Three new labels showed strong potential at Gen Art's Fresh Faces in Fashion, where Kyan Douglas of "Queer Eye for the Straight Guy" played host. Octopi's Sarah Walsh and Madeline Davy went circular with scoop necks and rounded seams and hems. The latter elements were best demonstrated on a gold viscose and cool cream linen dress. Annie Lewis and Helen Cho, the designers behind Lewis Cho, deserve an "A" for their beautifully draped dresses and intriguing knits, and Rodebjer's Carin Rodebjer presented slouchy suits, as well as voluminous floor-skimming dresses fashioned out of men's shirting.

Meanwhile, as the industry's thirst for new talent reaches a feverish pitch, San Francisco's Academy of Art University swooped in to present the first-ever student showing at the tents. Featuring capsule collections from a dozen recent grads, the show caused Barney's Simon Doonan to proclaim, "This did not look like a student fashion show — very well done." Standouts included Emily Ginn's russet jacquard coat dress with a contrast collar and sash, Sarah Kalata's expertly knitted sweater featuring three-dimensional cellular knit flowers and Mariana Vidal Escabi's whimsical cotton day dress with a Magritte-inspired print.

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