After his magnificent effort for Anne Klein last week, expectations for Richard Tyler's signature collection were high. Too high. For the most part, his clothes, though impeccably constructed, were just too heavy-handed.
Parts of Richard's collection looked just fine. His tailored pieces were cut with an intricacy unrivaled in New York, and his fabric mixes were beautifully buoyant. He got off on a good military note with fitted olive dresses and jackets, seamed and buttoned to a fare-thee-well, and he sent out plenty of those glammed-up dandy looks his Hollywood stars love. At night, he did his siren number, with a pair of knockout bias-cut charmeuse gowns, in brown with lace insets, and in a black diamond-patterned slip.
But while Richard's spring clothes were detailed with elegance if not restraint, this time out he buttoned, embroidered, bordered and otherwise bedecked everything with a frenetic gusto that too often buried the clothes.
Linda Allard for Ellen Tracy: The Real Thing
This was not only Linda Allard's first outing under the Bryant Park big top, it was also her first runway show. That didn't tempt her to pull any circus stunts, however. Linda just showed lots of what she does best -- real clothes. And with just about every major store chairman in her audience, it's obvious that the Ellen Tracy collection is a money-maker.
Allard jump-started her presentation with her young and snappy secondary line, Company by Ellen Tracy. In addition to sweet little schoolgirl suits and jumpers, Allard showed some terrific coats, including a worn, black leather rocker jacket and a long, hooded striped Tibetan number.
The designer's collection coats were also standouts, especially her shearlings over matching knits. Her military group looked crisp with navy midcalf coats over white shirts and navy leggings or a little trench jacket with a kilt. For evening, there were sexy double-breasted tuxedo suits worn with matching silk faille and suede to-the-knee boots. But Allard could have left some of the lackluster suits and the dated-looking belted knit dresses back in the showroom.
Donna Karan: She Is WomanDonna Karan is a woman on a mission. She's crusading for personal style, and in her program notes urges women to "pull it all together in a completely modern, sensual way." Her task, she says, it to offer choice, the tools, the whole works -- "woman to woman."
"Fitting real women with style and security, that's where it's at, " Donna said before the show. And she made her point by peppering her model roster with friends, older models and celebrities. Sheila Metzner, Andrea Marcovicci, Patti Hansen, Bianca Jagger, Dayle Haddon, Isabella Rossellini and Veruschka were among those who shared runway space with the regulars. It was a refreshing idea -- equal parts sweet and smart -- especially the finale in which everyone hung out in the spirit of sisterhood.
Donna certainly made good on her promise to offer plenty of choice. She threw her hat into the longer skirt ring with lengths that fell anywhere from just above the knee to just below. But she also showed the leggy little suit in seemingly endless variety: neon-brights with shaped, welt-seamed jackets; in flint cashmere with contoured skirts, and the newest way, with the jacket over a curvy little dress. There was butch -- pinstriped suits, reefer coats -- and babe -- lots of slip dresses and bustiers, sometimes mixed together.
Donna's coats were equally diverse, from big, mannish polos to a short, flared pink trench and the best of the bunch -- featherweight shearling "shells."
But everything has its limits -- especially variety. In her campaign to offer "Everywoman" the sartorial tools she needs, Donna sometimes lost her senses. The asymmetric and hanky hems were a mess, and those bunched-bodice, Empire taffeta ballgowns were for no women we know -- and certainly none who were on the runway.
Scaasi Boutique: Glitter Bug
All that glitters is not gold at Scaasi Boutique. Sure, there's lots of that metallic brocade, lace and embroidery, but there's also a raft of jazzy red dance dresses and gowns and long, full-skirted paisley challis numbers ablaze with tons of glitter that shout more than shine. As we all know, subtlety is not one of Arnold Scaasi's strengths, except when it comes to those draped matte jersey gowns -- this time in plum and putty. And that's when the collection is at its best. There's a smattering of browns this season, too, and Scaasi shows off this palette splendidly in his chiffon column with a draped torso and huge, matching shawl. But all those gussied up bows, bustles and garish gold buttons, not to mention the Maid Marion shoulders, almost endangered the real glamour species.
@chanel and @pharrell dropped what’s being dubbed as the world’s most exclusive sneakers yesterday. The Adidas Originals NMD Hu, which Williams designed in collaboration with Chanel and @adidasoriginals, has a waiting list of over 120K people who pre-registered online at chanelatcolette.fr –– and only 500 pairs are on sale. The singer predicted the resale value of the shoes could reach $40K. Read the full interview on WWD.com. Link in bio. #wwdfashion
@imanshumpert is diving deeper into his creative endeavors and relaunching his clothing line, Post 90s, and is helping to raise money for the hurricane victims in St. Maarten with a jersey he’s designed with his brother. The Cleveland Cavaliers player talked to WWD about kneeling during the national anthem, working with fashion brands and how he wants to be more than an @nba player. Read the interview on WWD.com #wwdfashion (📷: George Chinese)
Not only does #TheProfit return to CNBC tonight, but @marcuslemonis has launched @shopmarcus, a new shopping and lifestyle retail experience in Aspen and Chicago, with more locations to come. The retail stores offer in-store stylists and a variety of contemporary womenswear selections.
“It’s life, I’m going to face it,” @mingxi11 sighed. “I fell, but you know, I think the most important thing is that I get back up. I had the love, the help from my sister — the girl next to me Gizele [Oliveira] — she’s so nice. When I went backstage everybody was trying to comfort me like ‘Oh Ming, it’s OK.’ I’m really, really touched. I think it’s them who gave me the courage to go back on stage for the finale,” Xi told WWD of her fall at the @victoriassecret fashion show. (📷: David Fisher) #wwdfashion #vsfashionshow #victoriassecret
@louisvuitton tapped @therealpeterlindbergh for its latest city-centric photo book, which is part of a series called Fashion Eye. The primarily black and white book captures the spirit of Berlin in 57 images shot between 1989 and 2019. “Berlin is an inspiration for me, more than a city. I mean @millajovovich is simply Berlin!” said Lindbergh. #wwdfashion
“You know, I think audiences expect a certain performance so I have to deliver to them what they’re expecting to a certain degree. But I’m also a different actor and a different person, I have my own spin on the character,” says @noahegalvin of his takeover of the leading role in “Dear Evan Hansen” following the departure of @bensplatt, who originated the role. Read WWD’s interview with the 23-year-old actor on WWD.com #wwdeye (📷: @jilliansollazzo)
For pre-fall 2018, @etro created richly-colored wonderland, using tapestries, textiles and wallpapers from the Eastern world at large. The line featured floral and graphic prints and jacquard motifs, like this two-piece look featured here. #wwdfashion (📷: Giovanna Pavesi)
@kith is moving into children’s. The men’s and women’s streetwear brand has launched Kidset, a Kith kids line located in New York at 64 Bleecker Street. The line includes mini versions of staple Kith pieces like the Astor bomber jacket and the Kith box logo sweatshirts, along with a wall that can display up to 120 pairs of shoes from @adidas, @newbalance, @timberland and more. #wwdfashion
“I just wanted to create this fully rounded character, but I do think what excited me most was just the opportunity to give a group of people representation that I feel needs it. I like to do characters in projects that stand for something and Karolina definitely does, so that was really exciting to me,” @ginnygardner says of her new role in @hulu’s “The Runaways.” Gardner plays Karolina Dean, a queer superhero, which is a rarity for @marvel. Read more about Gardner’s character on WWD.com #wwdeye (📷: @dandoperalski)