Paris Haute Couture Fall 2009

All the reviews, scoops and backstage beauty from Paris couture week.

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WWD’s ongoing coverage of haute couture week in Paris, including reviews, full runs of show, backstage images, video, front row coverage and Fashion Scoops.



Fashion Reviews


ALEXANDRE MATTHIEU: Invited to show during couture for the first time, Alexandre Morgando and Matthieu Bureau sent out a small collection of short, embellished dresses that variously evoked the fun of the circus, ice-skaters or a Parisian cabaret.


ALEXANDRE VAUTHIER: For his second couture collection, Vauthier improved on what’s becoming his signature: sculpted pagoda shoulders, which bear the mark of his onetime employer Thierry Mugler.


ALEXIS MABILLE: This hot young French designer can do girly or glamorous — and it all looks like a dream.


CHANEL: Provocateur that he is, Karl Lagerfeld knows that there’s something to be said for a high-profile flap now and then. So much so, that he transferred the notion to his haute couture collection for Chanel, which he showed on Tuesday evening against a set of four towering Chanel fragrance bottles.


CHRISTIAN DIOR: Everyone knows John Galliano is a brilliant designer and showman. But a savvy social chronicler, as well?


CHRISTIAN LACROIX: Christian Lacroix presented what very well may have been his last haute collection, perhaps his last of any sort, for the house he launched from his poufy Patou springboard back in the Eighties.


ELIE SAAB: This season, the designer said he wanted to explore purity in the form of an all-white lineup that his show notes said was also inspired by Art Nouveau master Alphonse Mucha and architecture.


GIORGIO ARMANI PRIVE: As a designer, Giorgio Armani exudes adult, self-assured cool, and his work appeals to women of like sensibility.


GIVENCHY: Riccardo Tisci has taken Givenchy far from Paris and set up camp in North Africa this season.


JEAN PAUL GAULTIER: The designer worked a cinematic theme, even closing his show with projections of the great screen legends of yore.


MAISON MARTIN MARGIELA: The designer concocted clever designs from an array of recycled materials, from ballpoint pen caps to bungee cords to false eyelashes.


RABIH KAYROUZ:  Marking a poetic Paris debut, Lebanese couturier Rabih Kayrouz’s collection focused on sculptural gowns and jackets with artisanal flourishes, such as hand-stitched seams or pleating.


STEPHANE ROLLAND: This season saw Rolland playing to his usual target with ultradramatic confections and an onslaught of architecturally derived decorative flourishes.


VALENTINO: Valentino’s Maria Grazia Chiuri and Pier Paolo Piccioli are over the homage phase. After last season’s debut couture collection that looked straight out of the archives, for fall the pair waved arrivederci to the familiar, taking the collection in an artsier, considerably younger direction.




 Chanel Couture Fall 2009


Dior Couture Fall 2009


Fashion Scoops


Front Row at Valentino

Front Row at Jean Paul Gaultier


Front Row At Lacroix: Well-Wishers Line Up


Front Row at Givenchy: Snapping Lacroix and Delphine Arnault

Front Row at Chanel: Pretty Young Things


Front Row at Alexandre Vauthier: Roisin Murphy Takes a Seat

Front Row at Giorgio Armani Privé: The Actress as Muse


Front Row at Dior: Gray Matter


Front Row at Stéphane Rolland: Three’s a Charm



Backstage Beauty


Valentino’s Vamps


Chic Androgyny at Armani


Givenchy’s Exotic Beauties


Somber and Classic at Christian Lacroix

Retro Lovelies at Dior


Ribbons and Lace at Alexis Mabille



BOUCHERON: Marc Newson unveiled a mesmerizing necklace he designed for the house that was inspired by fractals.


DIOR JOAILLERIE: Leave it to Victoire de Castellane to turn the macabre into the magnificent.


FABERGE:  The storied house has relaunched fine jewelry. The newest collection was inspired by Russian folklore.


ROGER VIVIER: Though the house is best known for its shoes, the focus of this fall couture collection is on bags.


FINE JEWELRY ROUNDUP: Fine jewelry houses see couture week as a perfect time to unveil their newest temptations, many inspired by nature or their own archives. See looks from Chanel, Bulgari, Pomellatto, Cartier, Van Cleef & Arpels and more.

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