The Central Saint Martins alumna came to prominence two seasons ago via the Fashion East incubator for young talent, and has since attracted the attentions of Biba, where she's scored a knitwear consultancy starting with the spring collection.
Goldin's signature knits are the opposite of cozy. For her fall collection she whipped up body-conscious rollneck sweater dresses with intarsia patterns, some with sheer panels on the chest and others worn with swathes of black wool as veils. This season, Goldin will stage her first on-schedule show in a joint presentation with fellow Brit Danielle Scutt. For spring, Goldin plans to experiment with a brighter color palette than she's used in the past, and has been inspired by Wassily Kandinsky's abstract paintings.
The label's designer, German- born Markus Lupfer, is a London Fashion Week veteran, having shown his eponymous label here until he took a two-year hiatus in 2003 to work for Katie Hillier, Cacharel and Mulberry. While the designer has returned to producing his signature collection, he has also taken on the women's wear design helm at Barcelona-based Armand Basi. Lupfer has used his voluminous, playful silhouettes to update the 20-year-old label, which now features puff-sleeve satin cocktail dresses and cocoon coats. His spring collection is set to take a boy-meets-girl stance, riffing on themes from Jackson Pollock to Samurai warriors.
Richard Ascott and Philip Colbert may have garnered the fashion world's attention with a spot of grandstanding — like parading around with parasols at previous shows in London, and forming their own rock band. Their first full collection was for fall, and it offered ornate, draped print dresses, sculpted wool skirts and coats that attracted stockists including Barneys New York, Maxfields and Selfridges. Not bad for a couple of art history and philosophy graduates who have no formal fashion training. Following their spring show, Rodnik will once again morph into a rock band and perform at the Topshop flagship in Oxford Circus.
Known for his deft, simple cuts and touches of volume — a ruffle at the hem of a gray wool jacket, a pencil skirt gently flared at the hips — Yousefzada, a Central Saint Martins graduate, has managed his transition from investment banker to designer with aplomb. He's also reeled in the buyers — Saks Fifth Avenue, Fred Segal, Selfridges and Liberty all carry his collection. For spring, Spanish fast-fashion giant Mango will offer the designer its London flagship as a show venue.
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