Paris Couture: Slavic Style and a Victorian Vision
Jean Paul Gaultier: Jean Paul Gaultier has rejoined the lofty ranks of couture splendor. The collection he showed on Friday positively dazzled, a Parisienne-cum-Ukranian jewel in which he struck an impossibly deft balance between...
Jean Paul Gaultier: Jean Paul Gaultier has rejoined the lofty ranks of couture splendor. The collection he showed on Friday positively dazzled, a Parisienne-cum-Ukranian jewel in which he struck an impossibly deft balance between storybook romance and high chic.
It's no secret that, recently, life has been somewhat tumultuous chez Gaultier. But after a strong spring ready-to-wear at retail and this spectacular couture showing, things are only looking up. Unlike last season, when his wanderlust turned flat, here Gaultier spun a trip to the Ukraine into a glorious visual feast. And for all its lavish decoration, he kept it on the right side of costumery, unless you count Miss Cosmopolitan Ukraine, the flower-bonneted beauty queen who trolled the audience flashing the Nemiroff vodka label from her streamers. (At least she brought along sidekicks who served vodka and caviar.) Save for her amusing but tacky presence, Gaultier's judgment proved flawless.
With variations on Slavic style all over fashion, Gaultier turned the ordinary — fur-trimmed romanticism — extraordinary. And though it all oozed opulence, since he often made his case with the extras — fringes, fur trimmings, the models' hair worked into miles of intricately sculpted braids — he skirted both cliché and excess.
In a big coat season, his are stunning — dark beauties sure to take the bleakness out of the harshest winter. First out: a black cashmere redingote with ample mink collar and trim. Then came full fur skirts cut to the knee and bodices kept small for real wearability. Gaultier went on to nod toward the Cossack set, exploring lavish color and decoration, and worked in his beloved standards — the perfect trench, the nonchalant shirt.
Evening went folkloric, the decoration literally reaching full flower in a tapestry-appliquéd tulle skirt with a blouse of tiny multicolored ruffles, or noble-worthy, with rich spills of velvet in Lady Guinevere mode. And for the ultimate event dress, tiers of mixed fabrics made for a ruched, ruffled masterpiece.
Givenchy: You might not have realized it was a couture event, considering the hordes crushing through Givenchy's Avenue George V atelier, and the rough and rude security detail that kept everyone stumbling right along. Nevertheless, Riccardo Tisci's debut collection, shown in a series of tableaux vivants, was full of dark promise. The 30-year-old gave a nod to tradition but demonstrated a Gothic edge all his own. Snug jackets, one with its lapels cut in sharp fan pleats, and long, tailored skirts were Victorian-inspired. A woolly gown in black looked like it had been spun from luxe spiderweb, while a black trenchcoat was finished off with a flurry of ostrich plumes.Whether Tisci's clothes meet the haute standards of true couture, and whether he'll prove able to shoulder those demands, remains to be seen. But while he initially seemed like a wild card choice, his apparent skills as a ready-to-wear designer — though not as an event planner — put a hopeful spin on the future for Givenchy.
@tradesy is turning the concept of a showroom upside down with its new space in Santa Monica. Here, the company plans to hold events, art exhibits and a showcase rare fashion pieces like this Louis Vuitton boxing set. Get all the details on Tradesy’s first showroom on WWD.com. #wwdnews
Spotted last night at the @erdem x @hm launch event: Kate Bosworth, Rashida Jones, Kirsten Dunst and Selma Blair. The party, which took place in LA, also marked the opening of their pop-up shop. “I was interested in creating a collection that wasn’t in any way disposable. It was about pieces you’d create and keep forever, things that have a permanence to it,” designer Erdem Moralioglu said. #wwdeye (📷: Katie Jones)
Renee Zellweger in yellow in 2001 and again in 2017. Chosen as one of the 12 @pantone Leading Spring Colors (and dubbed “Meadowlark”), it only makes sense that the bright hue stands the test of time and is making a resurgence this season, seen already on stars like @blakelively and @gigihadid. (📷: Donato Sardello & @rexfeatures) #wwdfashion #tbt
Dior’s 70th anniversary celebration continues with a new exhibition at the Royal Ontario Museum in Toronto. “Christian Dior,” which is scheduled to run through March 18, takes a look at the founders tenure from 1947 to 1057 and feature 40 designs. Pictured here is an evening gown from the Ailée, fall 1948-49 haute couture collection. #wwdfashion (📷: Brian Boyle)
As one of the most recognizable models in the world, Christy Turlington Burns has an insider’s view of the fashion industry and the allegations of sexual harassment swirling around it. “I can say that harassment and mistreatment have always been widely known and tolerated in the industry. The industry is surrounded by predators who thrive on the constant rejection and loneliness so many of us have experiences at some point in our careers,” Turlington told WWD, along with her suggestions for how the modeling world should protect younger women and men. Read more on WWD.com. Link in bio. (📷: Tony Palmieri) #wwdnews
@asics America has tapped a new brand ambassador: famed DJ/record producer @steveaoki. This initiative is intended to set the tone for the new brand identity and philosophy and will include partnerships with influencers and in-store and off-line activations that will continue into next year. This is Asics’ most significant marketing effort in two decades, and is expected to attract younger consumers to the brand. #wwdfashion
24-year-old Jean Prounis is redefining the rules of jewelry. Formerly a studio assistant to Jemima Kirke and a design apprentice at Ghuran, she focuses on handcrafted subtleties and ancient goldsmithing techniques. “There was a really sterile feel in the environment and I wanted to have jewelry with character that shapes how you wear it everyday,” Prounis said. Each piece is hand made in New York, either by Prounis or three other jewelers in the district. #wwdfashion
“These collections continue to build on that vision, empowering differently abled adults to express themselves through fashion,” said @tommyhilfiger of his line of adaptive apparel, which launches today. The line consists of 37 men’s and 34 women’s styles based upon the pieces from the spring Tommy Hilfiger sportswear collection. #wwdnews