The Great Seducer: If seduction's your game, then Valentino is your couturier. He presented the most feminine, sexy collection Paris has seen all week. He sent it out to a soundtrack with a lot of music by k.d. lang; if ever there was an ironic choice of tunes, this was it. Val's women are sensuous pussycats, and have no time - or taste - for drab, androgynous drag. Delicate is another word that comes to mind when describing Valentino's collection. His colors are soft and muted; his fabrics smooth and flowing; his prints and appliques tasteful in the extreme.

"I'm a little worried because it's so simple," Valentino said before the show. And, indeed, there were hardly any accessories, except for big Phillip Treacy garden hats and dainty earrings. Val's suits - with short bouncy skirts - were topped with jackets so soft they looked like tunics, flaring easily from high Empire waists. They were often cut from double layers of chiffon and worn with matching, strategically slit skirts. There were virtually no pants, only loads and loads of fluid printed dresses - maybe a few too many.

But it was at night that Val really took off. He loves lace and lingerie looks, which he's done before, but never with such restraint. Sure, there was a bosom visible here, a bosom visible there, but by and large the dresses were perfectly street legal. The best evening segment was a group of long, simple columns in shades of champagne, tan and beige. Some were topped by sheer embroidered tulle jackets, a few of which were covered in birds and bees. How apt.

Forever Yves: Roots. That's what Yves Saint Laurent said his collection was all about. And that's exactly what it was. His presentation Wednesday morning was vintage Saint Laurent: impeccable pantsuits, luscious blouses, beautiful crepe dresses, superb mixes of colors and the kind of evening dresses that make people ooh and ah. There wasn't a lot for the copiers this season, but there was plenty for the customers. This was one of the shortest Saint Laurent collections on record, only 61 numbers. But despite his recent bout with double pneumonia, which landed him in the American Hospital for a week, Yves made his customary walk down the runway with Lucie de la Falaise, and was mobbed as usual backstage.

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