On Thursday, the runways came alive with hip preppies at Christian Francis Roth, high-voltage bohemians at Todd Oldham and enough mohair to bring on a sneezing fit.

Christian Francis Roth: Co-Ed Cool

Christian Francis Roth is back to making the kind of clothes that are perfect for all those girls who've graduated from Spence and Chapin. Let's just hope they didn't graduate too long ago. Roth's show was cute and exuberant with lots of young, spirited ideas, like ultra-short plaid kilts, puffy down parkas and little cashmere sweaters. And at $250 for a kilt and $500 for a parka, his retail prices are back in the ballpark. Roth is onto something.

Nicole Miller: Future Frock

Nicole Miller may still be design diva to the club-crawling set, but for fall, she turned down her steam a few degrees. Her skirts were short but not cheeky, and there's wasn't a bare breast in sight.

The main messages of this collection were a tight-bodiced silhouette with a flirty skirt, and high tech fabrics in plays of color against black. Second-skin quasar print Lycra T-shirts -- equal parts Star Trek and downhill racer -- went with gray flannel suits or jumpers; bright Polartec twin sets topped black metallic Lycra pleated skirts. Not one to pass up a hot trend, Miller also had her way with mohair, in oh-so-sweet sweaters over little silk skating skirts or shorts.

For evening, Nicole sang a siren song. She ditched her black crepe cocktail shakers and replaced them with gowns in raisin or gunmetal matte jersey with velvet touches.

Mark Eisen: The Spare Minimum

Mark Eisen continued on his minimal pilgrimage for fall, churning out another collection of spare suits and simple little dresses that stores like Barneys can't get enough of. It was a pretty lackluster show, but what stood out in the sea of black and charcoal was a group of neon brights, especially the orange mohair short-skirted suit and classic trenchcoat over a ribbed dress. The unflattering makeup created by Francois Nars certainly didn't help. With bronzed, greasy faces and blood-colored lips, models like Bridget Hall, Amber and Niki Taylor were hardly recognizable.

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