Thierry Colson Encouraged by the success of his summer 2011 cruise collection, which was distributed by Opening Ceremony in the U.S., French designer-cum-fashion-editor Thierry Colson this season is taking to the catwalk. Colson will show on Oct. 5 at the Angelina tearoom in Paris. His romantic creations evoke French Classicism, often using handcrafted Indian fabrics. Inspired by French Orientalist paintings of the 19th century, highlights this season include a wisteria print on a gauzy white wrap top; shirtdresses in crisp, striped cotton men’s shirting fabrics, and caftans in sensual Indian gauzes. Colson’s muse could be a mix of Marie Antoinette, Josephine and Talitha Getty. — Laurent Folcher
Corrado De Biase Having trained as a shoe designer and collaborated on footwear lines for Fendi, Yves Saint Laurent and John Galliano, Corrado De Biase approaches clothing construction in a similar way to designing accessories. His first women’s wear collection was presented in Rome during couture week in July, at the invitation of his old boss, Silvia Venturini Fendi, and will be presented in Paris on Sept. 30 at the Salons Favori, 233 Rue Saint-Honoré in the 1st arrondissement. De Biase has added a few ready-to-wear pieces, with a full collection in the pipeline for fall. The Italian designer’s different approach can be seen in his experimental silhouettes that partly cover the body, pieced together with sections of industrial felt and organza. Hardware includes chunky black zippers and big snaps stitched with contrasting fluorescent threads.
De Biase’s obsession for Pierre Cardin emerges in stiff futuristic pieces with puzzle constructions. Cutouts give a nod to the Memphis design collective formed in Italy in the Eighties, notably the work of Ettore Sottsass. — L.F.
Benoît Méléard Some will remember Benoît Méléard as one of the first footwear designers to explore the kind of extreme shoe shapes today favored by the Lady Gagas of the world. The designer, whoworked at Robert Clergerie and then Charles Jourdan in the Nineties, collaborated with Helmut Lang, Jean Colonna and Jeremy Scott before launching his own line in 1998. Having since slipped off the radar, Méléard is back with a more purist collection, due to be presented at the Hotel Costes Oct. 3 and 4.
Also in early October, Méléard will open a shop on Rue Jean-Jacques-Rousseau, just steps away from the Places des Victoires. Dubbed Manifeste, the line pays homage to Méléard’s beloved late friend, the famous American shoe designer Beth Levine.
Méléard’s collection focuses on three simple shapes — a flat sandal, a stiletto and an elongated tongue shape dubbed Lollipop — in three refreshingly manageable heel heights. The palette is mostly black, with graphic accents of turquoise and flesh. Using mainly classic materials like kid suede, lambskin, patent leather and satin, one minimal Debbie Harry-style mule sandal sports a gray fleecelike fabric typically used for sweatshirts. — L.F.
Mus Entering its second season, Mus, the high-end travel knitwear line founded by Myriam Ullens, has tapped designer Véronique Leroy to collaborate on the line. Their first collection will be presented at Palais de Tokyo on Oct. 2, following Leroy’s show. The pair studied together in Belgium, where they’re from. Leroy said the great thing about working with knitwear is that you can create your own fabric from the yarn and experiment with textures. For example, she can create a terry-cloth texture, fluffy tweed or double-faced jacquard jersey, as seen in the line’s more urban reversible pieces.
Produced in Italy, the collection focuses on timeless wardrobe pieces, with Mus classics to be revisited each season. Spring includes some sharp urban daywear elements, while covetable resort looks include a terry-cloth robe, poncho and swimsuit. The label’s ultraluxe travel kit includes a macro cashmere cardigan that doubles as a blanket. Next season will see the addition of leather items. — L.F.
Mal-Aimée Designers Leonie Hostettler, 25, and Marius Borgeaud, 27, met while studying at the University of Art and Design in Geneva, but the pair’s strong chemistry really developed while working together under Olivier Theyskens at Nina Ricci. The design duo went on to form Mal-Aimée, which, lifted from a term associated with dark romanticism in French literature, translates literally as “unpopular person.” Far from brooding sensibilities, however, the label’s high-impact Eighties-inspired debut collection fuses bold shoulders with complex architectural hourglass constructions on tight frocks, bodysuits and leggings. Inspirations include Eighties Thierry Mugler and robots from “Transformers.” Details include metallic stitching echoing Art Deco grid motifs. High-waisted, carrot-shaped denim pants or sexy shorts give more of a street flavor, while the label’s softer side emerges in a line of romantic — and more commercial — flowing frocks. — L.F.
Ghadah Paris With the launch of her brand in 2005, Paris-based designer Ghadah Al Rashid set out to offer a younger, sophisticated alternative to the overcharged couture designs favored by her peers for weddings and special occasions in Saudi Arabia, where she grew up. This season, the designer, who in 2007 tapped Laurent Mercier as Ghadah’s artistic director, will present the brand’s first full daywear collection, from Oct. 3 to 7 at the Hotel Westin. Mercier oversaw the development of the line.
“It’s for the modern working woman, offering something chic and elegant but easy and simple,” said Al Rashid, adding that the range includes pants, skirts, jackets and shirts that can be mixed together in high-end fabrics. The brand counts around 25 points of sale, including Harrods in London and Le Bon Marché in Paris, with 15 new doors to be added over the next few months. Brand manager Laurent-Marie Affre confirmed Ghadah is currently readying entry into the U.S. market. — Katya Foreman
From overseeing America’s fastest-growing speciality retailers to codifying cool, WWD talked to the women who are leading the way for the future of beauty. Check out our Instagram Stories to see how these women built today and are creating tomorrow. (📸: @hannah_khymych) #wwdbeauty
For @laperlalingerie's spring 2018 show, the brand chose to host their event at @thevenetianmacao. With Chinese megastars @bingbing_fan and @hubing in attendance, La Perla debuted a rock ‘n’ roll-inspired collection. The show marked the start of Sands Macao Fashion Week, which runs from October 19 to 24 — the city’s first such event. Pictured here are models backstage with glimmering eyes. #wwdfashion (📷: Cheuk-Yin To)
Trending for spring 2018: top stitch design. Gone are the days of stitch just for seams — designers are using the once-minimal detail to create strong decorative elements. (📷: Paola Testa; Styled by @andrew_shang) #wwdfashion
@tradesy is turning the concept of a showroom upside down with its new space in Santa Monica. Here, the company plans to hold events, art exhibits and a showcase rare fashion pieces like this Louis Vuitton boxing set. Get all the details on Tradesy’s first showroom on WWD.com. #wwdnews
Spotted last night at the @erdem x @hm launch event: Kate Bosworth, Rashida Jones, Kirsten Dunst and Selma Blair. The party, which took place in LA, also marked the opening of their pop-up shop. “I was interested in creating a collection that wasn’t in any way disposable. It was about pieces you’d create and keep forever, things that have a permanence to it,” designer Erdem Moralioglu said. #wwdeye (📷: Katie Jones)
Renee Zellweger in yellow in 2001 and again in 2017. Chosen as one of the 12 @pantone Leading Spring Colors (and dubbed “Meadowlark”), it only makes sense that the bright hue stands the test of time and is making a resurgence this season, seen already on stars like @blakelively and @gigihadid. (📷: Donato Sardello & @rexfeatures) #wwdfashion #tbt
Dior’s 70th anniversary celebration continues with a new exhibition at the Royal Ontario Museum in Toronto. “Christian Dior,” which is scheduled to run through March 18, takes a look at the founders tenure from 1947 to 1057 and feature 40 designs. Pictured here is an evening gown from the Ailée, fall 1948-49 haute couture collection. #wwdfashion (📷: Brian Boyle)