PARIS -- Showing early will be au courant at the Paris ready-to-wear shows here next month -- and Vogue editor in chief Anna Wintour is partly responsible.
Christian Dior, John Galliano, Jean Paul Gaultier, Givenchy and Yves Saint Laurent are among houses that have moved their shows up to the earlier part of Paris Fashion Week, March 7-15, to catch foreign journalists who might cut short their trips.
"Our agreement with everyone was that we must have a minimum of four major shows a day," said Didier Grumbach, president of the Chambre Syndicale de la Haute Couture, which organizes Paris Fashion Week.
Wintour has been among the more vocal proponents of an abbreviated international calendar and is said to have telephoned designers personally, beginning with Galliano, to ask them to schedule their shows earlier in the week. Grumbach would only say: "She wanted some important shows every day and that's what we have."
A Vogue spokesman confirmed her campaign, however. "Anna Wintour, along with many of her colleagues within the fashion press, contacted the Chambre Syndicate for two reasons. The first was to condense a long and unwieldy week of shows. The second was to move Paris Fashion Week closer to the end of the Milan shows. We are thrilled that they are responding by showing earlier and condensing the schedule," he said in a telephone interview.
The final calendar won't be released until later this week, but the provisional one sets Tuesday, March 12 as the last major day for American journalists, with Chloe, Valentino, Chanel, Celine, Martin Margiela and Veronique Branquinho on the schedule. The final three days features a mix of European and Japanese designers, including Vivienne Westwood, Clements Ribeiro, Guy Laroche, Junko Shimada and Atsuro Tayama. "Yes, some American press leave, but the Japanese press stays up until the end," Grumbach said.
Meanwhile, one designer conspicuously absent from next month's Paris schedule is Belgian designer Olivier Theyskens, famous for staging late, out-of-the-way spectacles. A spokesman confirmed Wednesday that Theyskens will not present a runway show this season nor show his collection in a Paris showroom. He declined to elaborate and Theyskens could not be reached for comment.Efforts to shorten fashion weeks in Europe go back to March 2000, when Amy Spindler, style editor of the New York Times Magazine, drafted a letter to designers on behalf of fashion's leading newspaper and magazine editors requesting that Milan and Paris concentrate their shows over an 11-day period. It was designed to end the practice of scheduling major designers' shows at the beginning and end of each fashion week to make sure everyone stayed for the duration. Dubbed "Spindler's List," the names of the 35 to 40 European houses considered the most important were never disclosed.
Grumbach acknowledged such pronouncements are subjective. "Someone might consider that Marc Le Bihan is a major show," he said. "But most would agree that Dior is more major than Richard Edwards."
As reported in WWD on Wednesday, Italian designers have been jockeying for strategic time slots on the Milan calendar, Feb. 24 to March 5, knowing editors and buyers will be arriving later in the week.
Grumbach said he has been urging Milan to shorten its calendar, but he said he couldn't promise the same for Paris, which is enjoying a major renaissance as the key fashion capital. "We have 11 shows a day, one per hour and everything is major," he said. "And we have no secondary lines at all. There are more and more designers who want to show here. Next season, there will be Chinese designers coming and we will have to accommodate them, too."
“These collections continue to build on that vision, empowering differently abled adults to express themselves through fashion,” said @tommyhilfiger of his line of adaptive apparel, which launches today. The line consists of 37 men’s and 34 women’s styles based upon the pieces from the spring Tommy Hilfiger sportswear collection. #wwdnews
“Stranger Things” is getting a new cast member for season 2. Meet @sadiesink_, the 15-year-old who will be joining the Netflix series for its new season. You may recognize her from “The Glass Castle” with Brie Larson and Woody Harrelson, but the Texas native’s next role goes in an entirely different direction. She describes her character, Max, as “a rough and tumble skater girl [who] becomes friends with the boys at school.” The second season debuts on October 27. (📷: @jgreenery) #wwdeye
Amid the Harvey Weinstein controversy, there’s another sector that’s being put under the spotlight for sexual abuse: the modeling industry. While rumors about abuse and sexual harassment of female and male models — and the photographers, agents and others who perpetrated it — have circulated within the fashion world for years, model @cameronrussell started posting stories from models on Instagram last week about abusive situations they’ve encountered — from sexual harassment and molestation to attempted rape. Over 75 have weighed in so far. Read more on WWD.com. Link in bio. #wwdnews
To celebrate its 16th anniversary, @dylanscandybar tapped designers and celebrities to create mosaics out of candy. The mosaics will be auctioned off to support the philanthropic cause of each participant’s choice. Pictured here is the mural created by @aliceandolivia's Stacey Bendet. For a first look at some of the other artwork being unveiled tonight, go to WWD.com. #wwdeye
The annual Veuve Clicquot Polo Classic in Pacific Palisades this weekend drew Kate Hudson, Tracee Ellis Ross, Laura Dern and more. See pictures of the star-studded event on WWD.com. (📷: @chelsealaurenla) #wwdeye
In his new book “Hollywood Royale,” Andy Warhol’s Protégé Matthew Rolston celebrates the Eighties revival of Hollywood glamour. Featuring more than 100 portraits taken by Rolston from 1977 to 1993, the book contains photos of icons like Michael Jackson, Cyndi Lauper, and @drewbarrymore, pictured here in 1991. “Hollywood Royale,” out today, will be accompanied by an exhibition opening at Los Angeles’ Fahey/Klein Gallery on March 1. #wwdeye
"Nowadays when life is not so happy with everything going on in the world, I think people come to me for a little bit of whimsy and color and fun." - Designer Rebecca De Ravenel on her cult-favorite jewelry line. (📸 : @vsteves) #wwd40
“Everyone is talking about how the retail industry is struggling, but I think it’s an incredible time because brands who are doing something different and innovative are setting themselves up for the future,” said @adamgoldston, who founded the luxury athletic brand @apl with his brother @ryangoldsten. The Goldston’s are part of WWD’s 40 under 40: a group of industry notables. See the rest of the list on WWD.com. (📷: @vsteves) #wwd40
@eyeswoon blogger Athena Calderone debuted her first-ever cookbook, “Cook Beautiful,” which is heavily centered on the presentation and visual expression of food. Pictured here are her miso glazed carrots from the book. Get the recipe on WWD.com. (📷: @johnny_miller_) #wwdeye