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Nickel Makes an Enemy

PARIS — Nickel hopes to make a lot of new friends, despite the name of its first men’s fragrance, called Enemy. But it’s not as violent as the macho positioning would suggest. <br><br>Inspiration for the scent (whose French name is...

PARIS — Nickel hopes to make a lot of new friends, despite the name of its first men’s fragrance, called Enemy. But it’s not as violent as the macho positioning would suggest.

This story first appeared in the May 16, 2003 issue of WWD.  Subscribe Today.

Inspiration for the scent (whose French name is Ennemi) came from the smell of a man’s skin, explained Eric Baldini, director of the men’s French beauty brand’s flagship and head of Nickel’s communication.

Creations Aromatiques’ Emilie Coppermann used headspace technology and a mix of a fresh metal accord plus numerous other notes such as cardamom, grapefruit, ebony and nutmeg to concoct the juice.

Enemy’s asymmetric blue bottle, conceived by Western Design, is rectangular, with a webbed pattern meant to resemble cracked glass.

“Enemy is about gentle violence,” explained Baldini, who added Nickel opted to introduce a scent after consumers were long clamoring for it.

The fragrance’s bottle also is meant to be reversible, with the name “Enemy” on one side and “Ennemi” on the other.

The scent was just launched in Nickel’s freestanding store here and the newly inaugurated Sephora flagship on the Rue de Rivoli. Enemy will then be rolled out to the rest of France in June; Belgium, Italy and Germany in September, and the U.S. next year.

Although Nickel executives refused to divulge numbers, industry sources estimate the new fragrance will ring up nearly $3 million in first-year retail sales.

The 100-ml. eau de toilette spray sells in France for $59. All dollar figures are converted from the euro at current exchange rates.

Advertising for Enemy, which will break in men’s publications in early June in France, includes single and double pages showing men ready to rumble.

“The advertising is in the spirit of ‘Fight Club,’ ” explained Philippe Dumont, founder, owner and president of Nickel.

Enemy’s launch will be backed by 1.5-ml. miniatures, postcards and in-store newsletters. The latter includes information about the scent and a word game that allows winners to receive samples or full-size Enemy bottles.