LONDON — There’s nothing like a bit of rivalry to get a designer’s juices pumping — and Roland Mouret is no exception.
The French designer, who has been showing his collection at the Paris couture since 2007, is returning to the ready-to-wear calendar.
“Showing during couture was a great start, and I was able to express my point of view and vision. But my work is ready-to-wear, and I was feeling frustrated not showing alongside the competition. As a designer, you always need to be seeing what else is out there,” he said.
Mouret already pushed his production cycle forward to ensure that deliveries of his RM by Roland Mouret collection arrived in stores as early as possible. It made sense, he said at the time, to show in January and July.
His deliveries are still quite early compared with those of his competitors. The fall collection has already been sold, and will begin arriving on the shop floor three months after the Paris show. His spring 2010 collection will be in stores even earlier — two months after his show. “That is the meaning of luxury to me, being able to deliver the clothes to my customers as quickly as possible after the show,” he said.
Mouret, who has also done one-off projects with Net-a-porter.com, said he has some new Internet-related ideas on tap for the coming year. And he has been pushing into new markets in the Middle East and Europe as the recession begins to bite.
“We’ve been lucky so far with new independent stores and new markets. The debate today is not about offering expensive clothes or cheap ones,” he said. “It’s whether your clothes are relevant — or not.”
— Samantha Conti
JULIETTE HAS A GUN
PARIS — When Romano Ricci created the fragrance brand Juliette Has a Gun three years ago, giving his scents a fashion incarnation was already percolating in the back of his mind.
As the great grandson of Nina Ricci, fashion runs in his blood. But it took an agreement of like minds — enter his sister Antina, who was working in the studio of Kenzo Takada — for Romano to realize the dream.
The siblings are launching their first Juliette Has a Gun ready-to-wear collection during the Paris shows. Romano, 30, and Antina, 29, will present about a dozen looks by appointment in a showroom at 16 Place Vendôme.
The designers explained the inspiration for the fashion came from Romano’s fragrances, which he creates with different kinds of women in mind, from the sensual to aggressive.
“I always saw the brand as a universe,” said Romano, who often wears a fedora. “I’ve always considered my Juliette as very chic.”
The duo worked with a men’s suit pattern cutter to get the tailored dresses just right. They gravitated to fabrics like satin and grain de poudre, and offset the monochromatic black and blue pieces with red or white piping.
“Everything is very structured,” Antina said. “When a girl puts on the dress, we want her to feel as if she were assuming a role that is both romantic and strong.”
The Riccis said they hoped to keep the brand niche and exclusive for the moment, much like Romano’s fragrances, which are carried in stores such as Holt Renfrew and Selfridges.
“It would be great to keep it to about 30 stores in the world,” said Romano. “After all, everything is handmade in Paris.”
My character, Dinah Madani, is just the coolest, [most] badass woman imaginable," says @amberroserevah. The actress stars in @marvel's newest series on @netflix, @thepunisher. To prepare for her role, Revah sat down with Homeland agents to get a real sense of with Dinah's day-to-day life is really like. Read our full interview on WWD.com. #wwdeye (📷: @jilliansollazzo)
A scene from the 91st annual @macys Thanksgiving Day Parade. The parade, which boasts 50 million TV viewers and 3.5 million on-site spectators, is considered one of the largest and most watched parades in the world. (📷: Jason Szenes/EPA-REX)
The circus came to @bloomingdales 59th Street on Tuesday night and lit up Lexington Avenue with acrobatic dancers, death-defying knife throwing, sword swallowing and aerial acts with no net. The 45 minutes of theatrics built up to unveiling the holiday windows depicting @swarovski crystal-encrusted circus pieces and scenes from “The Greatest Showman” – songs from the soundtrack included. See the rest of the photos on WWD.com #wwdfashion (📷: Joshua Scott)
The psychedelic fashion that pervaded the ’60s is back with an exhibit at the @museumofcityny. “Mode New York: Fashion Takes a Trip” chronicles the changing styles from 1960 through 1973 and features designers such as @ysl, @oscardelarenta and more. The exhibition, which is on display through April 1, is organized into four periods: First Lady Fasion, Youthquake, New Bohemia and New Nonchalance. Pictured here is model Pat Bardonella during the Garvey Day Parade in 1968. (📷: @kwamebphoto) #wwdeye #wwdfashion
“People should be a lot more honest in expressing both the dark and light of themselves. We need to give each other the space to do that because it’s the only way we can grow and evolve,” says @noelwells of her new film “Mr. Roosevelt,” which is largely based on her own struggles. Unexpectedly leaving @nbcsnl in 2014 after just one season, Wells felt set back in her self-esteem and career trajectory. She quickly refocused her energy to more personal projects, which led to the completion of “Mr. Roosevelt.” Read the rest of WWD’s interview with the “Master of None” actress on WWD.com #wwdeye (📷: @jilliansollazzo)
@barbrastreisand is giving fans a chance to see her perform up close in a new concert series, which makes its debut on @Netflix today. From behind-the-scenes takes to her concert performance in Miami last December, the two-hour streaming special captures Streisand in her element. Pictured here is the singer/actress photographed for WWD in 1963. (📷: Palmieri Tony) #wwdeye #wwdarchive
@chanel and @pharrell dropped what’s being dubbed as the world’s most exclusive sneakers yesterday. The Adidas Originals NMD Hu, which Williams designed in collaboration with Chanel and @adidasoriginals, has a waiting list of over 120K people who pre-registered online at chanelatcolette.fr –– and only 500 pairs are on sale. The singer predicted the resale value of the shoes could reach $40K. Read the full interview on WWD.com. Link in bio. #wwdfashion (📷: Dominique Maître)
@imanshumpert is diving deeper into his creative endeavors and relaunching his clothing line, Post 90s, and is helping to raise money for the hurricane victims in St. Maarten with a jersey he’s designed with his brother. The Cleveland Cavaliers player talked to WWD about kneeling during the national anthem, working with fashion brands and how he wants to be more than an @nba player. Read the interview on WWD.com #wwdfashion (📷: George Chinese)