AGNES B: You can always count on Agnes B. Once again, Paris's favorite designer of trendy basics, showing for the first time in her new rue de Rivoli space, has given her girlish troops a collection which covers everything from fake-fur-trimmed, candy-colored jackets to tailored corduroy pantsuits. The news this season is shape, she said, and cut her jackets accordingly: slightly flared and nipped at the waist. There were also bright crewneck sweaters, tiny pleated skirts, silver stretch jeans and her obligatory sailor pants and navy peacoats, this time done with slightly puffed shoulders.

JUNKO KOSHINO: Tokyo-based Junko Koshino sent out a collection dedicated to nature. But its strengths got buried under a mound of eco-tricks. Koshino showed beautiful long ribknit dresses, stretch mohair sweaters, clingy chocolate brown ribbed sweater dresses and long vest dresses that would appeal to many young women, ecologically correct or not. Unfortunately, they were all hidden under "cocoons," awkward wads of raw fabric.

INES DE LA FRESSANGE: Ines designs the kind of clothes that make women around the world envious of Parisiennes. Her work is discreetly elegant, with just enough flair to be interesting. This season's 90-piece collection, shown in an Avenue Montaigne penthouse, had a subtle military inspiration, with ribknit cashmere sailor sweaters, a Mao-collared taffeta evening jacket and a double-breasted black cashmere officer's coat. For those civilized Parisian evenings, there was a simple black cocktail dress or a long black panne velvet skirt.

BALENCIAGA: Josephus Thimister sent out a Balenciaga collection that might have made the master proud -- if just a little confused. It was billed as a return to Spain, so it was odd that the models marched out in thigh-high black suede boots, with faces and hair painted white and geisha-girl red lips. But there were strong looks for day, including a shocking red mohair minidress and a group of black velvet suits with bold white piping. Evening, however, was best, with bias-cut black satin dresses and a floor-length apron dress in sheer black silk. Thimister studied at the Royal Academy of Antwerp, and it's clear that he learned a thing or two there about the history of fashion.

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