Michael Kors is a man with a minimalist point of view, and he knows how to deliver it. In the collection he showed Monday, he stayed true to his beloved camel hair, leather and flannel, this time shaping them into smart little trench and peacoats, chic day suits with A-line skirts and the smartest little mini-shift in town. He revved up his hot classics with a few leopard-printed velvet numbers that had all the class and dash one wants from Kors. He dressed his girls like ladies in suede stiletto-heeled Manolos and gloves, dyed to match the ice-cream-colored cashmere turtlenecks and Ts. But are they brave enough to face fall with bare legs as Kors showed them?
The show, held in an overheated West Side studio, began to lose its pep with the pinstriped and whipcord groups, which were nice but lacked snap, and the evening pieces, which were too repetitive. But the chocolate matte jersey tie-front column on Helena Christensen was a knockout.
Anna Sui: The Girl Who Has Everything
It was happy fashion mayhem. And Anna Sui played it for all it was worth to the delight of the hippest, highest-profile crowd in New York. Thurston Moore, Kim Gordon, Vanessa Williams, Lady Miss Kier and Bjork all turned out, as well as two generations of Coppolas -- Sofia and her dad, who looked so of-the-moment in his tuxedo sans tie.
And none of them came to rest their eyes. When Anna puts on a show, she goes all the way. The girl doesn't know from discretion. This was a wild, raucous romp that was filled with ideas -- not to mention every big trend, small trend and sorta trend to hit the runways this fall. And it wasn't perfect. But when you're tossing fake fur, feathers, mohair, plaids, popcorn knits, vinyl, rubber, pompon trims and plastic chains into a neon fashion stew, perfection probably isn't a realistic goal in the first place.
Anna would rather have fun -- goofs and all. She did it with cheerleaders in quilted jackets and rah-rah skirts, ski togs in white or black with body-gripping bright rubber tops, and the hottest sweaters around, all cables, knots and silly appliques. She did her part for Rescue Chic with a black fireman's coat trimmed in reflective tape, and Anna not only went to town with orange, she explained New York's chronic fascination with the color: "This winter was so cold, people really got into it, especially that hunting orange. It went with the snow."Anna even liked it for makeup, which Francois Nars did in a witty, Seventies-style palette of fuschia and orange. She also looked back to that decade for her disco finale. It didn't work -- then or now. But nobody's perfect.
Betsey Johnson: TV City
It may have been the longest show of fashion week, but Betsey Johnson didn't care. She was just there to have fun -- as always. But when her parade of futuristic cybergirls seemed never-ending, she almost had a fashion mutiny on her hands.
As TV screens blared in the background, Johnson sent out her all-Asian lineup, clad first in black or white hooded unitards that would be perfect on the speed-skating track. The designer layered sweet little pinstriped, tweed or tartan suits and dresses over her unitards for day and her black patent slipdresses or maxicoats for evening. But when Johnson ventured too far into the color spectrum with fur-trimmed ultra-neons, her viewers were ready to tune out.
Carolina Herrera: Smart Moves
For the collection she showed on Monday, Carolina Herrera left the intimate confines of her showroom for the first time in several seasons and headed over to the tents, where she drew a diverse crowd from Russell Simmons to her loyal Ladies, including C.Z. Guest, Jamie Gregory and Sally Debenham.
Such elegant gals may not be slaves to flavor-of-the-month fashion, but even they like to give the occasional nod to a big trend. For fall they can do it in smart little suits and coats -- just short enough to make the point -- or not-quite-butch pinstripes. And who says fake fur has to be over-the-top fluff stuff? Not Carolina, who used discreet "persian lamb" for collars, cuffs and even a little miniskirt.
Herrera also laced her palette with color from bright red to those pastels they loved so much in Europe. But one of her favorite hues is gray. She showed almost as much of it as she did black, for everything from plaid day dresses to lame pajama pants and charmeuse siren gowns.
Every now and then, Herrera went a little dippy with details. She spliced perfectly nice evening dresses with needless sheer insets, but her rear-end draping was especially hard to fathom; Carolina's Ladies aren't likely to want to call attention to that anatomical region.Mary McFadden: Progress Report
Weaning Mary McFadden away from her pleats is clearly a Herculean task. But there's been some progress. Certainly many of those signature looks continue to hold their romantic appeal but, presented as a theme show after show after show, they can get tired.
There were handblocked velvet evening coats or embroidered jackets shown over iridescent trousers and some sheer dusters that were terrific -- and unpleated. But never-say-die Mary still knows how to give a bit of a new twist to tradition: Her bride wore a beautiful olive green, Marii-pleated sleeveless gown.
@chanel and @pharrell dropped what’s being dubbed as the world’s most exclusive sneakers yesterday. The Adidas Originals NMD Hu, which Williams designed in collaboration with Chanel and @adidasoriginals, has a waiting list of over 120K people who pre-registered online at chanelatcolette.fr –– and only 500 pairs are on sale. The singer predicted the resale value of the shoes could reach $40K. Read the full interview on WWD.com. Link in bio. #wwdfashion (📷: Dominique Maître)
@imanshumpert is diving deeper into his creative endeavors and relaunching his clothing line, Post 90s, and is helping to raise money for the hurricane victims in St. Maarten with a jersey he’s designed with his brother. The Cleveland Cavaliers player talked to WWD about kneeling during the national anthem, working with fashion brands and how he wants to be more than an @nba player. Read the interview on WWD.com #wwdfashion (📷: George Chinese)
Not only does #TheProfit return to CNBC tonight, but @marcuslemonis has launched @shopmarcus, a new shopping and lifestyle retail experience in Aspen and Chicago, with more locations to come. The retail stores offer in-store stylists and a variety of contemporary womenswear selections.
“It’s life, I’m going to face it,” @mingxi11 sighed. “I fell, but you know, I think the most important thing is that I get back up. I had the love, the help from my sister — the girl next to me Gizele [Oliveira] — she’s so nice. When I went backstage everybody was trying to comfort me like ‘Oh Ming, it’s OK.’ I’m really, really touched. I think it’s them who gave me the courage to go back on stage for the finale,” Xi told WWD of her fall at the @victoriassecret fashion show. (📷: David Fisher) #wwdfashion #vsfashionshow #victoriassecret
@louisvuitton tapped @therealpeterlindbergh for its latest city-centric photo book, which is part of a series called Fashion Eye. The primarily black and white book captures the spirit of Berlin in 57 images shot between 1989 and 2019. “Berlin is an inspiration for me, more than a city. I mean @millajovovich is simply Berlin!” said Lindbergh. #wwdfashion
“You know, I think audiences expect a certain performance so I have to deliver to them what they’re expecting to a certain degree. But I’m also a different actor and a different person, I have my own spin on the character,” says @noahegalvin of his takeover of the leading role in “Dear Evan Hansen” following the departure of @bensplatt, who originated the role. Read WWD’s interview with the 23-year-old actor on WWD.com #wwdeye (📷: @jilliansollazzo)
For pre-fall 2018, @etro created richly-colored wonderland, using tapestries, textiles and wallpapers from the Eastern world at large. The line featured floral and graphic prints and jacquard motifs, like this two-piece look featured here. #wwdfashion (📷: Giovanna Pavesi)
@kith is moving into children’s. The men’s and women’s streetwear brand has launched Kidset, a Kith kids line located in New York at 64 Bleecker Street. The line includes mini versions of staple Kith pieces like the Astor bomber jacket and the Kith box logo sweatshirts, along with a wall that can display up to 120 pairs of shoes from @adidas, @newbalance, @timberland and more. #wwdfashion
“I just wanted to create this fully rounded character, but I do think what excited me most was just the opportunity to give a group of people representation that I feel needs it. I like to do characters in projects that stand for something and Karolina definitely does, so that was really exciting to me,” @ginnygardner says of her new role in @hulu’s “The Runaways.” Gardner plays Karolina Dean, a queer superhero, which is a rarity for @marvel. Read more about Gardner’s character on WWD.com #wwdeye (📷: @dandoperalski)