Steven Stolman: Retro-grade

In his 45-piece collection, Steven Stolman focused on the Seventies. And while Mary Tyler Moore may have been his muse, amusing it wasn't. Instead of an over-the-top romp through Mary Richards' closet, the show was more of a retro rehash better suited for ladies of a certain age. Fortunately, Steven fared better with his late day and evening dresses -- like the charming minis in cut velvet or iridescent chiffon and the Black Watch silk taffeta strapless.

Koos & De Wilde: India Inc.

Peter De Wilde's recent trip to India paid off. The fall collection he and partner Koos van den Akker showed was rich in Eastern influences: shimmering embroidered silks, glorious colors, inlaid prints and lots of kimonos and pajamas. Then they left the exotic reaches with crisp gray wool suits, chiffon T-dresses and flowy, flecked wool gauze numbers overlaid in lace, which were smart -- and very New York. For those who care, there are still a few fringe elements and patchworks to be found here.

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