A natural dyeing workshop at Manufacture New York.
NEW YORK – In advance of what will be the city’s first public presentation of proposed zoning changes for the Garment District on Wednesday, the New York City Economic Development Corporation has responded to a letter from elected Manhattan officials regarding the situation.Wednesday’s meeting is being organized by the Land Use Committee of Manhattan Community Board 5 and will be held at the SGI Cultural center at 7 East 15th Street. At play is about one million square feet that have been earmarked for apparel manufacturing and another one million set aside for support purposes. With Broadway and Seventh Avenue as the main throughways, the district runs from Fifth to Ninth Avenues stretching from 35th to 41st Streets. New York’s fashion industry sustains 900-plus companies generating $98 billion in annual revenues and creating more than 180,000 jobs.Several industry executives involved with preliminary discussions have voiced concern about initial suggestions that could lead to Manhattan manufacturing being transferred to Brooklyn. The $25 billion new Hudson Yards project under way and Penn Station’s $2 billion overhaul are two other factors that have some Garment Center tenants feeling hemmed in.NYCEDC president James Patchett has mapped out some of the city-led efforts in a letter dated March 17 to Manhattan Borough President Gale Brewer, U.S. Rep. Jerry Nadler (NY-10), State Senator Brad Hoylman, State Assembly Member Dick Gottfried, Council Member Corey Johnson, Manhattan Community Board 4 Chair Delores Rubin, and Manhattan Community Board 5 Chair Vikki Barbero. Patchett noted that over the past 18 months the city and the Council of Fashion Designers of America reached out to garment manufacturers, designers, showrooms/suppliers and industry leaders “to better understand the challenges the industry faces today and discuss practical, long-term solutions to address them.”In a letter to New York City Mayor Bill de Blasio dated Feb. 15, New York City Council member Carlos Menchaca, Congresswoman Nydia M. Velázquez, Nadler and Brooklyn Borough President Eric L. Adams noted that “we wish to better understand how the city will support Garment Center jobs in the Garment Center in Manhattan and how the $136 million ‘Made in New York’ campus at Bush Terminal will fit in with broader planning for Sunset Park especially South Brooklyn Marine Terminal and future port expansion.”Patchett’s response highlighted how interviewing and holding focus groups with more than 100 companies, individuals and industry organizations helped to identify:· Key barriers to operating in New York City, and especially the Garment District.· Information on New York City’s unique fashion ecosystem and supply chain.· Opportunities to support and fill critical gaps in the industry.· Interest in relocating or expanding to other fashion clusters.Brewer still voiced concern via e-mail Monday. “I’m glad the EDC is finally starting to reach out to more stakeholders and provide new information, but I remain concerned that this plan is half-baked. The garment and fashion industries in New York are an ecosystem, and many of these businesses thrive because they are within blocks of each other. Lifting the Garment Center’s zoning protections now, especially when much of the targeted Brooklyn space won’t be ready for years, is asking for a crisis.”To try to get a better understanding, city officials are meeting directly with additional garment manufacturers, fashion companies and other stakeholders “to ensure their input informs the continued development of the city’s initiative,” Patchett said. “The Garment Center remains the historic home of the fashion industry, and the city and industry expects that many manufacturing businesses will continue to flourish there. Today, there are approximately 830,000 square feet of garment manufacturing space located in the Garment District’s preservation areas. Through our outreach to date, we understand that manufacturers in the district are operating on varied lease terms, ranging from month-to-month to more than 10 years. For those manufacturing businesses that have been successful in the Garment Center, the city is exploring an expansion of our programs to help them stay competitive, and creating opportunities for them to expand. We are also exploring tools to help mitigate real estate pressure from competing uses like hotels.”But Patchett noted that for other manufacturers that have “struggled to find a stable real estate solution in the Garment Center,” the de Blasio administration has committed to “creating new, affordable space in city-owned assets in Sunset Park, which has organically become New York City’s second-largest garment manufacturing hub.”He pointed out that the Sunset Park neighborhood has 2.4 million square feet of available industrial space on the private market. After the $100 million-plus renovation of the Brooklyn Army Terminal, NYCEDC will have more than 500,000 square feet of industrial space available for lease starting this fall. NYCEDC, “as a mission-driven nonprofit entity, will offer garment manufacturers long-term leases at affordable rates in state-of-the-art newly renovated industrial buildings,” he said.Patchett also said that this is in advance of the city’s $136 million investment in 200,000 square feet of dedicated space for garment manufacturers at the Made in NY Campus at Bush Terminal, which is scheduled to come online in 2020. “We believe strongly that the way to ensure the Sunset Park waterfront remains an affordable, job-intensive industrial center is to invest in modern manufacturing spaces. We are proud of the work this administration has done to ensure that. We believe that garment manufacturing, a historic sector in the area, will fit well within Sunset Park’s industrial landscape well into the future,” he wrote.
In his new book “Hollywood Royale,” Andy Warhol’s Protégé Matthew Rolston celebrates the Eighties revival of Hollywood glamour. Featuring more than 100 portraits taken by Rolston from 1977 to 1993, the book contains photos of icons like Michael Jackson, Cyndi Lauper, and @drewbarrymore, pictured here in 1991. “Hollywood Royale,” out today, will be accompanied by an exhibition opening at Los Angeles’ Fahey/Klein Gallery on March 1. #wwdeye
"Nowadays when life is not so happy with everything going on in the world, I think people come to me for a little bit of whimsy and color and fun." - Designer Rebecca De Ravenel on her cult-favorite jewelry line. (📸 : @vsteves) #wwd40
“Everyone is talking about how the retail industry is struggling, but I think it’s an incredible time because brands who are doing something different and innovative are setting themselves up for the future,” said @adamgoldston, who founded the luxury athletic brand @apl with his brother @ryangoldsten. The Goldston’s are part of WWD’s 40 under 40: a group of industry notables. See the rest of the list on WWD.com. (📷: @vsteves) #wwd40
@eyeswoon blogger Athena Calderone debuted her first-ever cookbook, “Cook Beautiful,” which is heavily centered on the presentation and visual expression of food. Pictured here are her miso glazed carrots from the book. Get the recipe on WWD.com. (📷: @johnny_miller_) #wwdeye
“It’s passion that helps get anybody to a certain point and it’s what’s propelled me,” said Kith founder @ronniefieg, one of WWD’s 40 under 40: a group of industry notables who are changing the face of retail, fashion and beauty. Fieg, who opened a Manhattan flagship on October 7, began his career at age 13 as a stock boy and salesman for footwear chain David Z. “I think staying true to [my] beliefs, hard work and passion have gotten me to where [Kith] is today.” See the rest of the 40 at WWD.com. (📷: @vsteves) #wwd40
25-year-old @samweaving is about to break out this fall, starring in Netflix’s horror film “The Babysitter,” fittingly out today on Friday the 13th. That’s not the only place you’ll be seeing her, though — Weaving’s got a role Showtime’s “SMILF” and another alongside Frances McDormand and Woody Harrelson in “Three Billboards Outside Ebbing, Missouri.” Though she’s got a full plate at the moment, there’s one role she’s got her eye on: Marilyn Monroe. “I’m a little too young at the moment, but it’s on my bucket list,” the actress told WWD (📷: @dandoperalski) #wwdeye
BFF's Poppy Jamie and Suki Waterhouse celebrated the launch of their bag line Pop x Suki at Nordstrom last night. "The line is really about our friendship, and how we are so different but complement each other," said Waterhouse. 👯 (📷: Katie Jones) #wwdeye
After designing the new @louisvuitton and @bulgariofficial flagships and a @chanelofficial boutique opening in Japan, @petermarinoarchitect has another project on his plate: The Lobster Club. Located in the Seagram Building, it’s the famed architect’s first restaurant project in New York, serving up modern Japanese brasserie-style cuisine. Bronze hues, bespoke material detailing, blush and chartreuse tones and a heavy emphasis on Picasso can be seen throughout. Mark your calendars for Nov. 1 for the much-anticipated opening. (📷: @clint_spaulding) #wwdeye
Did you know: @carlychaikin of "Mr. Robot" has been painting for about a decade? The actress, who plays Darlene on the show, is a self-taught artist who lists Salvador Dalí and Chuck Close as some of her idols. Chaikin told WWD that painting is a form of meditation for her — A much-needed one given the intensity of "Mr. Robot." See a piece Chaikin is working on at WWD.com (📷: @jilliansollazzo) #wwdeye