New York: all the World’s a Stage: Sir Ralph Goes a-Courting While Isaac Breaks a Leg
Ralph Lauren: On a Crusade
Ralph Lauren is into time travel -- English-style. Setting the mood with music from Orlando, he roamed the centuries, making stops from King Arthur's Court to an Edwardian stable. Nobody loves a kilt...
Ralph Lauren: On a CrusadeRalph Lauren is into time travel -- English-style. Setting the mood with music from Orlando, he roamed the centuries, making stops from King Arthur's Court to an Edwardian stable. Nobody loves a kilt more than Ralph. This time, he did them in mohair, decking his lassies in huge, furry plaids, often with matching jackets. But he also mixed the fabric with all sorts of other textures -- tweeds, Aran-inspired cables, suede and leather -- for sweaters, vests and jackets that were closed with kilt buckles and brightened with a crisp white ruff at the neck.Ralph went Edwardian with a sassy lineup of beautifully cut riding jackets and coachman's coats. These were in red and black, with occasional spots of fake cheetah.When Sir Ralph went a-courting, he did it with the gusto of a zealot on crusade and sometimes got a little too costumey. There were lace-up knights' tunics, leather breastplates, gold bullion cross and lion insignias, leather-trimmed Guinevere gowns, chain-mail sleeves on dresses, and metallic leather "armor" so authentic you could perch it on a horse at the Metropolitan Museum.Escada: Good SportsAfter a few difficult seasons, it looks like Escada is making a big push to reclaim its power position in the American market. And Tuesday's show was a double-barreled presentation, with the Escada line teamed up with the new and breezy Escada Sport collection.It's clear that Escada boss Wolfgang Ley is out to broaden his customer base, and the Sport collection is sure to attract a fresh, younger crop of fans. Cashmere sweats, plaid flannel shirts, hooded pullovers, blazers, jeans, quilted vests and peacoats were layered and styled with as much vitality as anything else in town. All commercially sound.What was strongest in the Escada collection designed by Michael Stolzenberg and his team were the short, snappy knit polo dresses under matching cardigans and a whole raft of coats -- from luxurious belted cashmeres to long, sweeping shearlings.The long evening numbers, however, seemed unnecessary and a bit jarring compared to the strong sportswear.Isaac Mizrahi: Mad About HueIsaac Mizrahi really knows how to put on a show. He's gearing up for his big APLA extravaganza in Los Angeles next month, and he'll hit the road with a production worthy of Broadway -- and clothes that are more than a match for the schtick.It was great to see. Mizrahi has had some tough going in recent seasons, and with this collection, he pulled everything together like the Isaac of old -- the energy, excitement, ideas, and the joy.He started by turning the lights up behind a skrim, giving his audience a peak at what goes on backstage. But the real story was on the runway, where there was never a dull moment -- literally. He had said this collection would be "insane with color," and he wasn't kidding. He worked in the palette of a crazed artiste, mixing powder blue, cranberry, orange, aqua and a plethora of pinks -- poodle, pepto, powder and pez. Why be discreet when you're tossing striped or plaid silk taffeta down jackets -- so puffy they looked inflated -- over huge, hip-sitting ballskirts or floor-length fake "beast" coats over sequined nightgowns?But it wasn't all the stuff of theatrics. This collection was filled with fabulous things to wear, right down to the most amusing boots in town. There were camel peacoats, pastel shearlings with sleeves on the fluffy side and rubberized tweed raincoats. He also showed little skating dresses and some of the best suits Isaac's done in years. Almost invariably, these had short skirts, often a full wool tulle tutu. But Mizrahi also dabbled in that new knee-covering length for a pair of kilts that looked fresher than their many mini relations.Isaac didn't work all the kinks out of his production, for example, costumey corsets, dresses with pompons gone awry and others that looked just plain dowdy. But by and large, the man's got a hit on his hands.
“I grew up in New York but I hadn’t really experienced the city in any type of touristy way…This was probably the first museum I really explored and took the time to see,” said @haileybaldwin of the @whitneymuseum. On Tuesday night, Baldwin was joined by Jemima Kirke and more at the annual Whitney Museum Gala and Studio Party, which honored Lorna Simpson, Joanne Leonhardt Cassullo and Beth Rudin DeWoody. See more photos on WWD.com. #wwdeye (📷: @lexieblacklock)
Displayed starting this week at the @fashiontextilemuseum: An exhibition on designer @orlakiely titled “Orla Kiely: A Life in Pattern,” which spans two decades and contains more than 150 pieces. “I want people to come away loving pattern and print. It’s something that makes you feel so good,” said the designer during a preview of the exhibit. Also on show are mood boards, samples, sketches and more. Head to WWD.com to see more photos. #wwdfashion
Exclusive: @dsquared2 signs fragrance licensing agreement with Euroitalia, with the first effort of the new partnership being unveiled in September. The brand will launch two scents – one for men and one for women – in Italy. Read our interview with designer Dean and Dan Caten on WWD.com. #wwdbeauty #wwdnews (📷: @zefashioninsider)
@louisvuitton has officially renewed Nicolas Ghesquière’s contract as artistic director of women's collections. "I am very pleased to open the next chapter of the story I started with Louis Vuitton almost 5 years ago," said Ghesquière, who first signed on to design the French luxury brand's women's line in 2013. Get all the details on WWD.com. #wwdnews #wwdfashion (📷: @giovanni_giannoni_photo)
“I learned then and there that I had to figure out a way in life to maintain and preserve my sense of pride when I felt good about what I did or what I represented or created,” said @saintrecords on how being bullied for wearing capri pants inspired her to be the artist she is today. Knowles was at the 70th Parsons Benefit last night where she outbid the room for a Dapper Dan customized @gucci experience. #wwdeye (📷: @lexieblacklock)
“There’s this amazing braintrust of people who know the whole universe so well. So we talked to them and they gave us more input,” said actor Alden Ehrenreich on playing the young Han Solo in “Solo: A Star Wars Story.” The cast was at NYC’s SVA Theatre last night for an advanced screening of the film, which hits theaters this week. #wwdeye #starwars #hansolo (📷: @aurorarosedecrosta)
@asaprocky spent nearly two hours in a Plexiglas box Sunday night at @sothebys putting himself through a series of “tests” to demonstrate the process of completing his new album called “Testing.” Get all the details and see all the pictures on WWD.com. #wwdeye
“I’ve struggled my whole life to find a bathing suit that fits me that doesn’t look like a maternity bra. I’m proud of the line because it’s an accurate representation of me rather than me putting on someone else’s clothes,” says @atlantabean of her swimwear collaboration with @piaarrobio, LPA X ATL. The two decided on a swimwear collab and increased the industry standard size for the pieces. Read more about the line — and our interview with de Cadenet Taylor and Arrobio — on WWD.com #wwdfashion (📷: Dan Doperalski)