Los Angeles Fashion Week, which gets under way Thursday, will showcase young designers who look back and look ahead, evoking Old Hollywood, making their clothes with a sense of environmental fragility, and more.
Maxine Dillon, who will show her third collection as part of Gen Art’s Fresh Faces in Fashion event on Friday, was an intern for Gen Art alumnae Alicia Lawhon when she was a student, but it was working as a production manager for the Line Society for Rational Dress that really showed her the ropes. “They don’t teach you that stuff when you major in design,” she said. For spring, much of Dillon’s inspiration came from what she wears herself — relaxed dresses with a masculine jacket or vest thrown on top. She also took inspiration from tomboy models like Agyness Deyn, Irina Lazareanu and Erin Wasson. “I like tops that are slightly oversize with skinny jeans or drapy tops with high-waisted shorts, and I like mixing neutrals with one color that pops,” said Dillon, a graduate of the Fashion Institute of Design & Merchandising in Los Angeles. The shirts are made from organic cotton gauze, dresses and blouses from a liquid-like silky fabric called Cupro, structured pieces from a cotton-Tencel blend and knits made from organic cotton and recycled polyester. Dillon also designed a custom print in silk charmeuse. Wholesale prices range from $65 to $150 and the line sells at Aero & Co. in Los Angeles and Revolveclothing.com.
Ashley Ann got her start working in the wardrobe department on films such as “The Last Samurai” and playing stylist for her friends. Four years ago, she and a friend started the Clementyne line before Ann decided to go out on her own with Myne. The label, which started out as colorful printed silk tops, sells at Barneys New York, Intermix, Saks Fifth Avenue and Shopbop. Ann, 26, has grown the collection to include jersey tops and woven ponchos, high-waisted skirts, shorts and dresses. “I try to let the print carry the piece with a simple body,” she said “I don’t like too much ruffle.” Tops wholesale from $50 to $95, skirts from $90 to $100 and dresses from $120 to $150. Myne will present its collection at Switch boutique on Thursday.
There always seems to be a former model in the newest crop of Los Angeles designers, but Sardinia native Valerj Pobega has a track record. During her catwalk days in Rome and Milan, Pobega, 31, also designed the sportswear line Kg363. After moving to Los Angeles with her husband two years ago, Pobega started a high-end line inspired by old Hollywood movies. “Imagine a Greek goddess going to a party in Man Ray’s studio,” she said of her third collection for spring. “It is both surrealistic and typical of the shapes worn in ancient Greece.” The 12 intricately pleated, dyed and draped silk and chiffon pieces inblack, champagne and peach range from $1,000 to $2,500 wholesale. The line is sold exclusively at Presse boutique in Los Angeles and through special order. Pobega will present her third collection at the Downtown Standard on Saturday.
Sisters Becky and Laura Carter said they always have been conscious of their eco footprint, aiming to make fashionable clothes from responsible materials. They started Velvet Leaf in spring 2006, and the line was immediately picked up by the Los Angeles chain Planet Blue, followed by Revolve Clothing, Xin, Atmosphere, Sirens and Sailors and Wasteland. The sisters, whose mother is Native American, have managed to grow the business despite living in different cities. Becky, 23, resides in their hometown of San Francisco, and Laura, 21, lives in Los Angeles. The line of bright color-blocked or geometric printed dresses and jackets has a Fifties and Sixties flair that the Carters adopted from countless days of vintage shopping. “We want to make pieces that women will want to keep forever and wear again and again,” Becky Carter said. “That in itself is eco-conscious.” Prices range from $46 wholesale for a tank top to $200 for dresses. Velvet Leaf will present its spring collection at the Gen Art and Soyjoy Fashionably Natural show on Thursday.
The San Francisco-based, British designer referenced the past and the future for spring 2009 — her fourth collection — which she will show at the Tschida Kabat Entertainment Group loft space in Hollywood on Oct. 16. “It’s a combination of youth and maturity, with a wearability that makes women feel fabulous,” she said. A black skirt with woven detail, for example, is traceable to Shepherd’s relatives in Germany and India. The expertly finished, tailored men’s wear-inspired pieces, such as a high-collared waistcoat, reflect her training at London’s Central Saint Martins College of Art and Design and the Academy of Art. In between the two fashion schools, Shepherd, who is in her late 30s, worked in advertising and lived in New York, Baltimore andWashington. The line, which starts at $100 wholesale for simple tops and ranges to $2,000, retails at Modern Appealing Clothing and Eco Citizen in San Francisco.
London’s newly opened @designmuseum will look back on the life and work of Azzedine Alaïa in a show that the designer helped to curate before he died of heart failure last month. The retrospective, which Alaïa had worked on with Mark Wilson, chief curator of the @groningermuseum, will look at the impact of his work worldwide. The show, “Azzedine Alaïa: The Couturier,” will run from May 10 to October 7. Read more about the exhibit on WWD.com #wwdnews #wwdfashion (📷: @zefashioninsider)
@Pharrell and his wife Helen Lasichanh were among the stars that came out to celebrate @rimowa’s first pop-up concept shop. The space, which is located on Rodeo Drive in Beverly Hills, draws inspiration from airport luggage carousels and lounge areas – and features the company’s luggage and accessories. If the pop-up is successful it could pave the way for addition temporary shops throughout the world. #wwdfashion (📷: Owen Kolasinski/BFA)
@carineroitfeld celebrated @crfashionbook’s first calendar last night with a dinner party at Spring Place in Manhattan. Photographed by @stevenkleinstudio, the calendar takes on a fitness theme and features @joansmalls, @gigihadid, @danielle_herrington_ – pictured here – and more. “[Carine Roitfeld] wanted me to feel sexy and she wanted me to be myself and feel it out on my own and do what I felt was right,” said Herrington, aka Miss October. #wwdeye
@saintrecords and @virgilabloh last night at @americanexpress’ “A Night With Success Makers” event. “I always bring it back to community because without that I wouldn’t have the courage,” said Knowles when asked how she has gotten where she is now. Read more highlights from their conversation on WWD.com. #wwdeye (📷: @lizdoupnik)
This Just In: Industry sources have told WWD that Anastasia Soare is rumored to be considering selling her beauty business, @anastasiabeverlyhills. According to those sources, Soare has tapped investment bank Imperial Capital to explore sale options for her eponymous beauty brand –– and with at least $340 million in net sales, this would be a big deal. Put in context of other recent transactions for makeup companies, Soare’s price tag could be in the billions if she were to sell the whole thing. #wwdnews #wwdbeauty (📷: @clint_spaulding)
@assouline’s latest book, “The Spirit of Bentley: Be Extraordinary” captures the adventurous attitudes and opulent lifestyles of @bentleymotors’ most creative owners and enthusiasts throughout the U.K. The 292-page hardcover has a section dedicated to showing its team of skilled artisans and photos of its most colorful owners, from George Bamford to designer @alicetemperley, pictured here by Aline Coquelle. #wwdeye
@google released its report on the most popular search terms this year. For fashion brands, the list was led by @gucci, the luxury brand that stunned the market last October when it pledged to stop using fur. Runner ups were @supremenewyork and @fashionnova, along with more established brands like @louisvuitton, @chanelofficial and @ysl. #wwdfashion (📷: @aitorrosasphoto)
In yet another fashion show shuffle, @elleryland is moving its show in sync with the Paris couture calendar — though the brand is still keeping one foot on the city’s ready-to-wear schedule. Their runway show in January will coincide with the launch of a new strategy: designing two main collections each year instead of four, which will then be released in four drops. “As we all know, the system needs to change. We need to show sooner to give time back to artisans and designers to do what they do best — create,” said founder Kym Ellery. #wwdnews #wwdfashion (📷: @kukukuba)
@maxmara’s classic 101801 coat was the cornerstone of its pre-fall 2018 collection. The design team expanded the traditional double-breasted, kimono-sleeved style into a trapeze coat, lean belted styles and a peacoat and presented them in monochromatic looks – like the camel one pictured here. #wwdfashion #prefall18 (📷: George Chinsee)