When one goes to a Prada show and doesn't find a big message — or, worse yet, fears having missed it — confusion can set in. Especially as the follow-up to fall's urban-warrior spectacular, the collection Miuccia Prada showed on Tuesday felt oddly subdued and without a major point beyond an array of beautiful, very commercial clothes.
What's wrong with that, you say? Not a thing in the world, except for the wow-factor expectation that precedes Prada's every move, and that her presentations bear a subtle grandeur to which the fashion must stand up.
Here, she set her audience up for just that: Her set featured a graphic could-be-Eastern/could-be-Aztec projection, and the first look out, the girl all turbaned and satined atop bare legs, looked like the prelude to a stunner.
This established a Forties' tone that continued throughout while never achieving the designer's typical depth. It vacillated between serious chic, in gorgeous, lean dresses and a high-polish pinup festival; the gam-flashing courtesy of shorts; swimwearish microminis, and blouses belted over briefs, some accessorized with utilitarian backpacks for that dose of modern edge. She also tinkered with sheer in girlish frocks over ample undies as well as out-there evening looks made of cast-off bottle caps à la Alexander Calder.
After the show, Prada preferred not to elaborate, but when pressed, cited as a reference not the Forties but the Twenties, along with China, India, Africa and nurses' uniforms.
"Beauty is a moral concept," she said. "Beauty is the search for good." And in fashion, the search is for good clothes, which Prada provided.
As for a larger concept — moral or otherwise — it was not included this season.
Harrods plans to remove the famous statue of Princess Diana and Dodi Al Fayed from the bottom of the Egyptian escalators and hand it back to Mohamed Al-Fayed. “We are very proud to have played our role in celebrating the lives of Diana, Princess of Wales and Dodi Al Fayed at Harrods and to have welcomed people from around the world to visit the memorial for the past 20 years,” said Michael Ward, Harrods managing director. “With the announcement of the new official memorial statue to Diana, Princess of Wales at Kensington Palace, we feel that the time is right to return this memorial to Mr. Al Fayed and for the public to be invited to pay their respects at the palace.” More on the news, with reporting by @loreleimarfil, at WWD.com. #wwdnews
@prada is introducing a new project at its men’s fall 2018 show this Sunday: “Prada Invites.” The fashion house invited four celebrated creative minds – @ronanaerwanbouroullec, Konstantin Grcic, @herzogdemeuron and @rem.koolhaas – to each create a unique item with its iconic nylon material. The designs will be unveiled on the runway show, which will take place at the company’s warehouse in Viale Ortles 25. #wwdfashion #mfwm (📷: @martinocarrera)
@kering_official is spinning off its stake in puma in an effort to focus on its luxury brands, the brand operator announced yesterday. “We are proud to have supported the turnaround of Puma, which now has unrivaled capabilities to take full advantage of the specific dynamics of its global markets and is poised to achieve substantial growth,” said François-Henri Pinault, Kering’s chief executive officer and chairman. Artémis will become a “long-term strategic shareholder” of Puma with a 29 percent stake. #wwdnews #wwdfashion (📷: @jilliansollazzo)
The fashion world mourns for celebrated street style photographer, Nabile Quenum, who died at age 32 in Paris.
Quenum, creator of the fashion blog “J’ai Perdu Ma Veste,” was a fashion week fixture, and regularly shot for New York magazine’s The Cut, among other outlets, and brands such as Louis Vuitton, Moncler and Adidas. He was also actively involved in the #NoFreePhotos initiative, which kicked off in the fall. Read more about Quenum in @kbsmoke's story on WWD.com. #wwdnews
@verwanggang and @maisonladuree have teamed up on a dessert collab called Vera Wang Pour Ladurée. The collection, which launched this week, features a specialty macaroon, as well as a wedding cake inspired by one of the designer’s gowns. “I could not imagine a more delicate or sophisticated creation to grace any couple’s celebration,” said Wang. #wwdfashion