MILAN — There’s something for everyone. Milanese designers certainly have it all — from dreamy, ethereal dresses to career-girl suitings to flashy numbers for those babes who like to party.

Pink and yellow mood lighting may not be the best for reviewing a collection. And a presentation-cocktail party at which the host and hostess stay so far under the radar that you can’t find them — well, that’s odd, too. But, hey, the people at Piazza Sempione are sure doing something right, because, while others are navigating in stormy seas, their business is sailing along happily with solid distribution and a faithful clientele.

Marisa Guerrizio designs for a sophisticated young woman who needs clothes for work, family outings and weekend getaways. And this season, Guerrizio offered her customer plenty of options. She can splurge on sporty zip-front cardigans, raspberry suede capris, stretch gabardine Bermuda shorts, slinky silk satin blouses and embroidered wraparound miniskirts that suit her busy lifestyle.

At Trend Les Copains, design director Antonio Marras spun a fashionable fairy tale. He created an enchanted mood with a rose-garden backdrop enveloped in mist, and a grass-covered catwalk. Out stepped his rosy-cheeked girls in a flurry of ethereal dresses that included Empire silk numbers in powder pink, flowing fishtail sheaths, Charleston-style beaded minidresses and some crafty ones with strips of puckered cotton that wrapped around the bodice.

Remember when Cerruti was about smart workday clothes? Well, in his debut collection, Los Angeles-based designer David Cardona attempted to return the label to its sartorial roots with short-shorts done in suiting fabrics, boxy white shirts and curve-accentuating jackets with leather side panels. Unlike his predecessors — Cerruti has plowed through two designers in the past year — Cardona respected the integrity of the brand and attempted to move it forward with little suede blousons and sporty cropped pants. Overall, the collection was a step in the right direction, but Cardona hasn’t captured that boardroom style yet.

Mariella Burani’s ladies, on the other hand, are more into sizzle than sensible dressing. Armed with lacquer-red pouty lips, eyes smeared with black kohl and plenty of attitude, they came out with enough prints, layers and costume jewelry to make heads spin. How about a fuchsia bra peeking out of a black lace top paired with a flouncy miniskirt? Or flamenco-style tiered skirts over footless hosiery and wedge sandals? Or heaps of gypsy-queen printed dresses complete with socks, wooden bangles and cross pendants? While Burani has built her business on such flashy fare, one wishes she’d explore new territory.Looking for new talent in Milan? You might want to check out Coccapani, where 28-year-old Riccardo Tisci envisioned dreamy, sumptuous girls in delicate chiffon dresses and proper lace petticoats. There was lots of white, and the collection was as pure as Mary’s Little Lamb. Too bad the lightness didn’t last through the entire collection. No matter how delicate a chiffon ruffle may be, sometimes 10 of them layered upon each other is 10 too many.

While Tisci stuck to a palette of pure white, Maurizio Pecoraro’s spring collection was about color and plenty of it, though the results were not always cheerful. Bold florals on skinny pants and wraparound dresses were as intoxicating as a summer fling. Other numbers, especially those trimmed with pieces of sparkly fruit, could leave a girl feeling like a plate of marzipan.

No fruit at Ermanno Scervino, just subtle details. For spring, the company’s signature embroidery was lavished on featherweight chiffon peasant tops and jersey tanks paired with cropped suede pants or full skirts. These girls were like wandering gypsies with serious romantic tendencies. Romance quickly evaporated for evening, however, with corseted silk dresses that were too derivative of other brands.

load comments
blog comments powered by Disqus