If you missed them in Europe, you can catch them here. And on New York's opening day, out trotted the plaids, shearlings, kilts, boots, neon brights, minis and micros.

DKNY: Mixed Blessing

Styling is destiny -- at least in fashion these days. And no one understands that better than Donna Karan. Her DKNY show Wednesday morning -- or at least the first half of it -- was a testimony to the importance of getting just the right mix. At her best, Donna is a master at combining the hip with the commercial, and her runway was full of perky plaids, dapper riding habits, flippy skirts and shearling coats to kill for. She also staked early claim to what just might be the smartest commercial crossover from the avant-garde in many a fashion moon: the knee-grazing skirt. And amidst all this splendor, Donna staged a mini-revival of the party dress, in everything from plaid taffeta to scuba stretch Neoprene.

Editing is also destiny, especially on the first day of the season. Here, Donna could use some practice. She's a woman of a billion ideas -- some of which ring familiar -- and some of which should be saved for another day. But Karan's excesses are in synch with her enthusiasm. And clearly, she is continuing to channel that energy toward an increasingly sophisticated DKNY that's come a long way from its original ragamuffin wiles -- a point made with the clothes and on the soundtrack. Donna opened and closed the show with Aretha Franklin's "Pride," an obvious ode to her most important customer: "I get up out of bed and put on my clothes 'cause I've got bills to pay."

Adrienne Vittadini: Safe Haven

It's not easy being the designer to open the season, but sweater queen Adrienne Vittadini accepted the challenge Wednesday morning. And she was off to an encouraging start, with a lively blend of plaids, argyles and black leather that gave a hip twist to her classic preppies. Next came Vittadini's texture mixes -- the strongest element of the show -- in combinations like shearling vests or jackets over natural nubby knits, fringed sweaters and short brown leather skirts. Vittadini showed her sure, safe hand with knits in a series of ribbed cardigan coats over matching dresses and cropped twin sets over neon-bright minis. But those knitting needles were working overtime, and the repetitious parade of antiseptic knits dragged on too long.

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