The architectural design team of Elizabeth Diller and Ricardo Scofidio have made the temporal exploration of space a central theme of their work for two decades, as demonstrated by an exhibit currently on view at the Whitney Museum of American Art...
The architectural design team of Elizabeth Diller and Ricardo Scofidio have made the temporal exploration of space a central theme of their work fortwo decades, as demonstrated by an exhibit currently on view at the Whitney Museum of American Art that pokes holes in the very nature of the museum space. Several installations of Diller + Scofidio are enclosed in a series of wide walls, which themselves become part of the show as they are repeatedly punctured by a robotic drill that will eventually perforate the entire exhibition, creating a larger, interconnected space by the time it closes May 25.
The idea is to break down the codes of society that the architects consider a legacy of the modernist era, many of which are driven by a thirst for efficiency. For example, in a work entitled "Bad Press," Diller + Scofidio looked at methods of ironing men’s dress shirts employed in the early part of the 20th century, which were designed to make a woman’s work at home more economical, freeing her up to join the labor force, while also turning the perfect shirt creases into a status symbol.
Taking the idea a step further, the architects used irons to create new, geometric crease patterns on shirts. (Eagle-eyed fashion observers will note in an accompanying video that the model wearing the results is the architect Calvert Wright, who designed Narciso Rodriguez’s Manhattan apartment, among others, and studied under Diller at Princeton in 1992.)
While provocative, Diller noted, the work may not necessarily break down the existing codes of fashion, an overly ambitious project for any architect.
"Fashion is full of codes — gender codes, age codes and propriety of all sorts," she said. "They are constantly being challenged and played with. It’s the one place where the codes exceed those of architecture."
“Azzedine has been one of the biggest influences in my life. He has always been such a strong, loving, fatherly figure to me. I call him Papa. His designs are indescribably unique, they are pieces of art. He knew how to make the female form look its loveliest. I have so many memories of him; my favorite might be during my first show with him in Paris. He liked me and he wanted to help me get more work. He called all his friends at Kenzo and Comme des Garcons, and asked them to book me. They said, ‘But she can’t walk!’ And he said, ‘but she has such a great ass!' His friendship and support has been the great privilege of my career. I can't imagine life without him. Repose en paix mon Papa.” - @stephanieseymour tells @wwd. #wwdfashion (📷: @steveeichner) #alaia #azzedinealaia
Azzedine Alaïa, flanked by two of his closest friends, models Stephanie Seymour and Naomi Campbell.
He designed Seymour’s dress for her 1995 wedding to Peter Brant, and treated Campbell (who famously called him Papa), like a daughter. For more on the legendary designer, tap the link in bio. #wwdfashion #alaia #azzedinealaia
Azzedine Alaïa's “I-did-it-my-way” ethos stood out starkly at a time when brands are experimenting with consumer-facing fashion shows, coed formats and trans-seasonal collections – anything to perk up lackluster sales of ready-to-wear in an age of Insta-everything. “It’s not creation anymore. This becomes a purely industrial approach,” the late designer told WWD in an interview last year. “But anyway, the rhythm of collections is so stupid. It’s unsustainable. There are too many collections.” Read more about the iconic designer’s life and work on wwd.com, link in bio. #wwdfashion #azzedinealaia (📷: @WWD Archive, 1986) #alaia
Sneaker reselling app @goat’s latest exhibit, "The Greatest: New York," tells the story of New York's sneaker culture. To celebrate the exhibit, an intimate crowd gathered on Thursday night at the pop-up gallery space, located at Platform in Culver City, to hear guest speaker and illustrator @esymai talk about her own rise in streetwear and women in the business. "For me I'm just someone who is creative. I like to create things," said Chang. #wwdfashion
Azzedine Alaïa, one of the most iconic couturiers of the modern era whose body-con designs defined Eighties fashion, has died in Paris. The diminutive Tunisian-born designer, known for his structured knitted dresses with fitted waists and impeccably cut, figure-hugging second skin silhouettes was deeply admired by his peers, and counted supermodel Naomi Campbell - his adoptive daughter - among his inner circle, one of a gang of glamazons including Farida Khelfa, Carla Bruni and Stephanie Seymour who became ambassadors of his style. (📷: Alexandre Guirkinger) #wwdblast