Designers kept true to their signature styles, whether dark or punky, curious or cowboy.
Ann Demeulemeester: With dark romance and layering one of the season's main messages, it seemed logical for Ann Demeulemeester, the Belgian who has plied the look so expertly in the past, to cash in. And she did, while edging her signature poetic-rock style a step forward. "I wanted it to be sculptural," explained the designer after the show. That meant an emphasis on dresses, which Demeulemeester cut on the bias and loosely laced up diagonally in the back, creating a sinuous, sexy line. Another to-the-floor confection plunged below the navel and was paired with a furry scarf. Tailored pieces ran from baggy trousers to cool leather blousons and jackets with tails, while fabrics had a worn look, but delicately so, from velvet to leather. Black underscored the whole collection, interspersed with dashes of silver foil-like leather and blue-and-white, tie-dye-printed velvet. One of Demeulemeester's cleverer ideas was a hooded vest with a long scarf that wrapped around the body. It played on her ultimate signature in a fetching, novel way.
Undercover: Japanese designer Jun Takahashi isn't exactly known for being tame, and he's made his Undercover brand one of the edgiest in town. Surely his collection for fall will consolidate his reputation: it was weird, especially with all the models wearing fetishist Hannibal Lecter-like masks. The creepy headgear was tricked out with tribal jewelry or chandelier crystals and made many in the audience a little uncomfortable — while others just snickered. What did it mean? One can only wonder. But there seemed to be a postapocalyptic message in it, as if Takahashi envisioned women wandering a harrowing post-nuclear-war world and assembling their clothes from bits and pieces found amid the wreckage. Undoubtedly his garments have invention and detail, whether trousers that were stitched up the back or jackets with military details that were half unmade and wrapped around the body like a mummy's bandages. And while some could be easily wearable, like the tuxedo coats and a ruffled black skirt, most remained curious creations from a very curious mind.
Vivienne Westwood: When you have a signature style, why not exploit it? Vivienne Westwood sure has, and then some. For fall, she referenced her familiar trademarks, whether disheveled dresses or slouchy knits. It made for a sloppy hobo-like look with hints of punk attitude: glittery gold trousers; boxy-shouldered jackets and coats, and rumpled dresses and skirts cut on the bias. Plaids were important. A blue wool plaid was used for shorts and square-shouldered jackets, while a barrage of colorful sweaters — one came with a pair of eyes positioned on the chest — showed Westwood at her cheeky best. There were fine clothes. Yet the show, as a whole, lacked pop, and some silhouettes were simply clunkers, especially the awkward skirts and dresses with hoops that flared out unattractively at the hip.Marithé & François Girbaud: This season, the Girbauds extended the relaxed sportswear theme that is their signature, heading out West for a comfortable silhouette with cowgirl flair. Western-style jackets in cotton or suede were paired with ruffled skirts and blouses that were decorated with pearl snaps and boot-lace ties. Fabrics had a lived-in feel, while colors were muted and faded, from indigo and khaki to red, blue and gray. A military theme emerged in epaulets, standup collars and a series of elegant fitted jackets, while red parkas added a technical edge to the solid collection.
EXCLUSIVE: Two and half months after John Targon, cofounder and codesigner of Baja East, was hired as creative director of the contemporary division at Marc Jacobs, he has left the company, WWD has learned. Marc Jacobs International, which is owned by LVMH Moët Hennessy Louis Vuitton, confirmed Targon’s departure in a statement: “John Targon is a talented designer and we appreciate the work he has done here. Ultimately working together did not make sense for the brand and we wish him the best.” Read the story by @jessiredale, link in bio. #wwdnews
@theluxurycollection is officially launching a collection, tapping Sofia Sanchez de Betak for the capsule. Over 30 styles will be featured in the Chufy x The Luxury Collection, debuting next month at Bergdorf Goodman, The Webster, FiveStory and more. De Betak, known as “@chufy,” drew inspiration for the collection from her trips to Japan in the past year #wwdfashion
@lhd, founder and CEO of @thewebster, has teamed up with @lebonmarcherivegauche for the European launch of her ready-to-wear line, LHD. The launch will come with an exclusive pop-up opening today that’s set to run through May 20. Located on the second floor, it carries her debut Miami-themed resort collection, launched in November as see-now-buy-now. #wwdfashion
@longchamp, which marks its 70th anniversary this year, just opened its biggest U.S. store on Manhattan’s Fifth Avenue. On the lower level there’s a floor-to-ceiling display of the brand’s iconic Le Pliage bag – in all of its different colors, shapes and sizes. Customers can also have their product personalized in-store by imprinting names, initials or emblems. #wwdfashion (📷: @ericmtownsend)
“Whenever I’m in that place of sound and music, I don’t have fear or nervousness…This album has a lot of themes of courage and boldness and I want to be the soundtrack for people’s lives. I’ll be so happy if [my songs] evoke strength in people, which I know music has done for me,” says @kimbramusic of her newest album “Primal Heart.” The New Zealand-born singer sat down with WWD to talk about her music, newest tour and connecting with hear fans — read more on WWD.com #wwdeye (📷: @jilliansollazzo)
Luxury handbag resale company @rebagofficial is planning to sell a rare collectible for $70,000: the @hermes White Crocodile Himalayan Birkin. The exclusive Birkin sold for about $100,000 in 2008, when @davidbeckham bought one for his wife @victoriabeckham to add to her collection. Read more about the rare Birkin on WWD.com #wwdaccessories
With her costume pearl necklace and what-you-see-is-what-you-get style, Barbara Bush, who died Tuesday at age 92, was a straight-shooter from start to finish.
Born Barbara Pierce in New York City, Bush served as the 37th first lady, as well as the country’s second lady from 1981 to 1989. In addition to being part of the longest presidential marriage — 73 years — Bush also had the unlikely distinction of having one son, George W., become the 43rd president and another son, Jeb, run unsuccessfully in 2016. Having served as second lady during the Reagan administration’s two terms and lived all over the world during her own husband’s ascending political career, Barbara Bush made it clear that literacy — not fashion — was her priority. Read more from Rosemary Feitelberg’s obituary on the late First Lady in WWD.com, link in bio. #barbarabush #wwdnews
Western and ’90s trends have influenced denim for fall 2018. Think raw, dark and coated jeans mixed with bold prints and tough leather. #trendtuesdays #wwdfashion (Styled by @thealexbadia;📷: @ryanplett)