The Central Saint Martins alumna came to prominence two seasons ago via the Fashion East incubator for young talent, and has since attracted the attentions of Biba, where she's scored a knitwear consultancy starting with the spring collection.
Goldin's signature knits are the opposite of cozy. For her fall collection she whipped up body-conscious rollneck sweater dresses with intarsia patterns, some with sheer panels on the chest and others worn with swathes of black wool as veils. This season, Goldin will stage her first on-schedule show in a joint presentation with fellow Brit Danielle Scutt. For spring, Goldin plans to experiment with a brighter color palette than she's used in the past, and has been inspired by Wassily Kandinsky's abstract paintings.
The label's designer, German- born Markus Lupfer, is a London Fashion Week veteran, having shown his eponymous label here until he took a two-year hiatus in 2003 to work for Katie Hillier, Cacharel and Mulberry. While the designer has returned to producing his signature collection, he has also taken on the women's wear design helm at Barcelona-based Armand Basi. Lupfer has used his voluminous, playful silhouettes to update the 20-year-old label, which now features puff-sleeve satin cocktail dresses and cocoon coats. His spring collection is set to take a boy-meets-girl stance, riffing on themes from Jackson Pollock to Samurai warriors.
Richard Ascott and Philip Colbert may have garnered the fashion world's attention with a spot of grandstanding — like parading around with parasols at previous shows in London, and forming their own rock band. Their first full collection was for fall, and it offered ornate, draped print dresses, sculpted wool skirts and coats that attracted stockists including Barneys New York, Maxfields and Selfridges. Not bad for a couple of art history and philosophy graduates who have no formal fashion training. Following their spring show, Rodnik will once again morph into a rock band and perform at the Topshop flagship in Oxford Circus.
Known for his deft, simple cuts and touches of volume — a ruffle at the hem of a gray wool jacket, a pencil skirt gently flared at the hips — Yousefzada, a Central Saint Martins graduate, has managed his transition from investment banker to designer with aplomb. He's also reeled in the buyers — Saks Fifth Avenue, Fred Segal, Selfridges and Liberty all carry his collection. For spring, Spanish fast-fashion giant Mango will offer the designer its London flagship as a show venue.Louise Gray
While the Scotland-born Gray will show her collection as part of Fashion East for the first time since graduating from Central Saint Martins this year, she's no stranger to runway exposure. Her bold embroidery has adorned clothing by labels including Lanvin and Diane von Furstenberg. Her graduate collection last season featured blocks of colored embroidery in primary colors, as well as textured wool pom-poms on delicate silk shifts. Her first full collection, for spring, takes its cue from the work of Paul Klee.
Abdul Koroma and Andrew Jones, both graduates of Kingston University, met in 2000 when they were working as consultants at MaxMara. After reaching the final stage of London's Fashion Fringe competition in 2005, the duo went on to produce a monochrome collection of deconstructed dresses, jackets and capes for fall 2007, which reference silhouettes such as the wrap dress from the Seventies and a Marlene Dietrich-esque tuxedo jacket. Modernist will show on the schedule for the first time at London Fashion Week this season, and the spring collection is set to feature punky fallen angels, in the vein of Siouxsie and the Banshees.
London's anarchic spirit is alive and well in the customized collections of Noki, a label designed by the Brighton-based designer JJ Hudson. "I aim to stage an assault on the homogeneity of mass-produced, globalized ready-to-wear," says Hudson. The designer will show his collection for the first time as part of Fashion East. His past pieces have included shredded Nirvana T-shirts and thigh-high leather boots made from motorcycle trousers. But despite his rejection of mass fashion, the designer isn't above collaborating with the big brands. He customized the accessories for Luella's fall 2007 show with dreadlocks and graffiti, and he's just released a quilted black and orange leather shoe with Kickers.
Olowu, a Nigerian-born former lawyer, used to be famous for his silk print dresses. That was until last season, when his debut at London Fashion Week showcased bold black and lilac African prints on Sixties-style swing coats and color-blocked jersey dresses. Now, the designer counts Barneys New York, Jeffrey and Liberty among his retailer clients, and he's set to open his own revamped Portobello Road store during fashion week. His spring collection will contrast sharp tailoring with floaty silhouettes, and take its cues from what the designer calls "old-school romance."
@chanel and @pharrell dropped what’s being dubbed as the world’s most exclusive sneakers yesterday. The Adidas Originals NMD Hu, which Williams designed in collaboration with Chanel and @adidasoriginals, has a waiting list of over 120K people who pre-registered online at chanelatcolette.fr –– and only 500 pairs are on sale. The singer predicted the resale value of the shoes could reach $40K. Read the full interview on WWD.com. Link in bio. #wwdfashion
@imanshumpert is diving deeper into his creative endeavors and relaunching his clothing line, Post 90s, and is helping to raise money for the hurricane victims in St. Maarten with a jersey he’s designed with his brother. The Cleveland Cavaliers player talked to WWD about kneeling during the national anthem, working with fashion brands and how he wants to be more than an @nba player. Read the interview on WWD.com #wwdfashion (📷: George Chinese)
Not only does #TheProfit return to CNBC tonight, but @marcuslemonis has launched @shopmarcus, a new shopping and lifestyle retail experience in Aspen and Chicago, with more locations to come. The retail stores offer in-store stylists and a variety of contemporary womenswear selections.
“It’s life, I’m going to face it,” @mingxi11 sighed. “I fell, but you know, I think the most important thing is that I get back up. I had the love, the help from my sister — the girl next to me Gizele [Oliveira] — she’s so nice. When I went backstage everybody was trying to comfort me like ‘Oh Ming, it’s OK.’ I’m really, really touched. I think it’s them who gave me the courage to go back on stage for the finale,” Xi told WWD of her fall at the @victoriassecret fashion show. (📷: David Fisher) #wwdfashion #vsfashionshow #victoriassecret
@louisvuitton tapped @therealpeterlindbergh for its latest city-centric photo book, which is part of a series called Fashion Eye. The primarily black and white book captures the spirit of Berlin in 57 images shot between 1989 and 2019. “Berlin is an inspiration for me, more than a city. I mean @millajovovich is simply Berlin!” said Lindbergh. #wwdfashion
“You know, I think audiences expect a certain performance so I have to deliver to them what they’re expecting to a certain degree. But I’m also a different actor and a different person, I have my own spin on the character,” says @noahegalvin of his takeover of the leading role in “Dear Evan Hansen” following the departure of @bensplatt, who originated the role. Read WWD’s interview with the 23-year-old actor on WWD.com #wwdeye (📷: @jilliansollazzo)
For pre-fall 2018, @etro created richly-colored wonderland, using tapestries, textiles and wallpapers from the Eastern world at large. The line featured floral and graphic prints and jacquard motifs, like this two-piece look featured here. #wwdfashion (📷: Giovanna Pavesi)
@kith is moving into children’s. The men’s and women’s streetwear brand has launched Kidset, a Kith kids line located in New York at 64 Bleecker Street. The line includes mini versions of staple Kith pieces like the Astor bomber jacket and the Kith box logo sweatshirts, along with a wall that can display up to 120 pairs of shoes from @adidas, @newbalance, @timberland and more. #wwdfashion
“I just wanted to create this fully rounded character, but I do think what excited me most was just the opportunity to give a group of people representation that I feel needs it. I like to do characters in projects that stand for something and Karolina definitely does, so that was really exciting to me,” @ginnygardner says of her new role in @hulu’s “The Runaways.” Gardner plays Karolina Dean, a queer superhero, which is a rarity for @marvel. Read more about Gardner’s character on WWD.com #wwdeye (📷: @dandoperalski)