Now in its third season, the Who Is On Next contest organized by Italian Vogue and Alta Roma has become a tried-and-true measure for new talent. Here, a look at the winners of this year's edition, a crop of young and not-so-young designers with varied backgrounds. Who Is On Next will be presented next Thursday from 9:15 a.m. to noon at Milano Moda Donna, Spazio Presentazioni.
Carta e Costura
This six-month-old line hails from the on-the-set encounter between costume designer Alessandra Carta, 40, and makeup artist Rita Fiorentino, 32.
In fashion terms, the pair blend different aesthetics, historical periods and silhouettes that can range from Joan of Arc-style dresses to black coats à la Tilda Swinton in "Orlando."
"My background is designing costumes from past eras, but I've always wanted to try my hand at more contemporary looks," said Carta. "With this new line, we want to bind the fascination of the past with the practicality of the future."
Spring focuses on short silk dresses with ruches and tucks in dusty gray, taupe and mauve.
Carta e Costura has already grabbed some attention from buyers and editors, and the duo also plans to stage a presentation during Paris Fashion Week. Final prices were not available at press time.
When Sara Lanzi, 37, decided to strike out on her own in 2004, she wanted to do it as an independent.
After earning a degree in the history of contemporary art in 2000 in Viterbo, Lanzi garnered her experience designing for Carpe Diem, a high-end ready-to-wear line based in Perugia.
"I wanted to start a project that represented me in the best way possible and the desire to create a compact closet for women," she said.
Lanzi says her vision is rigorous but not rigid. Her fashion philosophy revolves around seasonless pieces, especially basics like sleek jackets and dresses that maximize Italy's sartorial tradition. She typically shuns glitzy embellishment and embraces minimalism.
Spring highlights include lots of cotton gauze and reed matting for everyday pieces, while silk voile and organdy give substance to more elaborate eveningwear.Wholesale prices run from $140 to $550.
Born in Cairo to an Italian father and German-Croatian mother, Sergio Zambon grew up between Cairo, Rome and London. After graduating from the Institute of European Design, the designer was tapped by Fendi to spearhead its Fendissime diffusion line.
In 2005, he made his solo debut with Soft Core, which he describes as "classy streetwear.
"As the name implies, the line joins the softness of chic clothes with the harshness of function," said Zambon, who is based in Rome. Cases in point are mixes of contrasting fabrics like cotton, silk and cashmere with denim, nylon and fleece.
For spring, he revisited the Sixties and Eighties via graphic silhouettes, invisible closures and fastenings, and a color wheel filled with black, khaki and flashes of sunflower yellow.
The line is carried by Harvey Nichols in Hong Kong, Baycrew in Tokyo and Degli Effetti in Rome. Wholesale prices range from $104 for a blouse to $416 for a jacket and $200 for a dress.
@chanel and @pharrell dropped what’s being dubbed as the world’s most exclusive sneakers yesterday. The Adidas Originals NMD Hu, which Williams designed in collaboration with Chanel and @adidasoriginals, has a waiting list of over 120K people who pre-registered online at chanelatcolette.fr –– and only 500 pairs are on sale. The singer predicted the resale value of the shoes could reach $40K. Read the full interview on WWD.com. Link in bio. #wwdfashion (📷: Dominique Maître)
@imanshumpert is diving deeper into his creative endeavors and relaunching his clothing line, Post 90s, and is helping to raise money for the hurricane victims in St. Maarten with a jersey he’s designed with his brother. The Cleveland Cavaliers player talked to WWD about kneeling during the national anthem, working with fashion brands and how he wants to be more than an @nba player. Read the interview on WWD.com #wwdfashion (📷: George Chinese)
Not only does #TheProfit return to CNBC tonight, but @marcuslemonis has launched @shopmarcus, a new shopping and lifestyle retail experience in Aspen and Chicago, with more locations to come. The retail stores offer in-store stylists and a variety of contemporary womenswear selections.
“It’s life, I’m going to face it,” @mingxi11 sighed. “I fell, but you know, I think the most important thing is that I get back up. I had the love, the help from my sister — the girl next to me Gizele [Oliveira] — she’s so nice. When I went backstage everybody was trying to comfort me like ‘Oh Ming, it’s OK.’ I’m really, really touched. I think it’s them who gave me the courage to go back on stage for the finale,” Xi told WWD of her fall at the @victoriassecret fashion show. (📷: David Fisher) #wwdfashion #vsfashionshow #victoriassecret
@louisvuitton tapped @therealpeterlindbergh for its latest city-centric photo book, which is part of a series called Fashion Eye. The primarily black and white book captures the spirit of Berlin in 57 images shot between 1989 and 2019. “Berlin is an inspiration for me, more than a city. I mean @millajovovich is simply Berlin!” said Lindbergh. #wwdfashion
“You know, I think audiences expect a certain performance so I have to deliver to them what they’re expecting to a certain degree. But I’m also a different actor and a different person, I have my own spin on the character,” says @noahegalvin of his takeover of the leading role in “Dear Evan Hansen” following the departure of @bensplatt, who originated the role. Read WWD’s interview with the 23-year-old actor on WWD.com #wwdeye (📷: @jilliansollazzo)
For pre-fall 2018, @etro created richly-colored wonderland, using tapestries, textiles and wallpapers from the Eastern world at large. The line featured floral and graphic prints and jacquard motifs, like this two-piece look featured here. #wwdfashion (📷: Giovanna Pavesi)
@kith is moving into children’s. The men’s and women’s streetwear brand has launched Kidset, a Kith kids line located in New York at 64 Bleecker Street. The line includes mini versions of staple Kith pieces like the Astor bomber jacket and the Kith box logo sweatshirts, along with a wall that can display up to 120 pairs of shoes from @adidas, @newbalance, @timberland and more. #wwdfashion
“I just wanted to create this fully rounded character, but I do think what excited me most was just the opportunity to give a group of people representation that I feel needs it. I like to do characters in projects that stand for something and Karolina definitely does, so that was really exciting to me,” @ginnygardner says of her new role in @hulu’s “The Runaways.” Gardner plays Karolina Dean, a queer superhero, which is a rarity for @marvel. Read more about Gardner’s character on WWD.com #wwdeye (📷: @dandoperalski)