From A to Z, a round-up of the WWD’s designer reviews from New York City’s Fall Fashion Week 2006.
3.1 Phillip Lim
A La Disposition
Lynda and Daniel Kinne channeled a sexy downtown secretary with a pulled-together collection of pretty blouses and high-waisted skirts, which, though appealing, were sometimes ill-fitting.
To view A La Disposition’s full collection, click here.
Laura Poretzky tapped into a Seventies jet-set lifestyle for spring, but naming looks after key figures of the era — Bowie, Anita, Hutton and Birkin — wasn’t enough for this series of humdrum Indian Summer dresses.
To view Abaeté’s full collection, click here.
A little laid-back, a little luxe. So it went in Adam Lippes’ adorably beachy-fresh collection that mixed gauzy and crisp cottons with glitzier taffetas and satins.
To view Adam+Eve’s full collection, click here.
To the R&B sounds of a live performance by N’Dea Davenport of the Brand New Heavies, Afshin Feiz’s spring models strutted in well-tailored suits and ultrafeminine dresses in muted tones worthy of the polo grounds.
Known mainly for his cashmere knits, Alexander Wang made an impressive push into a full collection of uncluttered looks — skinny pants, straight shifts, swingy jackets — that turned cool-girl clothes into items worthy of retail attention.
To view Alexander Wang’s full collection, click here.
Not everyone can live in the primary-colored world of Alexandre Herchcovitch, replete with dizzyingly printed frocks and tops and all-beaded black-and-white numbers.
Alice and Olivia
In addition to her typical lineup of terrific pants, Stacey Bendet presented plenty of fun-filled summerwear, some elegantly draped and ombréd, others with a cute-girl touch of Sixties Mod.
Retail heavyweights — Barneys, Kirna Zabete, Neiman Marcus, Colette — and important editors made it to Alice Ritter’s very covetable collection, which drew on her perennial inspiration of the Gallic, girlish chic of the Sixties with swingy tiered pinafores, trapeze coats and refreshing slimmer silhouettes.
To view Alice Ritter’s full collection, click here.
Continuing the polished punk thread she began last season, Alice Roi mixed up her tweaked classics — jodhpurs, tailored jackets, jumper dresses — in a restrained palette of mostly whites and neutrals punctuated by a fresh boxed paisley print.
While this was a collection of pretty young things — pleated and lacy tops, minidresses and skirts — there was too much repetition and too little innovation.
New designer Angel Chang showed an inventive, albeit quirky, seven-piece collection geared toward the technology-savvy modern woman — hence the trenchcoat with battery-operated lights and tops with built-in iPod holders.
Extending his bridal sensibility, Angel Sanchez showed flirty cocktail dresses and gowns with a natural, organic vibe and lots of jute embroidery.
To view Angel Sanchez’s full collection, click here.
With a gentle, effortless, nod to her lingerie origins, Araks Yeramyan showed a beautifully made collection of light layers and delicately printed cottons.
To view Araks’ full collection, click here.
Toronto-based Arthur Mendonca showed a lovely collection of soft, airy daywear with a prairie girl-hippie twist, all done in a gentle palette of clay and mauve.
To view Arthur Mendonca’s full collection, click here.
Alvin Valley – As Is
For his new contemporary line, Alvin Valley made a decent effort with looks that were proper and refined, yet youthful enough for the downtown girl.
To view Alvin Valley’s full collection, click here
Ashish N Soni
Ashish Soni reined in the tricky looks of past seasons and showed some truly covetable pieces: tent dresses and skirts in cotton voile and interesting architectural blouses in gorgeous Indian fabrics.
A pretty leather jacket or two and a good-looking, long linen jacket over a short cotton shirtdress were not enough to save Atil Kotoglu’s random, sometimes gaudy collection.
To view Atil Kotoglu’s full collection, click here.
Still under-the-radar designer Barbara Tfank gave her elegant, vintage-inflected collection an Eastern flair, à la Wong Kar-Wai’s film “In the Mood for Love.”
Canadian sisters Caillianne, Samantha and Chloe Beckerman twisted things up for spring with a playful collection of girly dresses and biker-inspired separates — perfect for the quirky hipster.
After a three-season hiatus, Benjamin Cho is back, exercising some of the wit and imagination he displayed when he started — a crafty use of zippers as sailor stripes on a white blouse or the trenches that deconstructed into dresses.
Brian Reyes continued to cultivate his ladylike aesthetic with sophisticated takes on loose shifts or his favorite silhouette: constricted on top and becomingly pouffed below.
To view Brian Reyes’ full collection, click here.
Carlos Miele channeled Brazil, his home turf, with flirty jeweled numbers and floor-sweeping gowns in bright, powerful colors.
To view Carlos Miele’s full collection, click here.
While their airy ombré tunics prettily floated by, Jeff Mahshie and Julie Chaiken played it too safe elsewhere with simple colors and silhouettes.
To view Chaiken’s full collection, click here.
Charles Nolan headed to East Egg for spring with glamorous looks that were young and casual, especially the sexy and crisp seersucker suit.
While she delivered her usual adorable, wearable clothes — like the bright pink dress with an Eighties print — Charlotte Ronson showed a collection that was quite reminiscent of her previous ones, leaving us longing for a little evolution.
Cia.Marítima by Benny Rosset
Benny Rosset picked up inspiration on his trip to the beaches of Brazil, and brought back a sexy offering of beachwear and light dresses in bold floral and tribal prints.
To view Cia.Marítima’s full collection, click here.
Converse by John Varvatos
Playing to the struggling artist, John Varvatos turned out comfy pieces with a cool, lived-in look.
Jeffrey Costello and Robert Tagliapietra again proved their deft hand, but this time the duo coaxed the same fluid ease from more constructed fare.
To view Costello Tagliapietra’s full collection, click here
The Sixties met the Eighties at Custo Barcelona with a color explosion of geometric prints piled on top of each other and often worn over logo jeans — a combination that was too much.
The designer pulled out her favorite vintage cardigans and scarves, spun them into floaty dresses and embellished them to a fare-thee-well.
To view Cynthia Rose’s full collection, click here.
Along with her usual career gear, Dana Buchman focused on dresses and slim pants with long tops — looks that she claims “real women outside of fashion can wear.” And, indeed, she cut them for those women with an emphasis on tactile fabrics and crafty knits.
Inspired by vintage, Stephanie Doucette and Annebet Duvall offered a small collection of easy, unpretentious dresses and trenches that one only dreams about finding at a flea market.
To view Doucette Duvall’s full collection, click here.
Douglas Hannant shaved decades off his usually more mature day suits and cocktail dresses, this time rendered in very short lengths and pretty girly shapes.
Oh so pretty was Erin Fetherston’s New York debut, where she delivered a number of sweetly enchanting floral dresses — and a few nicely tailored looks to boot.
Every girl needs a sexy dress and there were plenty of them at Esteban Cortazar in solid black or bright graphic florals, though his structured suiting was at best too tight.
To view Esteban Cortazar’s full collection, click here.
While she’s been shunning formal presentations for several years, Gemma Kahng is back and stronger than ever with her romantic Victorian collection filled with beautiful ruffles and lace.
Concentrating on one-piece suits, designer Gideon Oberson hit key swim trends, including exaggerated cutouts and subtle tropical prints, but the abundant peekaboo mesh and bondage-inspired numbers looked more call girl than beach babe.
To view Gottex’s full collection, click here.
Though Gregory Parkinson’s spring collection veered toward the offbeat with intense color and fabric combinations, it was nonetheless right for uptown girls looking for something quirky yet chic.
The Divine Ms. M, circa 1976, inspired the very cool and wearable high-waisted jeans and slinky bodysuits that Angeleno Grant Krajecki sent out between dance breaks from the aptly named Hysterica Dance Team.
Short, sleek and simple was the only way things worked in Gustavo Arango’s collection, which was otherwise overloaded with layers or tricky shapes.
To view Gustavo Arango’s full collection, click here.
Love was in the air as Hanuk Kim sent out a lineup of flirtatious, yet wearable dresses in a deep red palette.
Paris and Nicky and Mya oh my — those were just a few of the celebs who strutted for Richie Rich and Traver Raines’ “Pirates of the Caribbean”-inspired collection, which included spangled dresses meshed with scull-printed Ts and denim shorts.
Holly Dunlap showed a more relaxed collection — she even lowered her price points — of quintessential après-beach pieces perfect for anywhere from Santa Monica to Saint-Tropez.
In a muted earth-tone palette, Nelson and Sisi Li showed a supersimple collection of linen and cotton pieces with sublime touches of shimmer.
To view Iisli’s full collection, click here.
Imitation of Christ
Tara Subkoff’s vintage gold jewelry, designed with Scarlett Johansson, couldn’t spice up the unremarkable reworks of Japanese fabrics and sweats at Imitation of Christ.
To view Imitation of Christ’s full collection, click here.
Garden party frocks and cardigans, many in candy pastels, abounded in James Coviello’s prim collection.
To view James Coviello’s full collection, click here.
His lackluster day looks aside, Jason Wu showed a pretty lineup of cocktail and evening numbers in tailored satin and layered tulle – sure to make some red-carpet showings.
“Project Runway” alum — and winner — Jay McCarroll’s first solo collection was a lively blast of Sixties Mod-inspired color and graphics on playfully bold pieces.
Despite a slightly schizophrenic tangent of beachy looks — cardigans over printed swimwear — Jenni Kayne showed an elegant collection filled with gimmick-free swingy plissé dresses, Grecian gowns and leather coats.
Jeremy Laing’s well-focused collection of structural pieces — many with seaming and smocking details — was presented in a mostly neutral palette but peppered with a strong, supersized gingham.
It’s the right season for Jeremy Scott’s easy T-shirt dresses and sexy swimwear, but whether anyone wants to wear them in a gun-toting teddy bear print remains to be seen.
Dramatic gowns, Joanna Mastroianni hallmarks, were paired with larger-than-life wraps, but it was her sleeker looks — especially the jersey bare-backed beauty — that scored.
Josh Goot delivered a delightful, clean collection that looked downright comfy in his signature cotton jersey.
To view Josh Goot’s full collection, click here.
Milla Jovovich and Camilla Hawk, who know what appeals to the girl-about-town, offered up plenty of sweet party frocks with a vintage feel.
Juan Carlos Obando
In his first New York foray, L.A.-based Juan Carlos Obando offset a prettily polished collection with crafty, homespun details and, most notably, costume jewelry he has reproduced from his grandmother’s collection.
Kai Kuhne – Myself
Thankfully, Kai Kuhne toned down the aggression of his Eighties-inspired silhouettes without giving up his penchant for avant-garde volume, demonstrated through draping, folding and pleating.
In a big improvement over last season’s lengthy runway show, Kai Milla offered a fresh and well-edited spring collection, including wide-leg linen trousers and elegant day dresses in gauze with cotton embroidery.
Inspired by Forties war gardens, Karen Walker offered a louche and charming wardrobe for latter-day Victory Girls that was both sweet and tongue-in-cheek.
To view Karen Walker’s full collection, click here.
Christophe Lemaire’s inventive, 1930s French Riviera-inspired collection gave a modern edge to the company’s sporty traditions with enlarged sweaters and long pleated white jersey skirts.
Some of the strongest looks in Lewis A. Remele’s Buenos Aires-inspired collection were swingy, sweet dresses that mixed linen or wool with a charming point d’esprit.
To view Lewis Albert’s full collection, click here.
Puerto Rican designer Lisa Thon channeled some of that Latin island savoir faire into breezy dresses in a dusty palette of rose, peach and cream, throwing in a splash of hot red here and there.
With a soundtrack that ran from Chordette’s “Lollipop” to Sam Cooke’s “Sugar Dumpling,” Luca Orlandi delivered a black-and-white confection of girly frocks that showed improvement over last season’s offerings. Fresh youth was the order of the day, combined with an undercurrent of casual that paired simple ribbed tanks and Ts with pintucked organza skirts.
Lyn Devon expanded on her repertoire of pretty, earthy dresses for spring, adding well-crafted, structured pieces such as high-waisted skirts and jackets that featured beautiful seaming details.
Austin Powers couldn’t have made this collection any groovier, as Robert Rimondi and Tommaso Aquilano infused it with Sixties’ shapes and attitude, proving there’s more to the brand than just cashmere.
While the women’s looks lacked the sophistication of the men’s, Manuel Cuevas showed his deft tailoring skills with a group of great-fitting jackets, especially a cropped version in metallic leather.
MarieMarie designers Jada Marie Simons and Alicia Marie Arena expanded their lineup of jersey tops this season with a very wearable selection of beautiful evening options and separates.
To view MarieMarie’s full collection, click here
Mary Ping delivered her usual quirky pieces appropriate for the downtown girl — simple shift dresses, tops and skirts — but this collection was indistinguishable from previous seasons, and Ping would benefit from a new direction or theme.
Milly by Michelle Smith
Michelle Smith may have taken her Sixties beach babe inspiration too literally, but nonetheless, there was enough cute summer merch here to delight the latter-day Gidget.
Stephanie Schur went for “relaxed glamour” in a soft, pretty collection filled with delicately detailed dresses and a great baggy pant-and-lace blouse look — all sure to satisfy front-row fans such as Kirsten Dunst and Mischa Barton.
Naeem Khan’s richly conceived collection filled with luxurious fabrics set the gold standard for those girls who are equally rich in taste — and bank accounts.
Attention pinup gals, Nanette has got your number this season with pretty lace boudoir jackets, boldly patterned corset dresses and plenty of her signature embroidery.
DVF creative director Nathan Jenden continued to develop his own vision for his eponymous line with nice tailored numbers and dramatic, voluminous frocks, all with a slight “Heart of Darkness” undercurrent that speaks to the adventuress in every girl.
Waleed Khairzada and Julia Jentzsch demonstrated restraint and imagination with their great collection of airy layers, where voluminous white shirts and long skirts mixed with superbly cut pants and jackets in shades of gray.
To view Naum’s full collection, click here.
Known for his drapey cotton jersey tops and dresses, Neal Sperling worked chic, clean looks in his customary fabric while forging ahead with a smattering of great jackets that were sleek in washed leather and girlish with smocked necks.
To view Neal Sperling’s full collection, click here.
With his small, eco-friendly collection, John Patrick combined the crunchy concept with a nice dose of fashion in charming eyelet dresses, sexy hand-knit sheaths and fluid linen pants.
Inspired by the French Court at the end of the 18th century, sisters Kathy and Lindy Jones sent out a spectacular group of looks, all with an aristocratic bent.
While she continued with her often too-stiff cocktail dresses, this season Pamella Roland went sportier and younger with soft ombréd looks and T-shirt dresses.
In a small, quiet collection, Patrik Rzepski’s subtle manipulations of basic cotton and jersey offered surprising intrigue.
Peter Hidalgo eschewed the season’s tent silhouette in favor of more soigné looks reminiscent of Rita Hayworth but with a fresh, modern edge.
Inspired by Deborah Turbeville’s dreamscape photographs, among other things, Andreas Melbostad sent out a collection of frothy, layered boudoir looks, many of which were delicately pleated, ruched or smocked.
Targeting the everyday girl, Rachel Comey used scores of delightful prints — plaids, abstract florals and stripes — fashioned into airy, wearable layers.
To view Rachel Comey’s full collection, click here
Rag & Bone
To unfailingly cool effect, Marcus Wainright and David Neville mixed men’s wear hallmarks such as impeccable, sharp-shouldered jackets with more feminine fare, from baby dolls to body-hugging skirt suits.
Redux Charles Chang-Lima
Already known for pretty, wearable day clothes, Charles Chang-Lima has moved into evening with Redux, a diversified collection of designer-priced dresses that are charming and decorated with ribbons and flower appliqués.
In his latest adorable effort, Jose Ramon Réyes pulled together structured tops, shorts and A-line frocks for puckish girls who will surely go for his preppy striped linens and cottons punched up with punk zippers and grommets.
Rock & Republic
Designer and ceo Michael Ball’s coming-out party for the denim firm’s expansion into lifestyle looks featured wearable, if predictable, logoed suits (as well as luggage, shoes and bags) and a heady dose of their requisite denim.
To view Rock & Republic’s full collection, click here.
Carin Rodebjer sent out a variety of wonderfully sexy librarian looks that were neat and feminine — most notably her yellow plaid cropped jacket and fluid dress.
To view Rodebjer’s full collection, click here.
In his traditionally saucy South American swimwear line, Amir Slama cooled things off for spring using softer colors and touches of lace.
Brian Wolk and Claude Morais hit the right light, young notes: trim jackets, tailored shorts, mod shifts and that want-worthy, pleated trench in cherry red.
Rushkin by Victor de Souza
Victor de Souza sent out a snappy, playful lineup reminiscent of uniforms when uniforms were chic: crisp, tailored separates as well as standout dresses.
Sabyasachi Mukherjee sent out a blockbuster collection that was part Frida Kahlo, part bookish chic and all about opulence.
Though Michael Carbaugh played with many of the season’s themes — volume, boxy proportions — he did so with a dark, edgy-chic sensibility that gave a nod to the Belgians and Eighties punk star Siouxsie Sioux.
With pale, gauzy looks and a modicum of ruffles, Sari Gueron sent out a collection that was at once earthy, dreamy and elegant.
Sass & Bide
Sarah-Jane Clarke and Heidi Middleton curbed some of their more enthusiastic styling in favor of swingy draped jersey frocks and skirts, some with contrast bindings, but some looks were marred by those unflattering poufs around the hips.
Secrets of Charm
While sister designers Sharon and Estee Elkayam’s Secrets of Charm collection featured some fresh, organic prairie blouses and rompers, the lineup overall didn’t offer anything beyond the usual separates one typically finds in the already crowded contemporary market.
Staerk by Camilla Staerk
In a well-edited tableau presentation, Camilla Staerk showed a refreshing lineup full of ease and playful innocence, where even the latex underpinnings came in charming pastels.
Putting a decidedly sophisticated spin on her party-girl favorites, Sue Stemp showed more wearable looks, such as a fringed crochet top with little shorts.
Tempering her usual urge to decorate, Alice Temperley showed a strong collection of safari-inspired numbers. She seamed, pintucked and ruched many of her looks — the strongest of which were short dresses.
Inspired by the colors of the Greek isles, Edoardo Mantelli turned out sophisticated day dresses and separates that evoked charm and calm.
In their most polished effort to date, Adi, Ange and Gabi refined their particular brand of circular cutting with an excellent collection of fluid jersey tops and dresses.
Amy Smilovic placed bright Sixties patterns — bold squares and kaleidoscopes — on slim silhouettes, creating a refreshing, airy mix for both day and night.
In a gentle palette of white and neutrals, Toni Maticevski worked a range of pretty dresses from stylishly minimal ones to deconstructed numbers, which occasionally veered too far over the top.
Nautical clothing — and props — set the stage at Trovata, where Jeff Halmos, John Whitledge and Sam Shipley showed a great lineup of mostly red, white and navy looks.
Twinkle by Wenlan
Wenlan Chia’s collection was a cornucopia of fashion treats — light, fun dresses and chic summer separates in exuberant prints.
Effortless cool was the name of the game at United Bamboo, where Miho Aoki and Thuy Pham added nautical touches to easy wide-leg pants, double-breasted jackets and jumper dresses.
Kati Stern exchanged her usual dark corsetry for a softer side, allowing her to capture fluidity, movement and a little bit of fun.
Fresh fabrics such as marine-style striped cotton and dotted white chiffon lightened up Ashleigh Verrier’s ladylike fare, which looked best when shown without excessive detail.
To view Verrier’s full collection, click here.
VPL by Victoria Bartlett
Victoria Bartlett’s water-inspired collection for spring was effortlessly cool, featuring fluid sportswear and edgy dresses.
To view VPL’s full collection, click here.
Kit Willow delighted many with a nod to gentile dressing by way of light-as-air pintucked cotton frocks that were prim but never prissy.
To view Willow’s full collection, click here.
Y & Kei
There was something altogether ethereal about Hanii Y and Gene Kei’s spring wardrobe with its mostly white palette and light pleated and bowed touches, making for a polished, ladylike collection.
To view Y & Kei’s full collection, click here.
Yohji Yamamoto showed some terrific tailored pieces at Y-3, but there was something decidedly Yohji to it as well, with more than one riff on his signature line.
As always, Zang Toi delivered luxurious clothes full of drama and opulence, perfect looks for opening-night festivities at the Metropolitan Opera.
Stay tuned for more reviews on WWD.com.