Pretty Ideas and Active Imaginations – Akris, Junya Watanabe, Vivienne Westwood and Marithé and François Girbaud
Albert Kriemler, as ever, focused on great-looking real-world clothes for Akris, while Junya Watanabe had athletic notions, Vivienne Westwood showed her creative spirit and the Girbauds added a hippie element to their experimental mix.
Akris: Pretty, well-crafted clothes flattering to a wide range of ages and sizes — now there’s a thought. And how does it fly at retail? “So well you wouldn’t believe it,” according to Bergdorf Goodman’s Robert Burke. Spring should keep right on ringing the registers, because the Akris collection Albert Kriemler showed Wednesday was simply terrific.
This is a company that eschews the typical bells and whistles of the runway, yet dares to show during collection week in the world’s most glorious mecca du mode. But then, how else to provide a handle on Akris, nestled as it is so far from the madding fashion crowd in cozy, picturesque and dirndled (well, at least the waitresses are) St. Gallen, Switzerland? It seems that Kriemler leaves home often enough to show off the family wares, but not so often that he falls prey to the frenzy.
Calm suits him perfectly, thank you — not to mention the legions who buy his clothes at Bergdorf’s, Neiman Marcus and Saks Fifth Avenue as well as at several Akris boutiques worldwide, including a brand new shop on Madison Avenue. For spring, these stores will be filled with clothes that reflect the subtly younger direction Kriemler has taken recently. He went expectedly chic with smart pants and narrow skirts, but turned a bit playful with some girlish tiers and fresh, lively colors. The primary focus, however, was on low-key evening dresses — lean, politely sexy bustiers and halters secured with the skinniest strings, and sometimes wrapped and rewrapped around the neck for a bit of provocation.
Junya Watanabe: Who knew that Junya Watanabe’s muse had been hiding her assets for all these years, pumping iron in her secret lair? Well, she’s out now, honey. His slinky, endorphin-fueled spring collection was sent down the runway to a breathless grunting soundtrack — uhn-heh-heh-heh — most often heard at Gold’s Gym or in private quarters, while his look was inspired by slinky, stretchy workout clothes. A black sheer jacket topped a pair of snug black bike shorts, and a cropped black sport bra was shown with a skirt made from a tangle of exercise gear. Dresses, too, looked like layers peeled down in the locker room, with straps and armholes criss-crossed into an intricate web, gaping to reveal a patch of skin every now and again. All that Lycra-loving body consciousness, Watanabe’s nudie invitation and, you know, the panting sound effects, made for his sexiest collection in years. And Watanabe gave the look itself a real workout, doing more reps than the Governor of California.Still, for the girl who is finally ready to show off her hard-won figure, Watanabe’s look could have been a little more celebratory. Instead of taking a super-sporty approach with team colors flying, he stuck to a dreary palette of black-and-white and black-and-black. Frankly, it was Dullsville. Polkadotted dresses, deflated in the poitrine like bullet bras without the bullets, spiced things up a bit. Dotty jackets and flippy skirts made a case for fun. But for most Junya lovers, this collection lacked his singular sense of romance, melancholy though it may be. Recipe for next season: Fire up the confectionary. After sweating it for so long, Watanabe’s girl will have earned her cake and candy.
Vivienne Westwood: Fashion’s original punk princess may have a retrospective slated to open this April at London’s Victoria and Albert Museum, but don’t think that Vivienne Westwood is ready to rest on her laurels. Her rollicking effort for spring proved that her creative spirit is as strong as ever. With animals squawking on the soundtrack, she went savage with disheveled, puffy-sleeved dresses and barely there swimsuits, while trousers came with swashbuckling pirate pockets. Knits in bright orange and blue had a devoré style, while a red polkadot and abstract flower print proved Westwood has nothing against making a girl feel pretty, too. For evening, the designer was at her best. A jersey Grecian-style dress wrapped seductively around the body, while a taffeta gown in yellow, blue and green was a nod to Westwood’s eccentric sense of color.
Marithé and François Girbaud: The Girbauds have always been fascinated with the technical side of fashion, developing innovative fabrics and ergonomic or multifunctional silhouettes. This season, they continued that work, with jeans that followed the movement of the body or skirts that cinched at the hem. But this time, the design team added an easy hippie feel to the mix with ruffles on jeans and skirts and flowing chiffon dresses printed with a cool flower motif. Most of the fabrics had a worn-in vintage look, while jackets came with hook-and-eye closures or were deconstructed and turned inside out.
My character, Dinah Madani, is just the coolest, [most] badass woman imaginable," says @amberroserevah. The actress stars in @marvel's newest series on @netflix, @thepunisher. To prepare for her role, Revah sat down with Homeland agents to get a real sense of with Dinah's day-to-day life is really like. Read our full interview on WWD.com. #wwdeye (📷: @jilliansollazzo)
A scene from the 91st annual @macys Thanksgiving Day Parade. The parade, which boasts 50 million TV viewers and 3.5 million on-site spectators, is considered one of the largest and most watched parades in the world. (📷: Jason Szenes/EPA-REX)
The circus came to @bloomingdales 59th Street on Tuesday night and lit up Lexington Avenue with acrobatic dancers, death-defying knife throwing, sword swallowing and aerial acts with no net. The 45 minutes of theatrics built up to unveiling the holiday windows depicting @swarovski crystal-encrusted circus pieces and scenes from “The Greatest Showman” – songs from the soundtrack included. See the rest of the photos on WWD.com #wwdfashion (📷: Joshua Scott)
The psychedelic fashion that pervaded the ’60s is back with an exhibit at the @museumofcityny. “Mode New York: Fashion Takes a Trip” chronicles the changing styles from 1960 through 1973 and features designers such as @ysl, @oscardelarenta and more. The exhibition, which is on display through April 1, is organized into four periods: First Lady Fasion, Youthquake, New Bohemia and New Nonchalance. Pictured here is model Pat Bardonella during the Garvey Day Parade in 1968. (📷: @kwamebphoto) #wwdeye #wwdfashion
“People should be a lot more honest in expressing both the dark and light of themselves. We need to give each other the space to do that because it’s the only way we can grow and evolve,” says @noelwells of her new film “Mr. Roosevelt,” which is largely based on her own struggles. Unexpectedly leaving @nbcsnl in 2014 after just one season, Wells felt set back in her self-esteem and career trajectory. She quickly refocused her energy to more personal projects, which led to the completion of “Mr. Roosevelt.” Read the rest of WWD’s interview with the “Master of None” actress on WWD.com #wwdeye (📷: @jilliansollazzo)
@barbrastreisand is giving fans a chance to see her perform up close in a new concert series, which makes its debut on @Netflix today. From behind-the-scenes takes to her concert performance in Miami last December, the two-hour streaming special captures Streisand in her element. Pictured here is the singer/actress photographed for WWD in 1963. (📷: Palmieri Tony) #wwdeye #wwdarchive
@chanel and @pharrell dropped what’s being dubbed as the world’s most exclusive sneakers yesterday. The Adidas Originals NMD Hu, which Williams designed in collaboration with Chanel and @adidasoriginals, has a waiting list of over 120K people who pre-registered online at chanelatcolette.fr –– and only 500 pairs are on sale. The singer predicted the resale value of the shoes could reach $40K. Read the full interview on WWD.com. Link in bio. #wwdfashion (📷: Dominique Maître)
@imanshumpert is diving deeper into his creative endeavors and relaunching his clothing line, Post 90s, and is helping to raise money for the hurricane victims in St. Maarten with a jersey he’s designed with his brother. The Cleveland Cavaliers player talked to WWD about kneeling during the national anthem, working with fashion brands and how he wants to be more than an @nba player. Read the interview on WWD.com #wwdfashion (📷: George Chinese)