Designers kept true to their signature styles, whether dark or punky, curious or cowboy.
Ann Demeulemeester: With dark romance and layering one of the season's main messages, it seemed logical for Ann Demeulemeester, the Belgian who has plied the look so expertly in the past, to cash in. And she did, while edging her signature poetic-rock style a step forward. "I wanted it to be sculptural," explained the designer after the show. That meant an emphasis on dresses, which Demeulemeester cut on the bias and loosely laced up diagonally in the back, creating a sinuous, sexy line. Another to-the-floor confection plunged below the navel and was paired with a furry scarf. Tailored pieces ran from baggy trousers to cool leather blousons and jackets with tails, while fabrics had a worn look, but delicately so, from velvet to leather. Black underscored the whole collection, interspersed with dashes of silver foil-like leather and blue-and-white, tie-dye-printed velvet. One of Demeulemeester's cleverer ideas was a hooded vest with a long scarf that wrapped around the body. It played on her ultimate signature in a fetching, novel way.
Undercover: Japanese designer Jun Takahashi isn't exactly known for being tame, and he's made his Undercover brand one of the edgiest in town. Surely his collection for fall will consolidate his reputation: it was weird, especially with all the models wearing fetishist Hannibal Lecter-like masks. The creepy headgear was tricked out with tribal jewelry or chandelier crystals and made many in the audience a little uncomfortable — while others just snickered. What did it mean? One can only wonder. But there seemed to be a postapocalyptic message in it, as if Takahashi envisioned women wandering a harrowing post-nuclear-war world and assembling their clothes from bits and pieces found amid the wreckage. Undoubtedly his garments have invention and detail, whether trousers that were stitched up the back or jackets with military details that were half unmade and wrapped around the body like a mummy's bandages. And while some could be easily wearable, like the tuxedo coats and a ruffled black skirt, most remained curious creations from a very curious mind.
Vivienne Westwood: When you have a signature style, why not exploit it? Vivienne Westwood sure has, and then some. For fall, she referenced her familiar trademarks, whether disheveled dresses or slouchy knits. It made for a sloppy hobo-like look with hints of punk attitude: glittery gold trousers; boxy-shouldered jackets and coats, and rumpled dresses and skirts cut on the bias. Plaids were important. A blue wool plaid was used for shorts and square-shouldered jackets, while a barrage of colorful sweaters — one came with a pair of eyes positioned on the chest — showed Westwood at her cheeky best. There were fine clothes. Yet the show, as a whole, lacked pop, and some silhouettes were simply clunkers, especially the awkward skirts and dresses with hoops that flared out unattractively at the hip.Marithé & François Girbaud: This season, the Girbauds extended the relaxed sportswear theme that is their signature, heading out West for a comfortable silhouette with cowgirl flair. Western-style jackets in cotton or suede were paired with ruffled skirts and blouses that were decorated with pearl snaps and boot-lace ties. Fabrics had a lived-in feel, while colors were muted and faded, from indigo and khaki to red, blue and gray. A military theme emerged in epaulets, standup collars and a series of elegant fitted jackets, while red parkas added a technical edge to the solid collection.
“These collections continue to build on that vision, empowering differently abled adults to express themselves through fashion,” said @tommyhilfiger of his line of adaptive apparel, which launches today. The line consists of 37 men’s and 34 women’s styles based upon the pieces from the spring Tommy Hilfiger sportswear collection. #wwdnews
“Stranger Things” is getting a new cast member for season 2. Meet @sadiesink_, the 15-year-old who will be joining the Netflix series for its new season. You may recognize her from “The Glass Castle” with Brie Larson and Woody Harrelson, but the Texas native’s next role goes in an entirely different direction. She describes her character, Max, as “a rough and tumble skater girl [who] becomes friends with the boys at school.” The second season debuts on October 27. (📷: @jgreenery) #wwdeye
Amid the Harvey Weinstein controversy, there’s another sector that’s being put under the spotlight for sexual abuse: the modeling industry. While rumors about abuse and sexual harassment of female and male models — and the photographers, agents and others who perpetrated it — have circulated within the fashion world for years, model @cameronrussell started posting stories from models on Instagram last week about abusive situations they’ve encountered — from sexual harassment and molestation to attempted rape. Over 75 have weighed in so far. Read more on WWD.com. Link in bio. #wwdnews
To celebrate its 16th anniversary, @dylanscandybar tapped designers and celebrities to create mosaics out of candy. The mosaics will be auctioned off to support the philanthropic cause of each participant’s choice. Pictured here is the mural created by @aliceandolivia's Stacey Bendet. For a first look at some of the other artwork being unveiled tonight, go to WWD.com. #wwdeye
The annual Veuve Clicquot Polo Classic in Pacific Palisades this weekend drew Kate Hudson, Tracee Ellis Ross, Laura Dern and more. See pictures of the star-studded event on WWD.com. (📷: @chelsealaurenla) #wwdeye
In his new book “Hollywood Royale,” Andy Warhol’s Protégé Matthew Rolston celebrates the Eighties revival of Hollywood glamour. Featuring more than 100 portraits taken by Rolston from 1977 to 1993, the book contains photos of icons like Michael Jackson, Cyndi Lauper, and @drewbarrymore, pictured here in 1991. “Hollywood Royale,” out today, will be accompanied by an exhibition opening at Los Angeles’ Fahey/Klein Gallery on March 1. #wwdeye
"Nowadays when life is not so happy with everything going on in the world, I think people come to me for a little bit of whimsy and color and fun." - Designer Rebecca De Ravenel on her cult-favorite jewelry line. (📸 : @vsteves) #wwd40
“Everyone is talking about how the retail industry is struggling, but I think it’s an incredible time because brands who are doing something different and innovative are setting themselves up for the future,” said @adamgoldston, who founded the luxury athletic brand @apl with his brother @ryangoldsten. The Goldston’s are part of WWD’s 40 under 40: a group of industry notables. See the rest of the list on WWD.com. (📷: @vsteves) #wwd40
@eyeswoon blogger Athena Calderone debuted her first-ever cookbook, “Cook Beautiful,” which is heavily centered on the presentation and visual expression of food. Pictured here are her miso glazed carrots from the book. Get the recipe on WWD.com. (📷: @johnny_miller_) #wwdeye