Call it the dichotomy of the spring runways: The neat and tailored meets the edgy and dark.
Malandrino: It's been quite a ride for Catherine Malandrino since she launched her designer collection in 2005. But a gorgeous stretch of road through the village of St. Paul de Vence in southern France proved an idyllic inspiration for spring. Highly sophisticated and oh-so-French, these are clothes for grown-up ladies who will appreciate, and be able to pull off, the drama of a pintucked and braided organza dress, or the embroidered grapes that adorned everything from blouse necklines to the wonderful stacked heels. While there were a few overwrought pieces, on a whole this collection was très chic.
Lacoste: That burst of energy Lacoste brought to its first runway show two years ago is back, and then some. Christophe Lemaire's spring collection was a virtual celebration: bursts of color, a terrific range of sportswear and beach looks and, most surprising, a lineup that was both girly and sexy. All this, without losing a bit of that classic sportif core. The girliness was delivered in bold polkadots, gingham checks and flirty pleats. As for the sex appeal, there were wide-legged, hip-hugging pants; skinny high-waisted shorts, and second-skin tanks and Ts, along with sizzling swimwear. For this traditional tennis house, it was a step forward into fashion — as in the terry cloth hobble-like skirt (this season's trend du jour) and the long white beach dress that was just fabulous.
Phi: Andreas Melbostad is always clear about his inspiration; this time around, he looked to The Clash. The result, not for girly girls, was an edgy twist on men's tailoring, toughened up with zippers and chains, adorning a silhouette that was boxy on top and abbreviated on the bottom. Sleeveless blazers, vests and delicate tie-dyed silk tanks, often worn all at once, were paired with miniskirts, shorts or skinny pants that showed off some very butch motorcycle boots. Despite the use of lightweight fabrics like crepe de chine and tropical wool, all that layered suiting might be a little heavy for spring.
Brian Reyes: Pretty and pulled together were the hallmarks of Brian Reyes' show, which had its moments of originality. For his loyalists, there were variations on his standard silhouette: a corset-like top with a pouffy bottom, here realized in camisoles and skirts in a muted palette. What was more interesting were the bold textures and colors he chose — the show-opening pastel printed dress and the vibrant fuchsia frock, for example. On the other hand, the thigh-grazing tunics, or swim dresses as Reyes called them, were a big Prada-esque question mark.Alexander Wang: Charlize Theron in "Monster" and Melanie Griffith in "Working Girl" might be the unlikeliest of fashion muses. But Alexander Wang's collection wasn't the eyesore that it could have been. Instead, he proposed a confidently cool dressing-down: ripped denim shorts paired with a roomy business blazer or breezy summer top, an oversize boyfriend shirt-cum-dress, simple pleated crepe jumpers. The big question, though, is will his customers shell out big bucks for clothes that resemble what's probably sitting in their closets?
G-Star Raw: Staying true to the hard-edged, seemingly "Mad Max"-inspired style that G-Star has cultivated since 1996, designer Pierre Morisset organized a slickly choreographed show on a moving runway, much to the delight of attendees (including Duran Duran's Simon Le Bon and Nick Rhodes). Though there was plenty of the brand's trademark rigid, indigo denim, other fabrics such as cotton knit and jersey were fashioned into short-sleeved dresses and drop-crotch pants, and contributed to a well-rounded collection.
Jenni Kayne: Focusing on shape and proportion, Jenni Kayne presented a clean lineup that blended a Thirties elegance with a Seventies ease. The floor-length chiffon column gowns in forest green and deep teal were a refreshing choice for spring, while an ikat-printed chiffon minidress rounded it all out.
Ohne Titel: Designers Alexa Adams and Flora Gill, in a noteworthy sophomore effort, weren't afraid to explore new shapes, and did so with aplomb. Jackets with molded, nipped-in waists, textured knits with rounded shoulders and silk skirts with ever-so-slight bustles were all inviting despite their unorthodox silhouettes. The season's inspiration, Africa, was manifested in crochet cardigans and tribal-patterned dresses, subtly mixed in with terrifically tailored looks. Adams and Gill still have a few wrinkles to iron out — the unnecessary raffia-and-surgical tubing accessories, for instance — but Ohne Titel definitely merits attention.
My character, Dinah Madani, is just the coolest, [most] badass woman imaginable," says @amberroserevah. The actress stars in @marvel's newest series on @netflix, @thepunisher. To prepare for her role, Revah sat down with Homeland agents to get a real sense of with Dinah's day-to-day life is really like. Read our full interview on WWD.com. #wwdeye (📷: @jilliansollazzo)
A scene from the 91st annual @macys Thanksgiving Day Parade. The parade, which boasts 50 million TV viewers and 3.5 million on-site spectators, is considered one of the largest and most watched parades in the world. (📷: Jason Szenes/EPA-REX)
The circus came to @bloomingdales 59th Street on Tuesday night and lit up Lexington Avenue with acrobatic dancers, death-defying knife throwing, sword swallowing and aerial acts with no net. The 45 minutes of theatrics built up to unveiling the holiday windows depicting @swarovski crystal-encrusted circus pieces and scenes from “The Greatest Showman” – songs from the soundtrack included. See the rest of the photos on WWD.com #wwdfashion (📷: Joshua Scott)
The psychedelic fashion that pervaded the ’60s is back with an exhibit at the @museumofcityny. “Mode New York: Fashion Takes a Trip” chronicles the changing styles from 1960 through 1973 and features designers such as @ysl, @oscardelarenta and more. The exhibition, which is on display through April 1, is organized into four periods: First Lady Fasion, Youthquake, New Bohemia and New Nonchalance. Pictured here is model Pat Bardonella during the Garvey Day Parade in 1968. (📷: @kwamebphoto) #wwdeye #wwdfashion
“People should be a lot more honest in expressing both the dark and light of themselves. We need to give each other the space to do that because it’s the only way we can grow and evolve,” says @noelwells of her new film “Mr. Roosevelt,” which is largely based on her own struggles. Unexpectedly leaving @nbcsnl in 2014 after just one season, Wells felt set back in her self-esteem and career trajectory. She quickly refocused her energy to more personal projects, which led to the completion of “Mr. Roosevelt.” Read the rest of WWD’s interview with the “Master of None” actress on WWD.com #wwdeye (📷: @jilliansollazzo)
@barbrastreisand is giving fans a chance to see her perform up close in a new concert series, which makes its debut on @Netflix today. From behind-the-scenes takes to her concert performance in Miami last December, the two-hour streaming special captures Streisand in her element. Pictured here is the singer/actress photographed for WWD in 1963. (📷: Palmieri Tony) #wwdeye #wwdarchive
@chanel and @pharrell dropped what’s being dubbed as the world’s most exclusive sneakers yesterday. The Adidas Originals NMD Hu, which Williams designed in collaboration with Chanel and @adidasoriginals, has a waiting list of over 120K people who pre-registered online at chanelatcolette.fr –– and only 500 pairs are on sale. The singer predicted the resale value of the shoes could reach $40K. Read the full interview on WWD.com. Link in bio. #wwdfashion (📷: Dominique Maître)
@imanshumpert is diving deeper into his creative endeavors and relaunching his clothing line, Post 90s, and is helping to raise money for the hurricane victims in St. Maarten with a jersey he’s designed with his brother. The Cleveland Cavaliers player talked to WWD about kneeling during the national anthem, working with fashion brands and how he wants to be more than an @nba player. Read the interview on WWD.com #wwdfashion (📷: George Chinese)