On Thursday, the runways came alive with hip preppies at Christian Francis Roth, high-voltage bohemians at Todd Oldham and enough mohair to bring on a sneezing fit.
Christian Francis Roth: Co-Ed Cool
Christian Francis Roth is back to making the kind of clothes that are perfect for all those girls who've graduated from Spence and Chapin. Let's just hope they didn't graduate too long ago. Roth's show was cute and exuberant with lots of young, spirited ideas, like ultra-short plaid kilts, puffy down parkas and little cashmere sweaters. And at $250 for a kilt and $500 for a parka, his retail prices are back in the ballpark. Roth is onto something.
Nicole Miller: Future Frock
Nicole Miller may still be design diva to the club-crawling set, but for fall, she turned down her steam a few degrees. Her skirts were short but not cheeky, and there's wasn't a bare breast in sight.
The main messages of this collection were a tight-bodiced silhouette with a flirty skirt, and high tech fabrics in plays of color against black. Second-skin quasar print Lycra T-shirts -- equal parts Star Trek and downhill racer -- went with gray flannel suits or jumpers; bright Polartec twin sets topped black metallic Lycra pleated skirts. Not one to pass up a hot trend, Miller also had her way with mohair, in oh-so-sweet sweaters over little silk skating skirts or shorts.
For evening, Nicole sang a siren song. She ditched her black crepe cocktail shakers and replaced them with gowns in raisin or gunmetal matte jersey with velvet touches.
Mark Eisen: The Spare Minimum
Mark Eisen continued on his minimal pilgrimage for fall, churning out another collection of spare suits and simple little dresses that stores like Barneys can't get enough of. It was a pretty lackluster show, but what stood out in the sea of black and charcoal was a group of neon brights, especially the orange mohair short-skirted suit and classic trenchcoat over a ribbed dress. The unflattering makeup created by Francois Nars certainly didn't help. With bronzed, greasy faces and blood-colored lips, models like Bridget Hall, Amber and Niki Taylor were hardly recognizable.Todd Oldham: The New Bohemian
Finally, a fashion happening -- New York style. Todd Oldham's show on Thursday night offered the first bona fide star sightings we've seen here, unless you count Margot Hemingway and Ginger from Gilligan's Island, who checked in at other collections.
Mariah Carey, Jaye Davidson, Kate Pierson and Monica Lynch turned out for Todd, as well as a sans-drag Ru Paul (he's balding and had a little chin stubble). So what, you say? They were just the warmups. When Todd's pal Susan Sarandon showed Julia Roberts to her seat, it caused a paparazzi flash-bulb frenzy worthy of Altman himself. Julia looked absolutely stunned, while right behind her, Ellen Barkin went virtually unnoticed.
Happily, Todd's runway lived up to his audience. These are clothes for girls who want to be noticed, and how. But this was no Sparkle-and-Strut-Your-T & A Follies. Now, Oldham is into bohemian glamour, and he played it for all it was worth, from the snow-maiden hair jewels and 20-karat "diamond" rings right down to the satin ankle boots with multicolor gems set into Lucite heels. The supermodel roster didn't hurt either; Todd even snagged Stephanie Seymour, who rarely steps onto the runway these days.
Oldham's biggest points were siren dresses, prints and of course, color, color, color. He did it in red, yellow and painted plaid velvets, Lifesaver-striped cropped sweaters and bugle-beaded fair-isle pants. And in a season of fake fur, Oldham's the biggest faker around, with gigantic "bear hug" coats that could melt the coldest heart.
Sure there was a Gaultier-ish jacket, and a nod or two to Chloe. But for the most part, it was Todd at his bohemian best.
Byron Lars: Tribal Rights
Byron Lars knows how to wake up a crowd, and this season he did it with conga drums and a collection that was intended as a fun journey through Africa. Only Byron would send pinstripes, fake furs and tweeds off to the jungle. But the over-the-top styling -- huge mask handbags, braided headdresses, feathers and tribal makeup -- just got in the way of his trim suits, jumper dresses and familiar draping. In fact, Lars was so lost in his African theme that the collection rambled. But what did stand out in Byron's jungle were his dramatic fake fur coats with sweeping trains.Rodney Telford: Short Circuit
In his first formal runway show, Rodney Telford displayed his talent for fine tailoring. He shaped long jackets with intricate seaming, pleats, precisely placed buttons and special collar details -- and they were terrific. But what he paired them with -- skimpy shorts cut like swimsuits and almost-indecent micros -- were out of character in Telford's pricy collection. A nice surprise were his mohairs: airy, loosely knit cropped pullovers and minidresses in a rich tweedy palette.
There'll be no rest for those headed to Europe for men's, as Paris just closed the gap with Milan. According to a provisional calendar released by the Chambre Syndicale, Paris Men's Week will now open a day earlier on January 16. See new highlights on the official lineup on WWD.com. #wwdnews #wwdfashion (📷: @kukukuba)
BREAKING: Jonathan Saunders is leaving @DVF. The designer has resigned from his position as chief creative officer of Diane von Furstenberg, the company said in a statement on Friday. At the time of his hire, von Furstenberg said Saunders’ arrival symbolized and facilitated her stepping back from the day-to-day duties that occupy the work of a full-time creative director. The British designer joined DVF in May 2016 and was in charge of all product categories. #wwdnews
For @versace_official’s spring ad campaign, the brand emphasized the archival prints from the spring tribute collection dedicated to the late Gianni Versace. Closing out the show were five of Gianni’s favorite models: Cindy, Naomi, Carla, Helena, and Claudia. Bowing on December 18, the new campaign is yet another tribute to supermodel-dom as the images by Steven Meisel are fronted by @iamnaomicampbell, @cturlington, @gisele and more. #wwdfashion
Four-time Oscar-nominated actress Annette Bening has been waiting 20 years to play Gloria Graham in "Film Stars Don't Die in Liverpool," which will be released on December 29. The movie about Graham – a Hollywood star known for her controversial relationship with a younger Englishman named Peter Turner – is based off a memoir Turned wrote. "She felt vulnerable to him, because she loved him, she really did love him. And anyone that we really truly are in love with, we re vulnerable to in a very deep way," said Bening. Read our full interview with the modern icon of an actress on WWD.com. #wwdeye (📷: @ninebagatelles; Styled by @cristinaehrlich)
The crisp white button down: a staple that can be dressed up or down and accessorized throughout the decades. Here, on a Art Basel-goer in 2017 on the left and on the iconic Audrey Hepburn in “Roman Holiday” in 1953 on the right. #tbt #wwdfashion (📷: Andrew Morales)
Known for her work with @victoriassecret, 25-year-old model @georgiafowler is raising her profile in Hollywood. Fowler stars in @vincecamuto’s holiday campaign, which launched in partnership with “Pitch Perfect 3.” “Almost every shoot with Vince Camuto, I’ve had to face a fear…It was definitely a challenge. I’m so grateful for it, though. I’ve always wanted to be a pop star, so that was the perfect chance,” Fowler said. Head to WWD.com to read about Fowler’s experience modeling, including at the #VSFashionShow, and her relationship with Nick Jonas. #wwdeye (📷: @jilliansollazzo)
EXCLUSIVE: Huda Kattan just became the first beauty influencer to land a major beauty deal. Kattan's business, @hudabeauty, has received a minority investment from private equity firm TSG Consumer Partners. The brand, which industry sources say is on track to do $200 million in retail sales for 2017, will receive support on product, retail and geographic expansion through the deal. Get all the details on the deal and read @_a_collins' interview with Kattan on WWD.com. Link in bio. (📷: @jgreenery) #wwdbeauty #wwdnews
Peruvian model @juanaburga_official – who is known for walking the runways of @rodarte, @viviennewestwood and @torybuch – is making the move to the big screen with drama “Los Últimos.” The film premiered in Argentina in November and arrives in the U.S. and Europe in 2018. On making the switch from modeling to acting, Burga told WWD: “It’s a completely different thing – a lot of people think it’s similar or try to connect things, especially like getting used to the camera or being looked at all the time or playing these different characrers, but film is a completely different story.” #wwdeye (📷: @jgreenery)
London’s newly opened @designmuseum will look back on the life and work of Azzedine Alaïa in a show that the designer helped to curate before he died of heart failure last month. The retrospective, which Alaïa had worked on with Mark Wilson, chief curator of the @groningermuseum, will look at the impact of his work worldwide. The show, “Azzedine Alaïa: The Couturier,” will run from May 10 to October 7. Read more about the exhibit on WWD.com #wwdnews #wwdfashion (📷: @zefashioninsider)