Paris Couture: Slavic Style and a Victorian Vision
Jean Paul Gaultier: Jean Paul Gaultier has rejoined the lofty ranks of couture splendor. The collection he showed on Friday positively dazzled, a Parisienne-cum-Ukranian jewel in which he struck an impossibly deft balance between...
Jean Paul Gaultier: Jean Paul Gaultier has rejoined the lofty ranks of couture splendor. The collection he showed on Friday positively dazzled, a Parisienne-cum-Ukranian jewel in which he struck an impossibly deft balance between storybook romance and high chic.It's no secret that, recently, life has been somewhat tumultuous chez Gaultier. But after a strong spring ready-to-wear at retail and this spectacular couture showing, things are only looking up. Unlike last season, when his wanderlust turned flat, here Gaultier spun a trip to the Ukraine into a glorious visual feast. And for all its lavish decoration, he kept it on the right side of costumery, unless you count Miss Cosmopolitan Ukraine, the flower-bonneted beauty queen who trolled the audience flashing the Nemiroff vodka label from her streamers. (At least she brought along sidekicks who served vodka and caviar.) Save for her amusing but tacky presence, Gaultier's judgment proved flawless. With variations on Slavic style all over fashion, Gaultier turned the ordinary — fur-trimmed romanticism — extraordinary. And though it all oozed opulence, since he often made his case with the extras — fringes, fur trimmings, the models' hair worked into miles of intricately sculpted braids — he skirted both cliché and excess. In a big coat season, his are stunning — dark beauties sure to take the bleakness out of the harshest winter. First out: a black cashmere redingote with ample mink collar and trim. Then came full fur skirts cut to the knee and bodices kept small for real wearability. Gaultier went on to nod toward the Cossack set, exploring lavish color and decoration, and worked in his beloved standards — the perfect trench, the nonchalant shirt. Evening went folkloric, the decoration literally reaching full flower in a tapestry-appliquéd tulle skirt with a blouse of tiny multicolored ruffles, or noble-worthy, with rich spills of velvet in Lady Guinevere mode. And for the ultimate event dress, tiers of mixed fabrics made for a ruched, ruffled masterpiece. Givenchy: You might not have realized it was a couture event, considering the hordes crushing through Givenchy's Avenue George V atelier, and the rough and rude security detail that kept everyone stumbling right along. Nevertheless, Riccardo Tisci's debut collection, shown in a series of tableaux vivants, was full of dark promise. The 30-year-old gave a nod to tradition but demonstrated a Gothic edge all his own. Snug jackets, one with its lapels cut in sharp fan pleats, and long, tailored skirts were Victorian-inspired. A woolly gown in black looked like it had been spun from luxe spiderweb, while a black trenchcoat was finished off with a flurry of ostrich plumes.Whether Tisci's clothes meet the haute standards of true couture, and whether he'll prove able to shoulder those demands, remains to be seen. But while he initially seemed like a wild card choice, his apparent skills as a ready-to-wear designer — though not as an event planner — put a hopeful spin on the future for Givenchy.
“I design by visualization. I see things, and most of the time they’re not practical to actually make, and what I’ve found here, it’s like anything’s possible. This is the first time that I’ve made a sole unit in two months. That process usually would take six, so here’s a difference,” said @virgilabloh of the first sneaker sample he created for @louisvuitton, pictured here. Abloh spoke to WWD about his debut collection for Louis Vuitton, creating @kendalljenner’s #metgala outfit and redefining the heritage brand. Read the full story on WWD.com. #wwdfashion (📷: @alfredo_piola)
The world’s largest producer of denim @iskodenim is sharing the strategy behind its product development process. Read our full interview with ISKO’s product development manager Baris Ozden on the company’s extensive research practices, upcoming denim trends and the latest material innovations on WWD.com. #iskodenim
“I genuinely fell in love with water, I fell in love with Fiji, I fell in love with the whole life that we lived for those few months,” says @mrsamclaflin of filming for his new movie “Adrift” with @shailenewoodley. The 31-year-old actor spoke with WWD about his upcoming projects, meeting Jamie Dornan and working with co-star Woodley. #wwdeye (📷: @jamstoker)
3 years ago, fans of the late singer Aaliyah started calling for a collaboration with @maccosmetics. With the strength of social media — including mock ups of products — 25,000 people signed a Change.org petition for a limited-edition collection, and MAC couldn’t ignore the buzz. Tomorrow, MAC will unveil MAC x Aaliyah, a tribute to the singer who passed away nearly 17 years ago. Head to our stories to preview the new collection, which was worked on by Aaliyah’s family and inspired directly by her makeup bag. #wwdbeauty
Artistic director @clarewaightkeller will be dedicating @givenchyofficial’s fall 2018 couture show in Paris on July 1 to house founder Hubert de Givenchy, who passed away in March at age 91. Givenchy said the collection would be “an homage to his iconic creations, technique, and personal lexicon” and a “celebration of his timeless elegance and grace.” Head to WWD.com to read more. #wwdfashion (📷: Delphine Achard)
La Double J made a name for itself with its vintage-inspired prints, but for resort, designer JJ Martin has ventured into new territory: enter rich jewel toned solids and decadent embellishment, in the form of appliqués, crystals and sequins. #wwdfashion #resort19 #ladoublej
This Just In: J. Crew Group has named Johanna Uurasjarvi as its chief design officer.
Uurasjarvi succeeds Somsack Sikhounmuong, who left the company last September. Tap the link in bio for the full report. #wwdnews
“She came into my hotel room and she was like, ‘I have Chanel and Christian Dior.’ She was like, ‘Chanel likes you.’ And I was like, ‘I’m going to start crying,’” breakout star Maddie Hasson tells WWD of her styling sessions Molly Dickson. “I really like classic, elegant things. I love the way Anna Wintour dresses.” Read more about Hasson’s role in @impulseseries on wwd.com. (📸: @jgreenery ) #wwdeye
@virgilabloh revealed he's working with Australian stylist and
Vogue Australia fashion director @christinecentenera for his debut @louisvuitton men's collection, which will be presented in Paris on June 21. Centenera met Abloh while both working with Kanye West, where she consulted on his all his runway collections since his debut spring 2012 women's wear show. Read the full story on WWD.com. #wwdfashion #wwdnews (📷: @asussmanphoto)