Ghuran, she focuses on handcrafted subtleties and ancient goldsmithing techniques. “There was a really sterile feel in the environment and I wanted to have jewelry with character that shapes how you wear it everyday,” Prounis said. Each piece is hand made in New York, either by Prounis or three other jewelers in the district. #wwdfashion
“These collections continue to build on that vision, empowering differently abled adults to express themselves through fashion,” said @tommyhilfiger of his line of adaptive apparel, which launches today. The line consists of 37 men’s and 34 women’s styles based upon the pieces from the spring Tommy Hilfiger sportswear collection. #wwdnews
“Stranger Things” is getting a new cast member for season 2. Meet @sadiesink_, the 15-year-old who will be joining the Netflix series for its new season. You may recognize her from “The Glass Castle” with Brie Larson and Woody Harrelson, but the Texas native’s next role goes in an entirely different direction. She describes her character, Max, as “a rough and tumble skater girl [who] becomes friends with the boys at school.” The second season debuts on October 27. (📷: @jgreenery) #wwdeye
Amid the Harvey Weinstein controversy, there’s another sector that’s being put under the spotlight for sexual abuse: the modeling industry. While rumors about abuse and sexual harassment of female and male models — and the photographers, agents and others who perpetrated it — have circulated within the fashion world for years, model @cameronrussell started posting stories from models on Instagram last week about abusive situations they’ve encountered — from sexual harassment and molestation to attempted rape. Over 75 have weighed in so far. Read more on WWD.com. Link in bio. #wwdnews
To celebrate its 16th anniversary, @dylanscandybar tapped designers and celebrities to create mosaics out of candy. The mosaics will be auctioned off to support the philanthropic cause of each participant’s choice. Pictured here is the mural created by @aliceandolivia's Stacey Bendet. For a first look at some of the other artwork being unveiled tonight, go to WWD.com. #wwdeye
The annual Veuve Clicquot Polo Classic in Pacific Palisades this weekend drew Kate Hudson, Tracee Ellis Ross, Laura Dern and more. See pictures of the star-studded event on WWD.com. (📷: @chelsealaurenla) #wwdeye
In his new book “Hollywood Royale,” Andy Warhol’s Protégé Matthew Rolston celebrates the Eighties revival of Hollywood glamour. Featuring more than 100 portraits taken by Rolston from 1977 to 1993, the book contains photos of icons like Michael Jackson, Cyndi Lauper, and @drewbarrymore, pictured here in 1991. “Hollywood Royale,” out today, will be accompanied by an exhibition opening at Los Angeles’ Fahey/Klein Gallery on March 1. #wwdeye