Call it the dichotomy of the spring runways: The neat and tailored meets the edgy and dark.
Malandrino: It's been quite a ride for Catherine Malandrino since she launched her designer collection in 2005. But a gorgeous stretch of road through the village of St. Paul de Vence in southern France proved an idyllic inspiration for spring. Highly sophisticated and oh-so-French, these are clothes for grown-up ladies who will appreciate, and be able to pull off, the drama of a pintucked and braided organza dress, or the embroidered grapes that adorned everything from blouse necklines to the wonderful stacked heels. While there were a few overwrought pieces, on a whole this collection was très chic.
Lacoste: That burst of energy Lacoste brought to its first runway show two years ago is back, and then some. Christophe Lemaire's spring collection was a virtual celebration: bursts of color, a terrific range of sportswear and beach looks and, most surprising, a lineup that was both girly and sexy. All this, without losing a bit of that classic sportif core. The girliness was delivered in bold polkadots, gingham checks and flirty pleats. As for the sex appeal, there were wide-legged, hip-hugging pants; skinny high-waisted shorts, and second-skin tanks and Ts, along with sizzling swimwear. For this traditional tennis house, it was a step forward into fashion — as in the terry cloth hobble-like skirt (this season's trend du jour) and the long white beach dress that was just fabulous.
Phi: Andreas Melbostad is always clear about his inspiration; this time around, he looked to The Clash. The result, not for girly girls, was an edgy twist on men's tailoring, toughened up with zippers and chains, adorning a silhouette that was boxy on top and abbreviated on the bottom. Sleeveless blazers, vests and delicate tie-dyed silk tanks, often worn all at once, were paired with miniskirts, shorts or skinny pants that showed off some very butch motorcycle boots. Despite the use of lightweight fabrics like crepe de chine and tropical wool, all that layered suiting might be a little heavy for spring.
Brian Reyes: Pretty and pulled together were the hallmarks of Brian Reyes' show, which had its moments of originality. For his loyalists, there were variations on his standard silhouette: a corset-like top with a pouffy bottom, here realized in camisoles and skirts in a muted palette. What was more interesting were the bold textures and colors he chose — the show-opening pastel printed dress and the vibrant fuchsia frock, for example. On the other hand, the thigh-grazing tunics, or swim dresses as Reyes called them, were a big Prada-esque question mark.Alexander Wang: Charlize Theron in "Monster" and Melanie Griffith in "Working Girl" might be the unlikeliest of fashion muses. But Alexander Wang's collection wasn't the eyesore that it could have been. Instead, he proposed a confidently cool dressing-down: ripped denim shorts paired with a roomy business blazer or breezy summer top, an oversize boyfriend shirt-cum-dress, simple pleated crepe jumpers. The big question, though, is will his customers shell out big bucks for clothes that resemble what's probably sitting in their closets?
G-Star Raw: Staying true to the hard-edged, seemingly "Mad Max"-inspired style that G-Star has cultivated since 1996, designer Pierre Morisset organized a slickly choreographed show on a moving runway, much to the delight of attendees (including Duran Duran's Simon Le Bon and Nick Rhodes). Though there was plenty of the brand's trademark rigid, indigo denim, other fabrics such as cotton knit and jersey were fashioned into short-sleeved dresses and drop-crotch pants, and contributed to a well-rounded collection.
Jenni Kayne: Focusing on shape and proportion, Jenni Kayne presented a clean lineup that blended a Thirties elegance with a Seventies ease. The floor-length chiffon column gowns in forest green and deep teal were a refreshing choice for spring, while an ikat-printed chiffon minidress rounded it all out.
Ohne Titel: Designers Alexa Adams and Flora Gill, in a noteworthy sophomore effort, weren't afraid to explore new shapes, and did so with aplomb. Jackets with molded, nipped-in waists, textured knits with rounded shoulders and silk skirts with ever-so-slight bustles were all inviting despite their unorthodox silhouettes. The season's inspiration, Africa, was manifested in crochet cardigans and tribal-patterned dresses, subtly mixed in with terrifically tailored looks. Adams and Gill still have a few wrinkles to iron out — the unnecessary raffia-and-surgical tubing accessories, for instance — but Ohne Titel definitely merits attention.
A grooming moment between @tanfrance and @antoni last night at the The LGBT Community Center Trailblazer Awards honoring Anna Wintour, Ricky Martin and more. See more photos at WWD.com #wwdeye (📷: @lexieblacklock)
“It was a very surreal feeling. It wasn’t like we were in the studio together coming up with it — it’s more like he discovered it and loved it. I didn’t let myself get my hopes up, but then it happened it was very exciting,” said singer-songwriter @nombe on discovering that @pharrell would be using his song, “Cant Catch Me” on his HBO documentary series “Outpost.” The German-born singer — named Noah MacBeth — talked to WWD about feminism, using art as a platform for political expression and personal style. Read more on WWD.com #wwdeye (📷: @jilliansollazzo)
This season, denim is going west – in influence. Brands like @fathersdaughterla (pictured here), @tommyhilfiger Jeans, @levis and more are opting for raw, top-stitching styles. (Styled by @thealexbadia; 📷: @ryanplett)
20-year-old British singer @jorjasmith_ made her debut at Coachella last weekend. We caught up with her and talked about her love for Amy Winehouse, working with Kendrick Lamar on the “Black Panther” album and her fashion philosophy. Read the interview on WWD.com #wwdeye (📷: @katiedaisyla)
Supermodel @helenachristensen teamed up with longtime friend and designer @camillastaerk on a joint @paredeyewear collaboration. The lineup features three styles and 11 offerings, all of which embody a vintage feel. Get all the details on how they celebrated the collab on WWD.com. #wwdaccessories #wwdeye (📷: @slovekinpics)
“It’s a hard industry to keep motivated, as well, so finding different subjects and people is what makes it worth it – when you’re like, oh, I’ve met great people, I feel like I’ve done something good, and I feel proud of having done this,” said French actress Stacy Martin on being grateful for the variety of roles she’s take on. Read @ktauer’s full interview with Martin on her her latest film “Godard Mon Amour.” #wwdeye (📷: @danieldorsa)