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Those wondering if Olivier Theyskens, he of Nina Ricci and Rochas and intricate demicouture clothes, could marry approachable and high fashion need look no further than his fall Theyskens’ Theory collection. The designer made an impressive return to the runway with a terrific lineup of jeans, sweaters and jackets; kimono-coat hybrids, and dresses printed with pretty, plaidlike blueprints of cathedral buildings. “I’ve added the urban city,” explained Theyskens, “but imbued [the collection] with all the clothes that I love to have.” In other words, the vibe’s still slightly Goth, but with a major injection of street-chic cool. “I’m very emotional,” he continued, postshow, as editors and buyers quickly clustered around him in congratulations. “I am so happy about the results. This was why I wanted to go in that direction in my career.”
This story first appeared in the March 21, 2011 issue of WWD. Subscribe Today.