Devastee Designers Ophelie Klere, 25, and François Alary, 26, have a thing for black comedy. To wit: As they take their collection to the Paris runway for the first time, they have found inspiration in the late playwright Sarah Kane, who committed suicide after writing some very intense theater. But with a collection based on feminine silk and satin dresses, Devastée will probably have brighter days ahead. "The collection is cool, calm, dark and funny," said Klere. The duo founded their line in 2003, and it is carried by such stores as Hong Kong's Lane Crawford and Paris' Surface to Air.
Delfina Delettrez Fendi A creative destiny is more or less a given for any progeny of the Fendi family. But it wasn't until she became pregnant with her first child in December that 19-year-old Delfina Delettrez Fendi embarked on her contribution to the family story.
"It's kind of been like two births," mused Fendi, who had her daughter, Emma, in August, and who will unveil her first jewelry collection at Colette on Oct. 1. The 200-piece line, priced from $400 for a ring to $3,000 for a necklace, forks into two stories: skulls and, on a lighter note, animals, both explored in offbeat combinations of noble and common materials. Gold, silver and diamonds coexist with leather, bone and wood.
Iridescent "pop" colors fend off macabre associations, she says of the skull line, inspired by the spooky wartime stories recounted by her grandmother, Anna. Her granny's antique crucifixes also influenced Fendi's designs, while having been raised between Rome and Rio de Janeiro explains her penchant for "the tropical shades of Brazil." Any teething problems, Fendi conceded, arose in the technical bits, such as sketching the pieces. Her father, the French jeweler Bernard Delettrez, served as her interpreter. "He's totally intuitive about my designs," she said. Her friend, actress Asia Argento, meanwhile, has stepped in to direct the brand's promotional film, to be screened at the launch. The work features Fendi and her younger sister, Leonetta.
Estrella Archs Cacharel's new artistic director, 33-year-old Estrella Archs, will mark her catwalk debut with the launch of a signature line, financed by Cacharel, where she worked from 2000 to 2002 as design director.Archs' conceptual collection is inspired by the four elements. Cloud-like fabric trims a knitted suede tunic, which has irregular braids to resemble watery streams. Representing air, a "wind coat" in lightweight tweed raffia polyurethane puffs away from the body.
"I even used a burner to scorch silk for the fire theme. It's the kind of thing you can only get away with doing in Italy," quipped the Spanish designer, formerly known as Esther Angula. Lyria's Riccardo Bruni designed the collection's fabrics.
A shoe line also will bow in the collection, as well as an oversize bag "big enough to fit your boyfriend in," Archs said.
The designer's Spanish roots can be found in the form of fluid, poncho-inspired dresses and a dramatic flamenco skirt — "because that's my earth," she said.
Out of India The addition of two Indian designers to Paris Fashion Week promises to be a vibrant affair.
Manish Arora, who launched his brand in 2001, is rerouting from London, where he's been showing for three seasons. "In India, we're so used to colors," trilled Arora, who called in from Delhi as he was putting the final tweaks on his collection, an "Indian take on Pop Art."
"I've used a lot of Seventies silhouettes printed with images from the era, but using intricate Indian embroidery," he explained. Certain embroidered prints are inspired by Roy Lichtenstein, for example. Elsewhere, psychedelic hues run riot.
"I've used a lot of [innovative] woven fabrics," said Arora, adding that some of the more spectacular looks were crafted in collaboration with Swarovski.
Anamika Khanna, who is bringing her three-year-old eponymous label to Paris for the first time, conjured up the feel of "Indian royalty traveling the world" for her collection. "Indian textiles techniques remain the base, with a contemporary twist," said Khanna, adding that she sees Paris as the perfect venue for more craft-oriented labels. Encompassing lighter spring elements such as skirts, dresses and summer coats, the collection also includes a "larger-than-life" take on the ancient Indian silhouette, the angrakha.Commuun With eco-friendly fashion riding a wave of popularity, Commuun, the Paris-based brand with an environmentally friendly touch, is taking its collection to the runway for the first time, on Oct. 1 at the Atelier Richelieu.
"We find it a more feminine collection," said Kaito Hori, surveying the racks of featherweight creations with his co-designer, Iku Furudate, at their sunny studio in Paris.
The collection promises to be clean and minimal with a focus on the brand's signature pantsuits. But there is also a feminine touch, thanks to voluminous monochrome minidresses layered with chiffon and ultralight organic cotton, and draped robes in Japanese paper fabrics. "We were partly inspired by Thirties fashion," said Furudate of the mostly white collection, which is jazzed up with a flash of purple or light blue. Meanwhile, the designers said they are working on a shoe and bag line for next season, as well as a new knitwear offering. At present, the brand is distributed in 15 doors, including Saks Fifth Avenue, Bergdorf Goodman, Dover Street Market in London and Shine in Tokyo.
@chanel and @pharrell dropped what’s being dubbed as the world’s most exclusive sneakers yesterday. The Adidas Originals NMD Hu, which Williams designed in collaboration with Chanel and @adidasoriginals, has a waiting list of over 120K people who pre-registered online at chanelatcolette.fr –– and only 500 pairs are on sale. The singer predicted the resale value of the shoes could reach $40K. Read the full interview on WWD.com. Link in bio. #wwdfashion (📷: Dominique Maître)
@imanshumpert is diving deeper into his creative endeavors and relaunching his clothing line, Post 90s, and is helping to raise money for the hurricane victims in St. Maarten with a jersey he’s designed with his brother. The Cleveland Cavaliers player talked to WWD about kneeling during the national anthem, working with fashion brands and how he wants to be more than an @nba player. Read the interview on WWD.com #wwdfashion (📷: George Chinese)
Not only does #TheProfit return to CNBC tonight, but @marcuslemonis has launched @shopmarcus, a new shopping and lifestyle retail experience in Aspen and Chicago, with more locations to come. The retail stores offer in-store stylists and a variety of contemporary womenswear selections.
“It’s life, I’m going to face it,” @mingxi11 sighed. “I fell, but you know, I think the most important thing is that I get back up. I had the love, the help from my sister — the girl next to me Gizele [Oliveira] — she’s so nice. When I went backstage everybody was trying to comfort me like ‘Oh Ming, it’s OK.’ I’m really, really touched. I think it’s them who gave me the courage to go back on stage for the finale,” Xi told WWD of her fall at the @victoriassecret fashion show. (📷: David Fisher) #wwdfashion #vsfashionshow #victoriassecret
@louisvuitton tapped @therealpeterlindbergh for its latest city-centric photo book, which is part of a series called Fashion Eye. The primarily black and white book captures the spirit of Berlin in 57 images shot between 1989 and 2019. “Berlin is an inspiration for me, more than a city. I mean @millajovovich is simply Berlin!” said Lindbergh. #wwdfashion
“You know, I think audiences expect a certain performance so I have to deliver to them what they’re expecting to a certain degree. But I’m also a different actor and a different person, I have my own spin on the character,” says @noahegalvin of his takeover of the leading role in “Dear Evan Hansen” following the departure of @bensplatt, who originated the role. Read WWD’s interview with the 23-year-old actor on WWD.com #wwdeye (📷: @jilliansollazzo)
For pre-fall 2018, @etro created richly-colored wonderland, using tapestries, textiles and wallpapers from the Eastern world at large. The line featured floral and graphic prints and jacquard motifs, like this two-piece look featured here. #wwdfashion (📷: Giovanna Pavesi)
@kith is moving into children’s. The men’s and women’s streetwear brand has launched Kidset, a Kith kids line located in New York at 64 Bleecker Street. The line includes mini versions of staple Kith pieces like the Astor bomber jacket and the Kith box logo sweatshirts, along with a wall that can display up to 120 pairs of shoes from @adidas, @newbalance, @timberland and more. #wwdfashion
“I just wanted to create this fully rounded character, but I do think what excited me most was just the opportunity to give a group of people representation that I feel needs it. I like to do characters in projects that stand for something and Karolina definitely does, so that was really exciting to me,” @ginnygardner says of her new role in @hulu’s “The Runaways.” Gardner plays Karolina Dean, a queer superhero, which is a rarity for @marvel. Read more about Gardner’s character on WWD.com #wwdeye (📷: @dandoperalski)