Unlike many Germans her age, 30-year-old Katja Will already has a long line of professional credits behind her. And most of them not only sound like something you’d see on TV, they were, as in MTV, Viva and Nickelodeon, where she spent six years as a stylist, as well as developing and running special projects like MTV’s Designerama. Indeed, MTV was pivotal to both her career and personal life. It was where she met many of her current team, not least of all her husband, Michael Will. It is he who manages their fashion business, C’est Tout, and, according to the designer, was the label’s initiator.
“At one point, my husband said, ‘Why not take the creativity you give to others and use it for us?’” she recalled.
Based in Berlin and manufactured in Cottbus, C’est Tout premiered for spring 2007. It owes its name to Coco Chanel, “who said a dress is all a woman needs. And dresses are what I wanted to make,” Will explained, though to a new beat. “Music styling goes just so far. It has a certain look and I was after another caliber.”
Starting with a pure jersey approach, Will’s aim was to provide wearable dresses with a twist and at affordable prices. C’est Tout has since evolved into a full collection in various fabrics, with fall dresses retailing at about 269 euros (or $350), jackets up to 530 euros or $690 (in patchwork fox) and her popular leather leggings fetching 290 euros ($375). Summing up next season, she talked of “a more subtle sex appeal” with touches ofthe late Sixties, the Fifties and Seventies.”
Entering its 10th season, C’est Tout is carried in about 80 doors throughout Europe, including Germany’s A Propos, Slips, Felsenkirchen and Engelhorn. There are also two C’est Tout boutiques in Berlin, and while Will’s look has cross-border appeal, she’s focusing on the homefront. “Why have one door in cities all over the world when theoretically every German city with a population of 10,000 to 15,000 is a potential place for us?” asked Will. “Opening other markets means growing internally, and you don’t conquer new countries overnight. That’s why doing our first runway show in Berlin this season is our next step…to reach those here who don’t yet know us.”
— Melissa Drier
Eva & Bernard
When Nait Rosenfelder and Roey Vollman traded Tel Aviv for Berlin, they didn’t merely switch emotional, political, geographic, stylistic and temperate climes. The married couple, who’d previously worked in separate fields and now wanted to become professional partners, saw the move as a chance to “start over. From scratch. Berlin is probably the only place in Europe you can do that,” said Vollman.
A founding member of Israel’s young designer movement, the largely self-trained Rosenfelder pioneered the independent boutique movement in Tel Aviv’s old textile district with her signature shop in 2002. As a journalist, Vollman’s main beats were sport and culture, particularly literature, which prompted the Bernard (as in Austrian writer Thomas Bernhard) of their label. As for Eva, “She was a real person in Nait’s life and a Berliner,” Vollman explained, though both names are a way “of adopting alter egos, different identities. They’re part of the fantasy,” said Rosenfelder, who heads design. Vollman oversees the rest.
One of the biggest changes since coming to Berlin has been fabrics. “People underestimate how much inspiration you can get from fabric,” Vollman said. Wool not only became possible but necessary for the label, and next season, Rosenfelder will be using velvet for the first time.
Stylistically, Eva & Bernard belongs to Berlin’s growing “clean fashion” camp. The collection, in its third season for fall, features more color and texture, and has softer, more flowing contours. “There are still architectural shapes, but this time, it’s a sort of ellipse,” Rosenfelder said. “You can see this element in everything.”
Produced in Italy, wholesale prices range from 70 euros or about $90 to 275 euros or $360. The brand is represented internationally by agent Elfie Klemann in Germany and Edité in New York. The duo will present an Eva & Bernard fashion film directed by Aviv Koslof during fashion week in Berlin, and the 35-piece collection will also be shown in Copenhagen.
@tradesy is turning the concept of a showroom upside down with its new space in Santa Monica. Here, the company plans to hold events, art exhibits and a showcase rare fashion pieces like this Louis Vuitton boxing set. Get all the details on Tradesy’s first showroom on WWD.com. #wwdnews
Spotted last night at the @erdem x @hm launch event: Kate Bosworth, Rashida Jones, Kirsten Dunst and Selma Blair. The party, which took place in LA, also marked the opening of their pop-up shop. “I was interested in creating a collection that wasn’t in any way disposable. It was about pieces you’d create and keep forever, things that have a permanence to it,” designer Erdem Moralioglu said. #wwdeye (📷: Katie Jones)
Renee Zellweger in yellow in 2001 and again in 2017. Chosen as one of the 12 @pantone Leading Spring Colors (and dubbed “Meadowlark”), it only makes sense that the bright hue stands the test of time and is making a resurgence this season, seen already on stars like @blakelively and @gigihadid. (📷: Donato Sardello & @rexfeatures) #wwdfashion #tbt
Dior’s 70th anniversary celebration continues with a new exhibition at the Royal Ontario Museum in Toronto. “Christian Dior,” which is scheduled to run through March 18, takes a look at the founders tenure from 1947 to 1057 and feature 40 designs. Pictured here is an evening gown from the Ailée, fall 1948-49 haute couture collection. #wwdfashion (📷: Brian Boyle)
As one of the most recognizable models in the world, Christy Turlington Burns has an insider’s view of the fashion industry and the allegations of sexual harassment swirling around it. “I can say that harassment and mistreatment have always been widely known and tolerated in the industry. The industry is surrounded by predators who thrive on the constant rejection and loneliness so many of us have experiences at some point in our careers,” Turlington told WWD, along with her suggestions for how the modeling world should protect younger women and men. Read more on WWD.com. Link in bio. (📷: Tony Palmieri) #wwdnews
@asics America has tapped a new brand ambassador: famed DJ/record producer @steveaoki. This initiative is intended to set the tone for the new brand identity and philosophy and will include partnerships with influencers and in-store and off-line activations that will continue into next year. This is Asics’ most significant marketing effort in two decades, and is expected to attract younger consumers to the brand. #wwdfashion
24-year-old Jean Prounis is redefining the rules of jewelry. Formerly a studio assistant to Jemima Kirke and a design apprentice at Ghuran, she focuses on handcrafted subtleties and ancient goldsmithing techniques. “There was a really sterile feel in the environment and I wanted to have jewelry with character that shapes how you wear it everyday,” Prounis said. Each piece is hand made in New York, either by Prounis or three other jewelers in the district. #wwdfashion
“These collections continue to build on that vision, empowering differently abled adults to express themselves through fashion,” said @tommyhilfiger of his line of adaptive apparel, which launches today. The line consists of 37 men’s and 34 women’s styles based upon the pieces from the spring Tommy Hilfiger sportswear collection. #wwdnews