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Paris Couture Preview: Ones to Watch

Emerging talents on the couture scene, from eveningwear to jewelry.

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A Delphine Manivet dress from her first Couture show.

Courtesy Photo

A Fred Sathal Fall Winter 2014 couture dress.

A Fred Sathal Fall Winter 2014 couture dress.

Courtesy Photo

Emerging talents on the couture scene, from eveningwear to jewelry.

COUTURE DEBUT

Delphine Manivet, a newcomer to the couture calendar this season, has been creating couture wedding dresses for an international clientele for about 10 years.

Prompted by increasing demand for evening dresses from her young clients, Manivet started creating long dresses and ballgowns about four years ago, initially selling the line as high-end ready-to-wear in a few  department stores.

Her first couture collection, developed with such suppliers as Lesage, Goosens and Maison Michel, will be the next step in the development of her quiet but thriving fashion house.

The collection of about 13 looks, presented in the intimacy of her 18th-century salon, will be devoted to grand eveningwear with a fresh approach.

For instance, an ultratranslucent ballgown is made of black cotton tulle using an antique couture technique to structure the volume, or long evening dresses with a Japanese kimono-inspired crane motif that’s entirely hand-painted and embroidered on red silk satin. Finished with felt helmets and head-piece jewelry that frame the models’ faces, some looks bear Twenties influences — particularly Poiret, one of the designer’s main inspirations — as in long cocoon coats made of hand-woven tweed with fox trim at the collar and cuffs.

 

NEXT: STÉPHANIE COUDERT AND FRED SATHAL >>


RETURN ENGAGEMENTS

This couture week will see the return to the runway of two designers after a decade’s hiatus, Stéphanie Coudert and Fred Sathal.

After her first show 10 years ago, Coudert has been creating for private clients in her small atelier in Belleville. With the support of a high-end atelier in Paris, she will return to the couture runway with a collection of daywear with a slightly medieval flavor. Citing Eleanor of Aquitaine as her inspiration, her double-faced wool and cashmere coats are cut generously with ladder embroidery at the seams, and graphic tops and long skirts are appliquéd with a lattice of ribbon embroidery.

Marseilles-based Sathal’s signature embroideries made of hand-stitched multicolored lustrous cotton thread and sequins were acclaimed in the mid-Nineties, when her fairy-tale looks were shown in collaboration with French makeup artist Topolino.

In addition to taking orders for this collection of about 25 mostly one-of-a-kind looks, she will offer it in limited quantities at wholesale. This will also serve as the platform for the launch of her ready-to-wear line in 2015.

 

NEXT: EMMANUEL AUBRY’S A FINE JEWEL >>


COUTURE JEWELRY

Emmanuel Aubry worked for many years in the studios of Thierry Mugler and Christian Lacroix, creating elaborate runway pieces or refined semiprecious jewelry as he built his expertise in various techniques and styles.

Aubry created his own brand, A Fine Jewel, a few years ago, offering one-on-one appointments to private clients, as well as limited-edition collections and one-of-a-kind creations.

He uses inventive techniques to craft his pieces. For instance, in an aquamarine ring, the cage structure and setting is shaped from a gray-gold thread welded with the 41-carat gem layered on a mirror surface to bring greater depth to its color.

Aubry’s work is rooted in historical and ethnic styles as well as the sensual quality of the work of Swedish silversmith Vivianna Torun. His designs are made with particular attention to the comfort of the wearer.

 

This season, A Fine Jewel will expand with a line of precious objects made by renowned atelier Goosens. They include a carved jadeite bowl with bronze chain and black onyx feet, and bespoke scented candles cap-crowned with a crystal cube of pyrite.

The collection will be on display in a private apartment of the 8th arrondissement by appointment only at emmanuelaubry@afinejewel.com.

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