Cerruti: In his debut collection for Cerruti, Serbian designer Istvan Francer took a solid step toward establishing a modern aesthetic at the house, which is owned by Italy’s Fin.part. Sharply tailored smoking jackets came paired with miniskirts or shorts pleated at the side, while tuxedo vests sported ultrasharp collars. Francer worked an angular theme in much of the collection, but he softened it with such details as bows, along with chiffon tops and sexy georgette minidresses. Sticking largely to a palette of black and ivory, he added variety with khaki safari jackets and sparkling sequined pieces for evening, including a fetching military trenchcoat.

Nina Ricci: James Aguiar, in his debut as creative director at Nina Ricci, hit all the right notes with a well-executed, feminine collection. Aguiar, formerly fashion director for ready-to-wear at Bergdorf Goodman, stuck largely to delicate chiffon, cutting it into sports shorts, minidresses and a jumpsuit. Colors ran the gamut from dusty blue and brown to more vibrant orange and pink, and he added more romance with fairy-tale prints of strawberries, flowers and pumpkins.

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