With splashes of gold, sharp tailoring and inspirations that range from luxurious gypsies to ‘Charlie’s Angels,’ designers are orchestrating fall’s rich mix.
Roland Mouret: Within the last year and a half, London-based Roland Mouret has proven himself to be a viable force at New York Fashion Week. With three stellar collections behind him and a burgeoning clientele at Bergdorf Goodman, he’s surely on the rise.
Mouret is both a master draper and a sharp tailor, and, contrary to most of his contemporaries this week, Mouret chose to focus mostly on the latter, foregoing any soft swag in favor of a superslim, sometimes-corseted silhouette. Wool crepe in black or sumptuous peacock blue made for ultrasexy dresses with sculpted puff sleeves. He folded and shaped everything from Prince of Wales check jackets to washed leather trenches. Mouret’s softer side came in the form of yummy cashmeres, as in a houndstooth twinset in turquoise and black. Some in the audience were thrown off by the mile-high stilettos and buttons up the back of skirts, but hey, if you’ve got it, flaunt it.
Chaiken: Ever since all the DIY shows made painting — and then repainting — just the thing to add a little spice to a dull room, people, including designers, have been rethinking color. Sponsored by Benjamin Moore, Jeff Mahshie asked his Chaiken audience: Let’s rethink the color scheme of your wardrobe, shall we? He took the classic khaki trench and reworked it, first in a divine pine green and then in the deepest aubergine, replacing the traditional belt with a wide, ribboned band — a seemingly small change that reaped a big, sophisticated result. Such beautiful hues and subtle details marked the rest of the lineup, including skirts in Mediterranean blue or olive that swirled around the body and wool knits in earth tones that wrapped and fell gently. Except for two incongruous sailor tops, these were the sort of clothes that a girl might not buy just one of — she’d get one in every color.
Nanette Lepore: In Nanette Lepore’s world, everything that glitters is gold…and blue and green and purple and pink. Lepore is of the credo, “If you’re going to do something, go full throttle.” Thus, she added go-go glitz, unapologetically, to almost every texture, color and accessory. The designer’s fall muse was certainly a gypsy, but gosh darn if she wasn’t the luxest-looking lady in the velvet-lined caravan and clearly descended from royalty. Her uniform was the flirty, flowy tops, dresses and skirts that a Lepore label guarantees, piled on with rich prints and more than a smattering of sequins. A fleet of poet blouses breezed by in whisper-thin printed chiffon shot through with metallic gold threads. But a girl can’t go about like a walking Fort Knox, after all, and Lepore did attempt — though she could have done much more — to anchor the klieg-like shine with great dark blue skinny jeans or tweed jackets and cropped pants.
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