Marc Jacobs: Arrivederci, frivolity, girliness, piles and piles of fluff stuff! Ciao, bella, molto chic!
Such was the seismic shift from Marc Jacobs, who for the moment at least is fed up with what he calls "craziness and fashion hijinks." The beautiful collection he showed on Monday night stunned with its bourgeois grandeur, a mood that could not have leapt further from that of last season when he proclaimed "too conventional feels old-fashioned."
This collection was all about convention — it was inspired by a movie about a fascist, for heaven's sake, Bertolucci's "The Conformist." If that rings as a late-Thirties-by-way-of-Seventies motif — bingo! (A more current inspiration: Stephanie Seymour, who at a recent dinner captivated Jacobs with the alluring simplicity of her black turtleneck and pencil skirt.)
Once again, Jacobs showed against a spectacular Stefan Beckman set. To open the show, a huge theatrical curtain parted, revealing four enormous doorways with all of Jacobs' 56 models posing in front. The scene made for high drama of the understandable sort, with lots of chic tailoring, subdued autumnal colors and Stephen Jones' dramatic-brimmed diva-by-day hats. As the models took to the runway — itself an ode to clinical perfection with its cold gray geometric pattern — the exacting cuts came into clear focus, as did the influence of one of Jacobs' favorite references, Yves Saint Laurent.
This was as austere as Jacobs gets, his models' hair slicked back, their clothes ultra-precise — perfect belted coats, a military reference or two, a spectacular array of shirtdresses from dark icy lamé to schoolmarm gray pleats. Boning intensified the shape of simple sweaters worn over pleated skirts, while a quietly subversive gender play emerged in reed-thin pantsuits with spencer jackets and some seriously severe sequins.
But perhaps the clearest expression of his about-face came via his handbags, last season's huge, chaotic crystals replaced by precise geometric medallion closures crafted from various semiprecious stones.
Overall, the contrast was captivating. "The complete turnaround from layers to structured simple pieces was a shock, but I always expect to be shocked," said Saks Fifth Avenue's Michael Fink after the show. "It was so beautiful."Bergdorf Goodman's Roopal Patel added that the show provided a reminder that Jacobs "doesn't need bells and whistles to be the genius designer he is." Which is not to say the bells, whistles, grunge, girliness and counterculture eccentricity are gone forever. Perusing an accessories tray on a table in his showroom the day before his show, Jacobs picked up a bracelet made from several enormous, perfectly carved quartz pyramids set in gold. "This," he said, referring to the metal-stud-and-leather standard from which it was spawned, "is still a punk bracelet."
Bill Blass: Like several other designers this season, Bill Blass' Michael Vollbracht sensed that it was time to simplify things on the runway. To that end, his fall collection recalled a cleaner, unfussy time in American fashion when the big guns of design — Norman Norell, Halston and, of course, Blass himself — concentrated on precision cuts and bold color plays. Vollbracht's parade of coats, day dresses and suits mixed strong hues — green over plum, blue over pink and so on — and while they were refreshing in their unfettered lines, the silhouettes could have used a little updating. But all was forgiven with that fun, old-school finale, when a gaggle of models crowded the catwalk in an array of swingy, sequined and oh-so-chic little black dresses.
Monique Lhuillier: Monique Lhuillier rendered beautiful, commercially viable looks in her collection on Monday, but what she sometimes lacked was a distinct voice of her own — as seen in several numbers that hinted at other designers. Lhuillier took cues from Frank Gehry's Disney Concert Hall with a series of metallic cocktail dresses and wispy gowns, all executed with the utmost attention to detail: pintucked, ruched, ruffled and seamed to a T, though sometimes those points were overworked. Nevertheless, starlets still shopping for an Oscar-worthy dress will likely find lots of good options here.
@chanel and @pharrell dropped what’s being dubbed as the world’s most exclusive sneakers yesterday. The Adidas Originals NMD Hu, which Williams designed in collaboration with Chanel and @adidasoriginals, has a waiting list of over 120K people who pre-registered online at chanelatcolette.fr –– and only 500 pairs are on sale. The singer predicted the resale value of the shoes could reach $40K. Read the full interview on WWD.com. Link in bio. #wwdfashion (📷: Dominique Maître)
@imanshumpert is diving deeper into his creative endeavors and relaunching his clothing line, Post 90s, and is helping to raise money for the hurricane victims in St. Maarten with a jersey he’s designed with his brother. The Cleveland Cavaliers player talked to WWD about kneeling during the national anthem, working with fashion brands and how he wants to be more than an @nba player. Read the interview on WWD.com #wwdfashion (📷: George Chinese)
Not only does #TheProfit return to CNBC tonight, but @marcuslemonis has launched @shopmarcus, a new shopping and lifestyle retail experience in Aspen and Chicago, with more locations to come. The retail stores offer in-store stylists and a variety of contemporary womenswear selections.
“It’s life, I’m going to face it,” @mingxi11 sighed. “I fell, but you know, I think the most important thing is that I get back up. I had the love, the help from my sister — the girl next to me Gizele [Oliveira] — she’s so nice. When I went backstage everybody was trying to comfort me like ‘Oh Ming, it’s OK.’ I’m really, really touched. I think it’s them who gave me the courage to go back on stage for the finale,” Xi told WWD of her fall at the @victoriassecret fashion show. (📷: David Fisher) #wwdfashion #vsfashionshow #victoriassecret
@louisvuitton tapped @therealpeterlindbergh for its latest city-centric photo book, which is part of a series called Fashion Eye. The primarily black and white book captures the spirit of Berlin in 57 images shot between 1989 and 2019. “Berlin is an inspiration for me, more than a city. I mean @millajovovich is simply Berlin!” said Lindbergh. #wwdfashion
“You know, I think audiences expect a certain performance so I have to deliver to them what they’re expecting to a certain degree. But I’m also a different actor and a different person, I have my own spin on the character,” says @noahegalvin of his takeover of the leading role in “Dear Evan Hansen” following the departure of @bensplatt, who originated the role. Read WWD’s interview with the 23-year-old actor on WWD.com #wwdeye (📷: @jilliansollazzo)
For pre-fall 2018, @etro created richly-colored wonderland, using tapestries, textiles and wallpapers from the Eastern world at large. The line featured floral and graphic prints and jacquard motifs, like this two-piece look featured here. #wwdfashion (📷: Giovanna Pavesi)
@kith is moving into children’s. The men’s and women’s streetwear brand has launched Kidset, a Kith kids line located in New York at 64 Bleecker Street. The line includes mini versions of staple Kith pieces like the Astor bomber jacket and the Kith box logo sweatshirts, along with a wall that can display up to 120 pairs of shoes from @adidas, @newbalance, @timberland and more. #wwdfashion
“I just wanted to create this fully rounded character, but I do think what excited me most was just the opportunity to give a group of people representation that I feel needs it. I like to do characters in projects that stand for something and Karolina definitely does, so that was really exciting to me,” @ginnygardner says of her new role in @hulu’s “The Runaways.” Gardner plays Karolina Dean, a queer superhero, which is a rarity for @marvel. Read more about Gardner’s character on WWD.com #wwdeye (📷: @dandoperalski)