Louise Goldin

The Central Saint Martins alumna came to prominence two seasons ago via the Fashion East incubator for young talent, and has since attracted the attentions of Biba, where she's scored a knitwear consultancy starting with the spring collection.

Goldin's signature knits are the opposite of cozy. For her fall collection she whipped up body-conscious rollneck sweater dresses with intarsia patterns, some with sheer panels on the chest and others worn with swathes of black wool as veils. This season, Goldin will stage her first on-schedule show in a joint presentation with fellow Brit Danielle Scutt. For spring, Goldin plans to experiment with a brighter color palette than she's used in the past, and has been inspired by Wassily Kandinsky's abstract paintings.

Armand Basi

The label's designer, German- born Markus Lupfer, is a London Fashion Week veteran, having shown his eponymous label here until he took a two-year hiatus in 2003 to work for Katie Hillier, Cacharel and Mulberry. While the designer has returned to producing his signature collection, he has also taken on the women's wear design helm at Barcelona-based Armand Basi. Lupfer has used his voluminous, playful silhouettes to update the 20-year-old label, which now features puff-sleeve satin cocktail dresses and cocoon coats. His spring collection is set to take a boy-meets-girl stance, riffing on themes from Jackson Pollock to Samurai warriors.


Richard Ascott and Philip Colbert may have garnered the fashion world's attention with a spot of grandstanding — like parading around with parasols at previous shows in London, and forming their own rock band. Their first full collection was for fall, and it offered ornate, draped print dresses, sculpted wool skirts and coats that attracted stockists including Barneys New York, Maxfields and Selfridges. Not bad for a couple of art history and philosophy graduates who have no formal fashion training. Following their spring show, Rodnik will once again morph into a rock band and perform at the Topshop flagship in Oxford Circus.

Osman Yousefzada

Known for his deft, simple cuts and touches of volume — a ruffle at the hem of a gray wool jacket, a pencil skirt gently flared at the hips — Yousefzada, a Central Saint Martins graduate, has managed his transition from investment banker to designer with aplomb. He's also reeled in the buyers — Saks Fifth Avenue, Fred Segal, Selfridges and Liberty all carry his collection. For spring, Spanish fast-fashion giant Mango will offer the designer its London flagship as a show venue.Louise Gray

While the Scotland-born Gray will show her collection as part of Fashion East for the first time since graduating from Central Saint Martins this year, she's no stranger to runway exposure. Her bold embroidery has adorned clothing by labels including Lanvin and Diane von Furstenberg. Her graduate collection last season featured blocks of colored embroidery in primary colors, as well as textured wool pom-poms on delicate silk shifts. Her first full collection, for spring, takes its cue from the work of Paul Klee.


Abdul Koroma and Andrew Jones, both graduates of Kingston University, met in 2000 when they were working as consultants at MaxMara. After reaching the final stage of London's Fashion Fringe competition in 2005, the duo went on to produce a monochrome collection of deconstructed dresses, jackets and capes for fall 2007, which reference silhouettes such as the wrap dress from the Seventies and a Marlene Dietrich-esque tuxedo jacket. Modernist will show on the schedule for the first time at London Fashion Week this season, and the spring collection is set to feature punky fallen angels, in the vein of Siouxsie and the Banshees.


London's anarchic spirit is alive and well in the customized collections of Noki, a label designed by the Brighton-based designer JJ Hudson. "I aim to stage an assault on the homogeneity of mass-produced, globalized ready-to-wear," says Hudson. The designer will show his collection for the first time as part of Fashion East. His past pieces have included shredded Nirvana T-shirts and thigh-high leather boots made from motorcycle trousers. But despite his rejection of mass fashion, the designer isn't above collaborating with the big brands. He customized the accessories for Luella's fall 2007 show with dreadlocks and graffiti, and he's just released a quilted black and orange leather shoe with Kickers.

Duro Olowu

Olowu, a Nigerian-born former lawyer, used to be famous for his silk print dresses. That was until last season, when his debut at London Fashion Week showcased bold black and lilac African prints on Sixties-style swing coats and color-blocked jersey dresses. Now, the designer counts Barneys New York, Jeffrey and Liberty among his retailer clients, and he's set to open his own revamped Portobello Road store during fashion week. His spring collection will contrast sharp tailoring with floaty silhouettes, and take its cues from what the designer calls "old-school romance."

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