PARIS — Romantic and ethnic looks were recurring themes at the Eclat de Mode/Bijorhca and Premiere Classe accessories shows that wound up Sept. 2 at the Porte de Versailles exhibition center here. But the mix of fall 2002 and spring 2003...
PARIS — Romantic and ethnic looks were recurring themes at the Eclat de Mode/Bijorhca and Premiere Classe accessories shows that wound up Sept. 2 at the Porte de Versailles exhibition center here. But the mix of fall 2002 and spring 2003 collections confounded some retailers.
"Things are too diversified here," said Gisela Eichler, an accessories buyer for Lolita Lempicka and LM Lulu in Saint-Tropez. "We are finding it really hard to get a feel for what we want and what we should expect from next season," added her colleague Christine Chapas.
Josephine Bui, export manager for French exhibitor Ventilo at Premiere Classe, also found that the mix of seasons affected business. "I’m afraid it is a bit confusing for the buyers," she said. "We’re seeing many clients who are looking for [immediates]." Ventilo showcased spring collections for yearend delivery.
At Eclat de Mode, most buyers were also seeking immediates. The show’s organizers said 7,811 professional buyers visited the four-day salon, an increase of 15.3 percent, compared with September 2001. A breakdown of attendee numbers showed that 65 percent of visitors were French, with the remaining 35 percent coming from 95 different countries. The salon hosted stands for 370 companies.
Buyers at Premiere Classe held back on orders, opting to peruse this session’s offerings and make decisions at a larger session to be held at the end of the ready-to-wear collections, Oct. 10-13, following the Paris runway collections, Oct. 3-11.
Still, vendors expressed positive outlooks for the coming season and retailers cited healthy budgets in comparison to the past few seasons.
Bergona Relats, owner of Aita, a boutique in Barcelona, came to Eclat de Mode to scope out trends and make solid purchases on the spot from several vendors. "I’m optimistic about this year," she said, browsing through racks of textured scarves and patchwork bags. "I came all this way — I’m buying here."
Parisian jewelry designer Gavilane, who goes by only one name, agreed.
"It’s now or never," she said. "Clients are here and they are buying."Gavilane cited strong sales, led by such jewelry items as elaborate gothic necklaces and glass beaded chokers accented with feathers from the high-end of the collection, with wholesale prices in the $200 to $500 range.
Indeed, money did not appear to be a big concern. Many retailers said they were willing to pay more to get what they wanted: original designs.
"I am looking for special pieces with a pointed difference —no basics," said Lucy Benzecny, owner of British boutiques The West Village.
"We’re looking for things that no one else has, outrageous stuff," said Mary Sue Morris, who owns boutiques in Guatemala and Mexico, placing orders for bags and jewelry with wooden and coconut husk beads, feathers and shells. "Our budget is significantly up over the past few years and we feel confident."
The annual Veuve Clicquot Polo Classic in Pacific Palisades this weekend drew Kate Hudson, Tracee Ellis Ross, Laura Dern and more. See pictures of the star-studded event on WWD.com. (📷: @chelsealaurenla) #wwdeye
In his new book “Hollywood Royale,” Andy Warhol’s Protégé Matthew Rolston celebrates the Eighties revival of Hollywood glamour. Featuring more than 100 portraits taken by Rolston from 1977 to 1993, the book contains photos of icons like Michael Jackson, Cyndi Lauper, and @drewbarrymore, pictured here in 1991. “Hollywood Royale,” out today, will be accompanied by an exhibition opening at Los Angeles’ Fahey/Klein Gallery on March 1. #wwdeye
"Nowadays when life is not so happy with everything going on in the world, I think people come to me for a little bit of whimsy and color and fun." - Designer Rebecca De Ravenel on her cult-favorite jewelry line. (📸 : @vsteves) #wwd40
“Everyone is talking about how the retail industry is struggling, but I think it’s an incredible time because brands who are doing something different and innovative are setting themselves up for the future,” said @adamgoldston, who founded the luxury athletic brand @apl with his brother @ryangoldsten. The Goldston’s are part of WWD’s 40 under 40: a group of industry notables. See the rest of the list on WWD.com. (📷: @vsteves) #wwd40
@eyeswoon blogger Athena Calderone debuted her first-ever cookbook, “Cook Beautiful,” which is heavily centered on the presentation and visual expression of food. Pictured here are her miso glazed carrots from the book. Get the recipe on WWD.com. (📷: @johnny_miller_) #wwdeye
“It’s passion that helps get anybody to a certain point and it’s what’s propelled me,” said Kith founder @ronniefieg, one of WWD’s 40 under 40: a group of industry notables who are changing the face of retail, fashion and beauty. Fieg, who opened a Manhattan flagship on October 7, began his career at age 13 as a stock boy and salesman for footwear chain David Z. “I think staying true to [my] beliefs, hard work and passion have gotten me to where [Kith] is today.” See the rest of the 40 at WWD.com. (📷: @vsteves) #wwd40
25-year-old @samweaving is about to break out this fall, starring in Netflix’s horror film “The Babysitter,” fittingly out today on Friday the 13th. That’s not the only place you’ll be seeing her, though — Weaving’s got a role Showtime’s “SMILF” and another alongside Frances McDormand and Woody Harrelson in “Three Billboards Outside Ebbing, Missouri.” Though she’s got a full plate at the moment, there’s one role she’s got her eye on: Marilyn Monroe. “I’m a little too young at the moment, but it’s on my bucket list,” the actress told WWD (📷: @dandoperalski) #wwdeye
BFF's Poppy Jamie and Suki Waterhouse celebrated the launch of their bag line Pop x Suki at Nordstrom last night. "The line is really about our friendship, and how we are so different but complement each other," said Waterhouse. 👯 (📷: Katie Jones) #wwdeye
After designing the new @louisvuitton and @bulgariofficial flagships and a @chanelofficial boutique opening in Japan, @petermarinoarchitect has another project on his plate: The Lobster Club. Located in the Seagram Building, it’s the famed architect’s first restaurant project in New York, serving up modern Japanese brasserie-style cuisine. Bronze hues, bespoke material detailing, blush and chartreuse tones and a heavy emphasis on Picasso can be seen throughout. Mark your calendars for Nov. 1 for the much-anticipated opening. (📷: @clint_spaulding) #wwdeye