PARIS — Catering to the client seemed to be the modus operandi of a trio of lesser-known designers vying for attention amid the couture hubbub here.
Dominique Sirop, who showed at the Lido cabaret, zeroed in on ladies on the hunt for slinky, glamorous gowns. Cut in diaphanous chiffon with long trains, these numbers exuded the kind of come-hither sizzle that only a woman confident enough to show a little — and sometimes a lot — of skin can pull off. Bands of rough-cut georgette spiraled around some, while another was decorated with strips of python. A simpler version, slashed open in geometric patterns and paired with a jeweled bolero, was more approachable. And on a wearable note, Sirop’s leather coats, with a large fur-lined collar or tiered, draped sleeves, exuded chic without trying too hard.
For her part, Ritu Beri, formerly the ready-to-wear designer at Scherrer, crashed the couture calendar for the first time this season with fashions inspired by her native India. There were sexy saris, slinky embroidered gowns, midriff-baring shirts, flowing belly-dancer skirts and exotic fabrics with lots of energy and fun. Mixing this with a Western influence, she embroidered jeans, showed crushed velvet coats and went wild by decorating it all with sequins and tassels. Was it too much? Well, at times, yes. But going over the top seemed to be the idea. In any case, there’s much to be said for her detailed craftsmanship, which, if reined in by an astute style sense, could be appealing.
Finally, it wasn’t couture per se, but Anne-Valerie Hash’s intricate and conceptual reworked jackets and trousers were “haute” in their execution. By turning a jacket inside out and dissecting it, she transformed it into a wraparound top, or lopped off the sleeves to give it a rock ’n’ roll edge. Hash brought more refinement to this collection than she has in the past, adding pretty chiffon ballerina skirts and dresses in pink and blue and elongated asymmetrical jackets that were easy enough to wear.
A room full of toiles at the haute couture atelier in the Dior exhibition at Les Arts Décoratifs, open in Paris since July 5. This is just one of three major exhibitions that have been timed to coincide with the house's 70th anniversary. See the rest of the exhibits, plus read WWD's look into the iconic brand's history. Link in bio. #wwdfashion (📷: @dominiquemaitre)
For spring, Pamplemousse's Danica Zheng presented her signature slip dresses attached to a white T-shirt along with floral windbreakers, off-the-shoulder cotton blouses and more. For more highlights from the New York trade shows, go to WWD.com. #wwdfashion
The Green Carpet Fashion Awards closed out Milan Fashion Week yesterday. The fashion industry flocked to the event, showing its efforts to support and spread the message of sustainability. Supermodel Gisele Bündchen said "if each one of us took at least one step is this direction, there is no saying how much could be done." #wwdeye #wwdfashion #mfw (📷: Lodovico Colli di Felizzano)
Etro’s show, titled “The Tree of Life,” was a celebration of the house’s 50th anniversary. “My father founded the company in 1968, which was the year of counterculture and psychedelia. It’s really a show that celebrates that and the paisley design of India and its origin,” said Veronica Etro. #wwdfashion #mfw #ss18 (📷: @delphineachard)
For @msgm’s spring 2018 show, creative director @massimogiorgetti said “Words, sounds, colors. Synthesis and therapy of a collection,” were the inspirations behind the collection, showing today. Read the rest of Milan spring 2018 inspirations on WWD.com. #mfw #wwdfashion #ss18
For her first solo album in over 10 years, Fergie tapped Carine Roitfeld, Mert and Marcus, Giovanni Bianco and more to create a fashion-focused video approach for the record, Double Dutchess. "Giovanni really helped me get back in touch with my tomboy side, my hardside," said the singer. #wwdeye #wwdfashion ( : @slovekinpics)