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PARIS — Ombre Rose is staging a comeback.
This story first appeared in the November 1, 2002 issue of WWD. Subscribe Today.
The classic fragrance created in 1981 by French milliner and accessories designer Jean-Charles Brosseau will be back on Bergdorf Goodman and Neiman Marcus shelves Nov. 4.
The scent, which industry sources estimate rang up $15 million in wholesale volume between 1982 and 1987, has been out of selective distribution for approximately four years.
In 1995, Brosseau took Ombre Rose’s then-fragrance license-holder Inter Parfums to court, claiming a breach of contract regarding its juice, which was to remain unaltered, and its distribution — which was to remain highly selective. Brosseau won the case four years later and immediately went to work on the fragrance that’s called Ombre Rose L’Original.
“I had to restore the formula,” Brosseau said of the oriental floral juice created by perfumer Françoise Caron. The fragrance’s top notes include rosewood, honey, ylang-ylang and peach. Heart notes feature rose, lily of the valley and iris. Its base notes are musk coumarin, vanilla and sandalwood.
Brosseau also reinstated the initial hexagonal Ombre Rose bottle that features a floral pattern. As in the past, the eau de toilette bottles have a translucent motif with a frosted background and the parfum extract flacons are in black.
Ombre Rose L’Original’s launch at Bergdorf’s will be backed by a five-day window display and in-store appearances by Brosseau. Then, starting next year, the scent will be launched in other U.S. specialty stores.
Brosseau refused to divulge numbers, but industry sources estimate Ombre Rose L’Original could generate $3 million in wholesale volume in its first year in the U.S.
The seven-stockkeeping unit line includes 7.5, 15 and 30-ml. parfum extracts that will retail for $80, $140 and $220, respectively. The scent also comes in 50 and 75-ml. eau de toilette sprays that will go for $55 and $70, respectively. A 180-ml. eau de toilette splash will sell for $115 and a 200-ml. body lotion tube for $35.