Martin Margiela: Edgy Martin Margiela flirted with, of all things, convention in his latest collection. While the elusive Belgian may be best known for his deconstructed looks, he took a more lighthearted approach this time, and it was a welcome change. OK, there were still eccentric touches — including a plush boa constrictor doubling as a scarf — but there were many chic — and dare we say it, sexy — pieces. Margiela used innovative stitching techniques, opening the seams of a coat, for instance, and folding back the fabric to expose the lining beneath or elongating collars of trenchcoats, jackets and sweaters to form hoods. He hasn’t abandoned his experiments, however, which this season translated into a jacket made of recycled wigs, and a dress of Ace bandages. But showing his new commercial bent, Margiela unveiled his first accessories line for men and women, which will bow in stores this fall. One handbag incorporates a men’s evening scarf as a handle, while others resemble musical-instrument cases. Margiela also turned out a new line of mismatched shoes and a silver jewelry collection.
This story first appeared in the March 4, 2005 issue of WWD. Subscribe Today.