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Cerruti: In his debut collection for Cerruti, Serbian designer Istvan Francer took a solid step toward establishing a modern aesthetic at the house, which is owned by Italy’s Fin.part. Sharply tailored smoking jackets came paired with miniskirts or shorts pleated at the side, while tuxedo vests sported ultrasharp collars. Francer worked an angular theme in much of the collection, but he softened it with such details as bows, along with chiffon tops and sexy georgette minidresses. Sticking largely to a palette of black and ivory, he added variety with khaki safari jackets and sparkling sequined pieces for evening, including a fetching military trenchcoat.
Nina Ricci: James Aguiar, in his debut as creative director at Nina Ricci, hit all the right notes with a well-executed, feminine collection. Aguiar, formerly fashion director for ready-to-wear at Bergdorf Goodman, stuck largely to delicate chiffon, cutting it into sports shorts, minidresses and a jumpsuit. Colors ran the gamut from dusty blue and brown to more vibrant orange and pink, and he added more romance with fairy-tale prints of strawberries, flowers and pumpkins.
Clements Ribeiro: Design duo Suzanne Clements and Inacio Ribeiro served up a cute and colorful collection for spring inspired by Sixties swinging London. They mixed striped skirts with vibrant cashmere knits and satin minidresses that featured naïve, Pop Art prints and appliqués. Tops and dresses embroidered with a satin star, lips or clouds harkened to The Beatles’ “Yellow Submarine” period — with a luxurious twist.
Louis Féraud: In his debut collection at Féraud, Belgian Jean-Paul Knott aimed to give this aging house a burst of youthful verve. The program notes, for example, explained that he was shooting for an “Ibiza Chic” vibe. The result was slouchy drawstring trousers, roomy knits, kimono jackets and Grecian-style dresses. Although there were wearable clothes, however, the collection didn’t synthesize into an energetic whole.
Adam Jones: British designer Adam Jones presented a strong, focused collection for spring. But there’s nothing basic about his sexy point of view. Instead, he favors handmade items, such as crocheted body-hugging dresses with handpainted butterflies, tops in ribbons interwoven with lace and a bevy of beautiful kimono-sleeved pieces. Although inspired by the Twenties, Jones’ fringed skirts and tops were hardly anachronistic, and his bright yellow dress fringed with goose feathers hit the right upbeat mood.
Jacques Fath: Designer Lizzy Disney, who is in her second season at Fath, is steering the house in a younger direction. Her camisole tops, short dresses and low-slung pants blended modern hip with Art Deco touches. She featured many of the season’s key pieces, including draped jersey dresses, satin blousons and trenchcoats. But Disney’s details were sometimes too restrained. She could afford to turn up the fashion volume a few notches.
Scherrer: Indian designer Ritu Beri, in her sophomore effort at Scherrer, mixed the sportif with feminine romance. Flower appliqués decorated chiffon dresses, while a sports girdle was integrated into pants, dresses and a bustier. Beri likes her girls racy, and puts them in microminis or skin-hugging jeans embroidered with birds. The designer obviously wants to bring energy and sex appeal to Scherrer, but many of the clothes were overdesigned or just plain vulgar.