MILAN — A year of recovery was how Pitti president Gaetano Marzotto termed 2010 here Wednesday, as he set the scene for the 79th edition of Pitti Immagine Uomo, which kicks off Jan. 11 in Florence.
“We’ve seen positive signs the textile industry has recovered, and now it appears the apparel sector is, too,” said Marzotto, although he stressed the fashion industry has yet to fully bounce back from the economic downturn. According to research by the Italian fashion and textile consortium SMI Sistema Moda Italia, based on a survey of 160 textile companies, Italy’s textile and fashion sector saw a continuous uptick in sales throughout the first nine months of the year. The third quarter saw a 6.8 percent increase in revenues.
Marzotto highlighted currency woes and the need for a weaker euro if the Italian fashion industry is to retain competitive prices in export markets including the U.S. and Asia. Following a drop in international exports last year. The country’s exports grew 4 percent in the first seven months of the year to around 14 billion euros, or about $19 billion. It registered a 10.5 percent increase in exports to the U.S. and a 27 percent rise in shipments to Hong Kong in the period of January to July compared to the same period in 2009, according to SMI data.
The upcoming Pitti Uomo’s theme is “PittiCity,” which aims to emphasize its varied offerings. Hoping to tempt buyers in the main pavilion will be open-plan stands reminiscent of department stores, and a renewed ground-floor layout, which completes the pavilion’s transformation that was started in 2009 by Spanish architect Patricia Urquiola. Pop-up stores will have a lifestyle appeal and feature design items and, for the first time, beauty products.
Sportswear will extend its presence at the fair. Marina Yachting and C.P. Company have both leased larger exhibition areas, and brands including Façonnable and Jeckerson are notable reentries. New label Albert Arts will also make its world debut in the sports pavilion. Related events set to bolster the category’s reach include the 125th celebration of Italian sneaker brand Pantofola d’Oro in conjunction with the magazine L’Uomo Vogue, and Umbro’s unveiling of its new capsule collection.
Other fair highlights include fall previews from U.S. designer Adam Kimmel; Scottish brand Folk Clothing, and American shirt brand Arrow, part of Phillips-Van Heusen. Italian sartorial label Lubiam will present its centennial capsule collection and host a celebratory installation at Villa Vittoria. Liberty of London men’s wear — produced and distributed by its Italian partner, Slowear Group — is set to make its debut fair appearance at the city’s British library, and Hugo Boss will return to the fair with its Boss Selection line. Fabio Quaranta and Andrea Incontri, upcoming Italian designers and winners of this year’s “Who Is On Next?” Pitti Uomo competition, will also showcase their latest offerings.
Special guests this season include Trussardi, guest of honor Alberta Ferretti and Gareth Pugh for Pitti W. Beatrice Trussardi, president and chief executive officer of the Trussardi Group, said Stazione Leopolda will play host to its runway show on Jan. 12 to honor the brand’s centennial. The capsule collection will be available to preorder the same day from e-tailer TheCorner.com.
Pugh will use the San Michele tower to preview a film shot in Florence, according to Lapo Cianchi, director of communication and special events of Pitti Immagine, while Alberta Ferretti will show a special women’s wear collection in the Florentine Santo Stefano church.
As one of the most recognizable models in the world, Christy Turlington Burns has an insider’s view of the fashion industry and the allegations of sexual harassment swirling around it. “I can say that harassment and mistreatment have always been widely known and tolerated in the industry. The industry is surrounded by predators who thrive on the constant rejection and loneliness so many of us have experiences at some point in our careers,” Turlington told WWD, along with her suggestions for how the modeling world should protect younger women and men. Read more on WWD.com. Link in bio. (📷: Tony Palmieri) #wwdnews
@asics America has tapped a new brand ambassador: famed DJ/record producer @steveaoki. This initiative is intended to set the tone for the new brand identity and philosophy and will include partnerships with influencers and in-store and off-line activations that will continue into next year. This is Asics’ most significant marketing effort in two decades, and is expected to attract younger consumers to the brand. #wwdfashion
24-year-old Jean Prounis is redefining the rules of jewelry. Formerly a studio assistant to Jemima Kirke and a design apprentice at Ghuran, she focuses on handcrafted subtleties and ancient goldsmithing techniques. “There was a really sterile feel in the environment and I wanted to have jewelry with character that shapes how you wear it everyday,” Prounis said. Each piece is hand made in New York, either by Prounis or three other jewelers in the district. #wwdfashion
“These collections continue to build on that vision, empowering differently abled adults to express themselves through fashion,” said @tommyhilfiger of his line of adaptive apparel, which launches today. The line consists of 37 men’s and 34 women’s styles based upon the pieces from the spring Tommy Hilfiger sportswear collection. #wwdnews
“Stranger Things” is getting a new cast member for season 2. Meet @sadiesink_, the 15-year-old who will be joining the Netflix series for its new season. You may recognize her from “The Glass Castle” with Brie Larson and Woody Harrelson, but the Texas native’s next role goes in an entirely different direction. She describes her character, Max, as “a rough and tumble skater girl [who] becomes friends with the boys at school.” The second season debuts on October 27. (📷: @jgreenery) #wwdeye
Amid the Harvey Weinstein controversy, there’s another sector that’s being put under the spotlight for sexual abuse: the modeling industry. While rumors about abuse and sexual harassment of female and male models — and the photographers, agents and others who perpetrated it — have circulated within the fashion world for years, model @cameronrussell started posting stories from models on Instagram last week about abusive situations they’ve encountered — from sexual harassment and molestation to attempted rape. Over 75 have weighed in so far. Read more on WWD.com. Link in bio. #wwdnews
To celebrate its 16th anniversary, @dylanscandybar tapped designers and celebrities to create mosaics out of candy. The mosaics will be auctioned off to support the philanthropic cause of each participant’s choice. Pictured here is the mural created by @aliceandolivia's Stacey Bendet. For a first look at some of the other artwork being unveiled tonight, go to WWD.com. #wwdeye
The annual Veuve Clicquot Polo Classic in Pacific Palisades this weekend drew Kate Hudson, Tracee Ellis Ross, Laura Dern and more. See pictures of the star-studded event on WWD.com. (📷: @chelsealaurenla) #wwdeye
In his new book “Hollywood Royale,” Andy Warhol’s Protégé Matthew Rolston celebrates the Eighties revival of Hollywood glamour. Featuring more than 100 portraits taken by Rolston from 1977 to 1993, the book contains photos of icons like Michael Jackson, Cyndi Lauper, and @drewbarrymore, pictured here in 1991. “Hollywood Royale,” out today, will be accompanied by an exhibition opening at Los Angeles’ Fahey/Klein Gallery on March 1. #wwdeye