NEW YORK — Designers were all about texture at the Nouveau Collective trade show.
The show, which ran May 6 to 9 at the New Yorker hotel, attracted some 2,000 buyers who purchased fall lines from 418 labels, including Forwear/AZI Jeans, Serena Kay, Gerties, Tianello, Mycra Pac, Toupy, Donna Morgan, LA Blend, Surrealist, Insight and Pure Handknit.
Although texture and novelty fabrics dominated as autumn trends, black and chocolate brown held their own as staples for fall collections. Shades of purple and wine were evident and, as far as denim was concerned, the wider the better.
Lace, chenille and velvet were the most popular fabrics at Surrealist, especially in their best-selling three-quarter- and short-sleeved True tops, which come in more than 60 colors and fabrics, wholesaling for $29. Another hit for the Valencia, Calif.-based brand were rouched long skirts in cotton jersey, wholesaling for $59, which, designer Mary Larson said, "we can't cut fast enough." Surrealist can be found at Arlene Bowman, a Bleecker Street boutique here, and the Boston Proper catalogue.
"Purple is the new black," said Eileen Bach of Donna Morgan, who added that fall is the season of color for the brand that has more than doubled its business in the past year. Popular fall items have been the matte jersey and silk charmeuse dresses, which are available in an array of colors and prints. The dresses wholesale from $59 for the matte jersey to $79 for silk. Purple and violet are the best-selling colors for fall. The belted sheath dress in a red-and-black diamond print also was a favorite of buyers, but in terms of color, red and black always do well, Bach said.
With wide-leg jeans on the rise, many women are relieved that they no longer have to squeeze into the superskinny jeans that have been popular in the past year. AZI Jeans is embracing this trend with its wide-leg jean, selling about 2,000 pairs during the four-day trade show, said Joseph Yeganeh of Forwear and AZI Jeans. Crinkled denim was another hit for the fall. "It is the hottest thing in Italy and Germany," Yeganeh said. "We are the first to introduce it to the United States."Marjorie Tuttle is the owner-buyer for Art and Soul, a specialty boutique in Washington. Although hesitant to drop names, she dresses congresswomen and White House staffers. As a regular buyer at Nouveau Collective, Tuttle is a loyal patron of Mycra Pac (reversible raincoats with matching totes that come in a variety of novelty fabrics are popular), Tianello and Gerties. For fall, Tuttle bought items in black, chocolate, charcoal gray, olive and burgundy, but no real "punchy colors."
Marcy Schwait, owner/buyer of the boutique Marcy G in Cherry Hill, N.J., raved about BKG's sweater line, Insight's pants and Serena Kay's patent leather raincoats. BKG's sweaters, which retail from $80 to $120, are one-size-fits-all, although they carry some sweaters in a "mini fit" and others that are more oversized and machine-washable. "I look for items, and it's kind of whatever hits me, but the Insight pants I buy every season. They are phenomenal, they wear like iron," Schwait said. "They are a staple in the store, the women love them." The Insight pants at Marcy G retail for around $135.
@kith is moving into children’s. The men’s and women’s streetwear brand has launched Kidset, a Kith kids line located in New York at 64 Bleecker Street. The line includes mini versions of staple Kith pieces like the Astor bomber jacket and the Kith box logo sweatshirts, along with a wall that can display up to 120 pairs of shoes from @adidas, @newbalance, @timberland and more. #wwdfashion
“I just wanted to create this fully rounded character, but I do think what excited me most was just the opportunity to give a group of people representation that I feel needs it. I like to do characters in projects that stand for something and Karolina definitely does, so that was really exciting to me,” @ginnygardner says of her new role in @hulu’s “The Runaways.” Gardner plays Karolina Dean, a queer superhero, which is a rarity for @marvel. Read more about Gardner’s character on WWD.com #wwdeye (📷: @dandoperalski)
@heriethpaul and @gracebol have a moment on the @victoriassecret fashion show 2017. See every look from the runway on WWD.com. Link in bio. (📷: @giovanni_giannoni_photo) #wwdfashion #victoriassecret #VSFashionShow
“Azzedine has been one of the biggest influences in my life. He has always been such a strong, loving, fatherly figure to me. I call him Papa. His designs are indescribably unique, they are pieces of art. He knew how to make the female form look its loveliest. I have so many memories of him; my favorite might be during my first show with him in Paris. He liked me and he wanted to help me get more work. He called all his friends at Kenzo and Comme des Garcons, and asked them to book me. They said, ‘But she can’t walk!’ And he said, ‘but she has such a great ass!' His friendship and support has been the great privilege of my career. I can't imagine life without him. Repose en paix mon Papa.” - @stephanieseymour tells @wwd. #wwdfashion (📷: @steveeichner) #alaia #azzedinealaia
Azzedine Alaïa, flanked by two of his closest friends, models Stephanie Seymour and Naomi Campbell.
He designed Seymour’s dress for her 1995 wedding to Peter Brant, and treated Campbell (who famously called him Papa), like a daughter. For more on the legendary designer, tap the link in bio. #wwdfashion #alaia #azzedinealaia