Paris: C’est Fini: the Great Seducer, Forever Yves
The Great Seducer: If seduction's your game, then Valentino is your couturier. He presented the most feminine, sexy collection Paris has seen all week. He sent it out to a soundtrack with a lot of music by k.d. lang; if ever there was...
The Great Seducer: If seduction's your game, then Valentino is your couturier. He presented the most feminine, sexy collection Paris has seen all week. He sent it out to a soundtrack with a lot of music by k.d. lang; if ever there was an ironic choice of tunes, this was it. Val's women are sensuous pussycats, and have no time - or taste - for drab, androgynous drag. Delicate is another word that comes to mind when describing Valentino's collection. His colors are soft and muted; his fabrics smooth and flowing; his prints and appliques tasteful in the extreme.
"I'm a little worried because it's so simple," Valentino said before the show. And, indeed, there were hardly any accessories, except for big Phillip Treacy garden hats and dainty earrings. Val's suits - with short bouncy skirts - were topped with jackets so soft they looked like tunics, flaring easily from high Empire waists. They were often cut from double layers of chiffon and worn with matching, strategically slit skirts. There were virtually no pants, only loads and loads of fluid printed dresses - maybe a few too many.
But it was at night that Val really took off. He loves lace and lingerie looks, which he's done before, but never with such restraint. Sure, there was a bosom visible here, a bosom visible there, but by and large the dresses were perfectly street legal. The best evening segment was a group of long, simple columns in shades of champagne, tan and beige. Some were topped by sheer embroidered tulle jackets, a few of which were covered in birds and bees. How apt.
Forever Yves: Roots. That's what Yves Saint Laurent said his collection was all about. And that's exactly what it was. His presentation Wednesday morning was vintage Saint Laurent: impeccable pantsuits, luscious blouses, beautiful crepe dresses, superb mixes of colors and the kind of evening dresses that make people ooh and ah. There wasn't a lot for the copiers this season, but there was plenty for the customers. This was one of the shortest Saint Laurent collections on record, only 61 numbers. But despite his recent bout with double pneumonia, which landed him in the American Hospital for a week, Yves made his customary walk down the runway with Lucie de la Falaise, and was mobbed as usual backstage.This season, Yves likes his skirts short, but not too short: just an inch above the knee, or "normal," as Loulou Klossowski calls it. But the strongest statement of all was for pants, which has been couture's loudest cry this season. Saint Laurent's most spectacular came in gray Donegal tweed with a black bow tie and fabulous printed crepe blouse - the only way a chic woman should wear a man's suit. Though white was his favorite theme, Saint Laurent's color genius showed up in a group of crepe dresses, exquisitely wrapped around the body in fuchsia and a blue shade he calls myosotis (Greek for forget-me-nots). Loulou's accessories were pure Saint Laurent: lots of gold, touches of silver and sometimes a mixture of both, flashing from big bracelets, earrings and brooches, often with opulent colored stones.
The evening segment was the least inspired part of the collection. There were three or four beautiful long white columns in raw silk, a black satin wrap dress and a transparent leopard print number that would make any man growl. But they were overshadowed by a finale of Marie-Antoinette damask corset gowns that were strictly over the top.
Yves had the customary heavy-hitting front row, including Catherine Deneuve, who was mobbed as usual by dozens of hungry paparazzi, while the other ladies looked on in icy dismay. "What do you think they do with all those pictures of her?" wondered Princess Firyal of Jordan.
@kith is moving into children’s. The men’s and women’s streetwear brand has launched Kidset, a Kith kids line located in New York at 64 Bleecker Street. The line includes mini versions of staple Kith pieces like the Astor bomber jacket and the Kith box logo sweatshirts, along with a wall that can display up to 120 pairs of shoes from @adidas, @newbalance, @timberland and more. #wwdfashion
“I just wanted to create this fully rounded character, but I do think what excited me most was just the opportunity to give a group of people representation that I feel needs it. I like to do characters in projects that stand for something and Karolina definitely does, so that was really exciting to me,” @ginnygardner says of her new role in @hulu’s “The Runaways.” Gardner plays Karolina Dean, a queer superhero, which is a rarity for @marvel. Read more about Gardner’s character on WWD.com #wwdeye (📷: @dandoperalski)
@heriethpaul and @gracebol have a moment on the @victoriassecret fashion show 2017. See every look from the runway on WWD.com. Link in bio. (📷: @giovanni_giannoni_photo) #wwdfashion #victoriassecret #VSFashionShow
“Azzedine has been one of the biggest influences in my life. He has always been such a strong, loving, fatherly figure to me. I call him Papa. His designs are indescribably unique, they are pieces of art. He knew how to make the female form look its loveliest. I have so many memories of him; my favorite might be during my first show with him in Paris. He liked me and he wanted to help me get more work. He called all his friends at Kenzo and Comme des Garcons, and asked them to book me. They said, ‘But she can’t walk!’ And he said, ‘but she has such a great ass!' His friendship and support has been the great privilege of my career. I can't imagine life without him. Repose en paix mon Papa.” - @stephanieseymour tells @wwd. #wwdfashion (📷: @steveeichner) #alaia #azzedinealaia
Azzedine Alaïa, flanked by two of his closest friends, models Stephanie Seymour and Naomi Campbell.
He designed Seymour’s dress for her 1995 wedding to Peter Brant, and treated Campbell (who famously called him Papa), like a daughter. For more on the legendary designer, tap the link in bio. #wwdfashion #alaia #azzedinealaia