AGNES B: You can always count on Agnes B. Once again, Paris's favorite designer of trendy basics, showing for the first time in her new rue de Rivoli space, has given her girlish troops a collection which covers everything from...
AGNES B: You can always count on Agnes B. Once again, Paris's favorite designer of trendy basics, showing for the first time in her new rue de Rivoli space, has given her girlish troops a collection which covers everything from fake-fur-trimmed, candy-colored jackets to tailored corduroy pantsuits. The news this season is shape, she said, and cut her jackets accordingly: slightly flared and nipped at the waist. There were also bright crewneck sweaters, tiny pleated skirts, silver stretch jeans and her obligatory sailor pants and navy peacoats, this time done with slightly puffed shoulders.
JUNKO KOSHINO: Tokyo-based Junko Koshino sent out a collection dedicated to nature. But its strengths got buried under a mound of eco-tricks. Koshino showed beautiful long ribknit dresses, stretch mohair sweaters, clingy chocolate brown ribbed sweater dresses and long vest dresses that would appeal to many young women, ecologically correct or not. Unfortunately, they were all hidden under "cocoons," awkward wads of raw fabric.
INES DE LA FRESSANGE: Ines designs the kind of clothes that make women around the world envious of Parisiennes. Her work is discreetly elegant, with just enough flair to be interesting. This season's 90-piece collection, shown in an Avenue Montaigne penthouse, had a subtle military inspiration, with ribknit cashmere sailor sweaters, a Mao-collared taffeta evening jacket and a double-breasted black cashmere officer's coat. For those civilized Parisian evenings, there was a simple black cocktail dress or a long black panne velvet skirt.
BALENCIAGA: Josephus Thimister sent out a Balenciaga collection that might have made the master proud -- if just a little confused. It was billed as a return to Spain, so it was odd that the models marched out in thigh-high black suede boots, with faces and hair painted white and geisha-girl red lips. But there were strong looks for day, including a shocking red mohair minidress and a group of black velvet suits with bold white piping. Evening, however, was best, with bias-cut black satin dresses and a floor-length apron dress in sheer black silk. Thimister studied at the Royal Academy of Antwerp, and it's clear that he learned a thing or two there about the history of fashion.PER SPOOK: This collection was elegant and low-key, with classic tailored shapes delivered in rich fabrics. Among the best looks: a beige cashmere shirtdress, a tweed coatdress over a matching short skirt and a long, fake-fur coat that reversed into a traditional trench. At night, tuxedos with long or short skirts got a little jolt from pink silk shirts.
JACQUES FATH: Fath designer Tom Van Lingen took a singular page from fashion's archives -- storybook fit-and-flare -- and turned it over again and again. Van Lingen just loves the frock coat. He cut it in various lengths and embellished with a vengeance, as though passementerie and drapery cord were about to be declared illegal substances. These jackets and coats covered ample layers beneath, especially skirts with asymmetric hems, Van Lingen's other big look. It was all worked in rich textures, from tweeds to brocades, and it did speak of a certain romance. But after a while, the redingotes, tassels and fur trims started to look like the old Lord & Taylor Christmas windows.
ORSON & BODIL: For fashion intellectuals who have been deconstructed to death, Dutch designer Alexander van Slobbe showed an elegant way out. His couture-influenced collection for Orson & Bodil was unapologetically pretty. Seemingly simple silhouettes featured texture plays -- as in a long, black Empire silk georgette dress worn with a cropped black leather vest. And, unlike some of his Belgian counterparts, van Slobbe isn't afraid of color. He showed a sweeping red mohair coat with a matching minidress, for example, and a cropped V-neck jacket with a matching sleeveless vest and skirt, all in shocking pink.
The Bulgari Bash
PARIS -- It seemed more than a little like Fort Knox. A squad of policemen, 20 bouncers and a ring of metal barriers surrounded Ledoyen restaurant on the Champs Elysees Thursday night for the party Bulgari threw for Robert Altman. Inside, a score of top models and as many designers, plus 300 other guests from the Paris fashion world, competed to get their faces into Altman's fashion fest. Bulgari underwrote the mega-fete to launch a new line of jewels and precious stones set in porcelain."Tonight I'm playing a paparazzi," said Helmut Newton, who was photographing the scene. Things got pretty confusing when scores of fashion victims began to bustle around Altman's camera, as Sophia Loren strode by in yet another hat. The invitations warned the partygoers not to say the actors' real names: If in doubt, "call them 'darling"' -- which is exactly what everyone did. Helena Christiansen told one bystander, "I'm playing myself" -- at which Yasmeen Ghauri cracked, "Yes, a slut."
Claudia Schiffer, who barely said a word, spent the soiree holding hands with her beau, David Copperfield.
Other guests included Astrid Kohl, Vanessa Van Zuylen, Laudonia Pucci, Vivienne Westwood, Nino Cerutti and Arielle Dombasle. Cher, in lots of Chrome Hearts leather, revealed that she's off to London on Saturday to record an album of George Gershwin songs, which will also feature Sting and Peter Gabriel.
In yet another fashion show shuffle, @elleryland is moving its show in sync with the Paris couture calendar — though the brand is still keeping one foot on the city’s ready-to-wear schedule. Their runway show in January will coincide with the launch of a new strategy: designing two main collections each year instead of four, which will then be released in four drops. “As we all know, the system needs to change. We need to show sooner to give time back to artisans and designers to do what they do best — create,” said founder Kym Ellery. #wwdnews #wwdfashion (📷: @kukukuba)
@maxmara’s classic 101801 coat was the cornerstone of its pre-fall 2018 collection. The design team expanded the traditional double-breasted, kimono-sleeved style into a trapeze coat, lean belted styles and a peacoat and presented them in monochromatic looks – like the camel one pictured here. #wwdfashion #prefall18 (📷: George Chinsee)
The @cfda has shifted the dates of #NYFW, with Men’s showing on February 5 through February 7, and Women’s will directly follow, running from February 8 through 14. The preliminary schedule will be released on the CFDA’s web site in the next few days, but Mark Beckham, VP of marketing for the CFDA, revealed that @rafsimons will be back to close the men’s-specific part of the week with a show on February 7 #wwdfashion (📷: Kelly Taub)
@ferragamo is introducing a new space dedicated to the development of women’s and men’s leather good samples. The laboratory, which is created eco-friendly materials and designed to reduce the environmental impact of the manufacturing processes, will allow the company to expand its accessories offering through traditional artisanal approaches. #wwdfashion (📷: @aitorrosasphoto)
How does a “regular, degular, schmegular” girl from the Bronx, N.Y., become a Grammy-nominated artist with a certified platinum record in less than a year? Call it the @iamcardib come up. The 25-year-old has become a musical sensation, and the fashion world is taking note. “If I could describe her style I would say drama. She’s really into the dramatics,” says Cardi B’s stylist @kollincarter. See how Carter styles her bold and out there looks with the link in bio. #wwdfashion
“There is no formula. There is no guideline. I can watch Ted Talks all day, but there is no one who can advise me on exactly what it is I should be doing,” said @ronniefieg, CEO of @kith, in an interview with WWD’s @ariahughes at the brand’s new SoHo office in Manhattan. Head to WWD.com to see how Fieg went from hanging out in shoe stockrooms at 13 to building his own business. #wwdfashion (📷: @weston.wells)
@fearofgod and @maxfieldla have teamed up on a pop-up installation. The store, located in the gallery space across from Maxfield’s Melrose Ave location, is the site of the brand’s House of God pop-up in which Fear of God founder @jerrylorenzo has created a church-inspired installation. A dozen vintage church pews sit in front of an LED screen playing 90s gospel singers in an effort to re-create an environment akin to a Southern Baptist Church, Lorenzo explained. Read more about the pop-up on WWD.com #wwdfashion (📷: Jennifer Johnson)
Known for his sleek, sophisticated American glamour, Norman Norell is the subject of an upcoming exhibition at @fitnyc. “Norell: Dean of American Fashion,” which runs from February 9 through April 14, will feature approximately 100 ensembles and accessories. His best work is exemplified by the designer’s glittering “mermaid” gowns frosted with thousands of hand-sewn sequins – like the one pictured. (📷: William Helburn) #wwdfashion
For pre-fall 2018, @balmain didn’t let go of the glitz. A crystal embroidered baseball jacket priced at around $40,000 hangs in the “couture” section of the brand’s first men’s pre-collection. Sporting the words “Balmain Army” across the back, the item took around two months to make. “When it was completed, it was like Christmas, it was like, ‘It’s done, it’s exactly what I wanted,’” said Balmain’s creative director @olivier_rousteing during a tour of the collection in a Paris showroom on Monday. #wwdfashion