LONDON — Christopher Bailey is taking the rough with the smooth this season with a Burberry London collection that’s filled with sharply tailored woolens and soft washed silks, structured tweeds and fluttery velvet devoré...
LONDON — Christopher Bailey is taking the rough with the smooth this season with a Burberry London collection that’s filled with sharply tailored woolens and soft washed silks, structured tweeds and fluttery velvet devoré fabrics.
“I wanted a combination of functional military pieces and soft, feminine ones,” said Bailey during an interview at the Burberry headquarters here. “And, as always, we want the collection to be classic, traditional — and youthful.”
At retail, Burberry London is sold alongside the Burberry Prorsum collection, which is shown in Milan, although it’s slightly more commercial and less expensive. “It’s very important that there’s a link between the two collections. I want the customer who walks into the store to feel one mood, and to see one environment.”
As always, Bailey started with the company’s iconic trenchcoat for Burberry London. There are lightweight tweed coats with no epaulets, tobacco-toned washed leather ones, suede styles and others made from metallic leather that glisten like their wet. “I wanted them to look like they’ve been rained on,” said Bailey with a big smile.
The designer also turned to regimental looks for inspiration, slimming down military coats and taking the bulk out of army jackets. “I wanted them sexy, feminine and romantic,” he said. There are long, olive green overcoats and short jackets with epaulets that follow a woman’s curves.
On a lighter note, there are fluttery washed silk dresses with ruffles spilling down the front, and sexy skirts made from the same lightweight, wrinkly fabric. William Morris-inspired nature prints wind their way across velvet devoré skirts and onto silk jacquard coats, while water flower prints bloom across chiffon dresses.
Colors are rich and not for the faint of heart, including burnt orange, olive, tobacco, deep sapphire, citrine and garnet. The William Morris prints carry over from the main collection, as do fabrics such as Mongolian lamb for shearling coats and gilets; variations on velvet for skirts and dresses, and lightweight tweeds for skirt suits.
Bailey has been working closely with English and Scottish mills for his woolen and cotton fabrics for both the Prorsum and London lines, encouraging them to make lighter-weight fabrics, and speed up their production cycles. He sees it as a pleasure and a duty.“It’s devastating for me to watch the mills in northern England close down and turn into luxury apartments,” said the Yorkshire native. “If we can’t support our homegrown mills, then who can?”
Burberry London will be on display in the company’s Manhattan showroom on March 23.
@tradesy is turning the concept of a showroom upside down with its new space in Santa Monica. Here, the company plans to hold events, art exhibits and a showcase rare fashion pieces like this Louis Vuitton boxing set. Get all the details on Tradesy’s first showroom on WWD.com. #wwdnews
Spotted last night at the @erdem x @hm launch event: Kate Bosworth, Rashida Jones, Kirsten Dunst and Selma Blair. The party, which took place in LA, also marked the opening of their pop-up shop. “I was interested in creating a collection that wasn’t in any way disposable. It was about pieces you’d create and keep forever, things that have a permanence to it,” designer Erdem Moralioglu said. #wwdeye (📷: Katie Jones)
Renee Zellweger in yellow in 2001 and again in 2017. Chosen as one of the 12 @pantone Leading Spring Colors (and dubbed “Meadowlark”), it only makes sense that the bright hue stands the test of time and is making a resurgence this season, seen already on stars like @blakelively and @gigihadid. (📷: Donato Sardello & @rexfeatures) #wwdfashion #tbt
Dior’s 70th anniversary celebration continues with a new exhibition at the Royal Ontario Museum in Toronto. “Christian Dior,” which is scheduled to run through March 18, takes a look at the founders tenure from 1947 to 1057 and feature 40 designs. Pictured here is an evening gown from the Ailée, fall 1948-49 haute couture collection. #wwdfashion (📷: Brian Boyle)
As one of the most recognizable models in the world, Christy Turlington Burns has an insider’s view of the fashion industry and the allegations of sexual harassment swirling around it. “I can say that harassment and mistreatment have always been widely known and tolerated in the industry. The industry is surrounded by predators who thrive on the constant rejection and loneliness so many of us have experiences at some point in our careers,” Turlington told WWD, along with her suggestions for how the modeling world should protect younger women and men. Read more on WWD.com. Link in bio. (📷: Tony Palmieri) #wwdnews
@asics America has tapped a new brand ambassador: famed DJ/record producer @steveaoki. This initiative is intended to set the tone for the new brand identity and philosophy and will include partnerships with influencers and in-store and off-line activations that will continue into next year. This is Asics’ most significant marketing effort in two decades, and is expected to attract younger consumers to the brand. #wwdfashion
24-year-old Jean Prounis is redefining the rules of jewelry. Formerly a studio assistant to Jemima Kirke and a design apprentice at Ghuran, she focuses on handcrafted subtleties and ancient goldsmithing techniques. “There was a really sterile feel in the environment and I wanted to have jewelry with character that shapes how you wear it everyday,” Prounis said. Each piece is hand made in New York, either by Prounis or three other jewelers in the district. #wwdfashion
“These collections continue to build on that vision, empowering differently abled adults to express themselves through fashion,” said @tommyhilfiger of his line of adaptive apparel, which launches today. The line consists of 37 men’s and 34 women’s styles based upon the pieces from the spring Tommy Hilfiger sportswear collection. #wwdnews