Paris Couture: Slavic Style and a Victorian Vision
Jean Paul Gaultier: Jean Paul Gaultier has rejoined the lofty ranks of couture splendor. The collection he showed on Friday positively dazzled, a Parisienne-cum-Ukranian jewel in which he struck an impossibly deft balance between...
Jean Paul Gaultier: Jean Paul Gaultier has rejoined the lofty ranks of couture splendor. The collection he showed on Friday positively dazzled, a Parisienne-cum-Ukranian jewel in which he struck an impossibly deft balance between storybook romance and high chic.
It's no secret that, recently, life has been somewhat tumultuous chez Gaultier. But after a strong spring ready-to-wear at retail and this spectacular couture showing, things are only looking up. Unlike last season, when his wanderlust turned flat, here Gaultier spun a trip to the Ukraine into a glorious visual feast. And for all its lavish decoration, he kept it on the right side of costumery, unless you count Miss Cosmopolitan Ukraine, the flower-bonneted beauty queen who trolled the audience flashing the Nemiroff vodka label from her streamers. (At least she brought along sidekicks who served vodka and caviar.) Save for her amusing but tacky presence, Gaultier's judgment proved flawless.
With variations on Slavic style all over fashion, Gaultier turned the ordinary — fur-trimmed romanticism — extraordinary. And though it all oozed opulence, since he often made his case with the extras — fringes, fur trimmings, the models' hair worked into miles of intricately sculpted braids — he skirted both cliché and excess.
In a big coat season, his are stunning — dark beauties sure to take the bleakness out of the harshest winter. First out: a black cashmere redingote with ample mink collar and trim. Then came full fur skirts cut to the knee and bodices kept small for real wearability. Gaultier went on to nod toward the Cossack set, exploring lavish color and decoration, and worked in his beloved standards — the perfect trench, the nonchalant shirt.
Evening went folkloric, the decoration literally reaching full flower in a tapestry-appliquéd tulle skirt with a blouse of tiny multicolored ruffles, or noble-worthy, with rich spills of velvet in Lady Guinevere mode. And for the ultimate event dress, tiers of mixed fabrics made for a ruched, ruffled masterpiece.
Givenchy: You might not have realized it was a couture event, considering the hordes crushing through Givenchy's Avenue George V atelier, and the rough and rude security detail that kept everyone stumbling right along. Nevertheless, Riccardo Tisci's debut collection, shown in a series of tableaux vivants, was full of dark promise. The 30-year-old gave a nod to tradition but demonstrated a Gothic edge all his own. Snug jackets, one with its lapels cut in sharp fan pleats, and long, tailored skirts were Victorian-inspired. A woolly gown in black looked like it had been spun from luxe spiderweb, while a black trenchcoat was finished off with a flurry of ostrich plumes.Whether Tisci's clothes meet the haute standards of true couture, and whether he'll prove able to shoulder those demands, remains to be seen. But while he initially seemed like a wild card choice, his apparent skills as a ready-to-wear designer — though not as an event planner — put a hopeful spin on the future for Givenchy.
In his new book “Hollywood Royale,” Andy Warhol’s Protégé Matthew Rolston celebrates the Eighties revival of Hollywood glamour. Featuring more than 100 portraits taken by Rolston from 1977 to 1993, the book contains photos of icons like Michael Jackson, Cyndi Lauper, and @drewbarrymore, pictured here in 1991. “Hollywood Royale,” out today, will be accompanied by an exhibition opening at Los Angeles’ Fahey/Klein Gallery on March 1. #wwdeye
"Nowadays when life is not so happy with everything going on in the world, I think people come to me for a little bit of whimsy and color and fun." - Designer Rebecca De Ravenel on her cult-favorite jewelry line. (📸 : @vsteves) #wwd40
“Everyone is talking about how the retail industry is struggling, but I think it’s an incredible time because brands who are doing something different and innovative are setting themselves up for the future,” said @adamgoldston, who founded the luxury athletic brand @apl with his brother @ryangoldsten. The Goldston’s are part of WWD’s 40 under 40: a group of industry notables. See the rest of the list on WWD.com. (📷: @vsteves) #wwd40
@eyeswoon blogger Athena Calderone debuted her first-ever cookbook, “Cook Beautiful,” which is heavily centered on the presentation and visual expression of food. Pictured here are her miso glazed carrots from the book. Get the recipe on WWD.com. (📷: @johnny_miller_) #wwdeye
“It’s passion that helps get anybody to a certain point and it’s what’s propelled me,” said Kith founder @ronniefieg, one of WWD’s 40 under 40: a group of industry notables who are changing the face of retail, fashion and beauty. Fieg, who opened a Manhattan flagship on October 7, began his career at age 13 as a stock boy and salesman for footwear chain David Z. “I think staying true to [my] beliefs, hard work and passion have gotten me to where [Kith] is today.” See the rest of the 40 at WWD.com. (📷: @vsteves) #wwd40
25-year-old @samweaving is about to break out this fall, starring in Netflix’s horror film “The Babysitter,” fittingly out today on Friday the 13th. That’s not the only place you’ll be seeing her, though — Weaving’s got a role Showtime’s “SMILF” and another alongside Frances McDormand and Woody Harrelson in “Three Billboards Outside Ebbing, Missouri.” Though she’s got a full plate at the moment, there’s one role she’s got her eye on: Marilyn Monroe. “I’m a little too young at the moment, but it’s on my bucket list,” the actress told WWD (📷: @dandoperalski) #wwdeye
BFF's Poppy Jamie and Suki Waterhouse celebrated the launch of their bag line Pop x Suki at Nordstrom last night. "The line is really about our friendship, and how we are so different but complement each other," said Waterhouse. 👯 (📷: Katie Jones) #wwdeye
After designing the new @louisvuitton and @bulgariofficial flagships and a @chanelofficial boutique opening in Japan, @petermarinoarchitect has another project on his plate: The Lobster Club. Located in the Seagram Building, it’s the famed architect’s first restaurant project in New York, serving up modern Japanese brasserie-style cuisine. Bronze hues, bespoke material detailing, blush and chartreuse tones and a heavy emphasis on Picasso can be seen throughout. Mark your calendars for Nov. 1 for the much-anticipated opening. (📷: @clint_spaulding) #wwdeye
Did you know: @carlychaikin of "Mr. Robot" has been painting for about a decade? The actress, who plays Darlene on the show, is a self-taught artist who lists Salvador Dalí and Chuck Close as some of her idols. Chaikin told WWD that painting is a form of meditation for her — A much-needed one given the intensity of "Mr. Robot." See a piece Chaikin is working on at WWD.com (📷: @jilliansollazzo) #wwdeye