Marc Jacobs: Fashion is global. An overused cliché, perhaps, but not entirely true, as we still take very different expectations to the various fashion centers. And Paris still reigns as the capital of fashion thrills. Which is why that semiannual trek to the Lexington Avenue Armory is so packed with anticipation. We go expecting more than a pretty dress, and almost always, Marc Jacobs delivers, often rejuicing favorite motifs with a new punch. Even so, well into his mature designer phase, the flowering of the past few years has been something to see, growth that found breathtaking expression in the collection he showed on Monday night. It exemplified very clearly the influence of 10 years in Paris on Jacobs' American roots, his natural audacity and wit refined and bolstered by the French sophistication and obsession with creativity.
The collection gave a lyrical aura to some pretty outlandish themes, "lighthearted and a bit corny," according to Jacobs. "Too conventional feels old-fashioned." He showed against a stunning Stefan Beckman set, sweeping wallpaper hills behind a bright green runway raised over a rippling stream made of candy. Jacobs kept the palette and the mood light as air — the music was a variation on Pachelbel's "Canon in D" — despite the abundance of stuff worn in various displays of eccentricity, the overall girliness twisted by a faux-butch counterpoint. There were mesmerizing metallics, cellophanes, laces, ruffles, avian appliqués, jersey collages, glitter and khakis, not to mention ample evidence that Jacobs has developed a headgear fetish. "The more loaded up, the better," he said. "People like fashion at the moment." It's hard to imagine fashion girls not liking the gorgeous coats and jackets, winsome dresses, delicate blouses and eccentric Ts. And, of course, the gleefully ostentatious handbags, in pairings of exotic skins with big, flashy jewels. As for the pants, they were a middle-school English teacher's dream, a lesson in comparatives — tricky, trickier and trickiest, à la early As Four. Still, Jacobs insists they're not a joke.
But no matter. The real message here was about knocking grand fashion off its pedestal so that it speaks to the (rich) girl on the street.
“What he has done at Vuitton is really exceptional,” said @gameofthrones’ actress Gwendoline Christie on @mrkimjones’ final show for @louisvuitton. “He has rebooted luxury in terms of making it commercial, viable and contemporary. And most importantly artistic. He has never compromised his artistic vision for the sake of commodity.” (📷: @zefashioninsider)
After seeing a demand for men’s wear from its customers, British contemporary women’s wear label @ariesarise has added a men’s wear component and will launch a unisex collection with @mrporterlive. The 20-piece collection includes jackets, denim, logo T-shirts and more with deconstructed ‘90s vibes. Set to launch on January 18, you can shop the pieces on Aries’ website and on mrporter.com. #wwdfashion
“And so spending so much time with a character who thinks like that, inevitability you try and analyze yourself and go back and think about your own demons and dark chapters that you had in your life,” says @thedanielbruhl of his role in TNT’s “The Alienist.” The show, set in the Gilded Age of New York, also stars Dakota Fanning and Luke Evans. Head to WWD.com to read about how 39-year-old Brühl prepared for the role and why he thinks the show is so relevant to today #wwdeye ( 📷: @Eriktanner)
Now that Celine Dion’s collection has topped $10 million in sales, the pop superstar, fashion icon and newly-minted industry player is eyeing growth in Asia. Read the full report by @tiffanyap, link in bio. #wwdnews #celinedion
“My personal philosophy to beauty is paying attention to oneself. I love to be outdoors, lots of fresh air, trying to take care of yourself as best you can. I always notice that comes through,” says Felicity Jones, the global face of @shiseido-owned @cledepeaubeauteus, which launches today. Head to WWD.com to read more about the actress’ love for beauty and how she prepared for her new role in “The Basis of Sex,” playing the young Ruth Bader Ginsburg. #wwdbeauty (📷: @dandoperalski)
Among the familiar faces at @off____white’s show was a surprise figure: Japanese artist @takashipom, pictured here on Wednesday morning. Other show-goers included @jerrylorenzo, who spoke about his upcoming project: a @nike collaboration for back to school, with designs inspired by his childhood on the West Coast. Sitting in the front row were Future, Don Crawley, @miguel and more. See the rest of the photos on WWD.com #wwdeye (📷: Stephane Feugere)
According to @laurentsai, former “Terrace House: Aloha State” cast member, she didn’t know she was auditioning for the Japanese version of “Real World.” “I was telling a couple of my friends and someone’s like, ‘That sounds a lot like Terrace House.’ I was like, ’No it can’t be.’” Turns out, it was. But Tsai isn’t just a reality star — she’s an illustrator who has worked with Starbucks Japan and most recently, she’s dipping her toes into the fashion world. Head to WWD.com to read about her time on the show, modeling and her art. #wwdeye (📷: @danieldorsa)
More changes are coming to New York Fashion Week: Beginning with the spring 2019 collection, @alexanderwangny will move his New York show to June from September, adopting a biannual schedule with collections shown in June and December. Additionally, the @cfda is planning for an official summer/winter fashion season taking place as soon as June and December 2018. Read more about the upcoming changes on WWD.com. #wwdnews #wwdfashion (📷: @slovekinpics)