Call it the dichotomy of the spring runways: The neat and tailored meets the edgy and dark.
Malandrino: It's been quite a ride for Catherine Malandrino since she launched her designer collection in 2005. But a gorgeous stretch of road through the village of St. Paul de Vence in southern France proved an idyllic inspiration for spring. Highly sophisticated and oh-so-French, these are clothes for grown-up ladies who will appreciate, and be able to pull off, the drama of a pintucked and braided organza dress, or the embroidered grapes that adorned everything from blouse necklines to the wonderful stacked heels. While there were a few overwrought pieces, on a whole this collection was très chic.
Lacoste: That burst of energy Lacoste brought to its first runway show two years ago is back, and then some. Christophe Lemaire's spring collection was a virtual celebration: bursts of color, a terrific range of sportswear and beach looks and, most surprising, a lineup that was both girly and sexy. All this, without losing a bit of that classic sportif core. The girliness was delivered in bold polkadots, gingham checks and flirty pleats. As for the sex appeal, there were wide-legged, hip-hugging pants; skinny high-waisted shorts, and second-skin tanks and Ts, along with sizzling swimwear. For this traditional tennis house, it was a step forward into fashion — as in the terry cloth hobble-like skirt (this season's trend du jour) and the long white beach dress that was just fabulous.
Phi: Andreas Melbostad is always clear about his inspiration; this time around, he looked to The Clash. The result, not for girly girls, was an edgy twist on men's tailoring, toughened up with zippers and chains, adorning a silhouette that was boxy on top and abbreviated on the bottom. Sleeveless blazers, vests and delicate tie-dyed silk tanks, often worn all at once, were paired with miniskirts, shorts or skinny pants that showed off some very butch motorcycle boots. Despite the use of lightweight fabrics like crepe de chine and tropical wool, all that layered suiting might be a little heavy for spring.
Brian Reyes: Pretty and pulled together were the hallmarks of Brian Reyes' show, which had its moments of originality. For his loyalists, there were variations on his standard silhouette: a corset-like top with a pouffy bottom, here realized in camisoles and skirts in a muted palette. What was more interesting were the bold textures and colors he chose — the show-opening pastel printed dress and the vibrant fuchsia frock, for example. On the other hand, the thigh-grazing tunics, or swim dresses as Reyes called them, were a big Prada-esque question mark.Alexander Wang: Charlize Theron in "Monster" and Melanie Griffith in "Working Girl" might be the unlikeliest of fashion muses. But Alexander Wang's collection wasn't the eyesore that it could have been. Instead, he proposed a confidently cool dressing-down: ripped denim shorts paired with a roomy business blazer or breezy summer top, an oversize boyfriend shirt-cum-dress, simple pleated crepe jumpers. The big question, though, is will his customers shell out big bucks for clothes that resemble what's probably sitting in their closets?
G-Star Raw: Staying true to the hard-edged, seemingly "Mad Max"-inspired style that G-Star has cultivated since 1996, designer Pierre Morisset organized a slickly choreographed show on a moving runway, much to the delight of attendees (including Duran Duran's Simon Le Bon and Nick Rhodes). Though there was plenty of the brand's trademark rigid, indigo denim, other fabrics such as cotton knit and jersey were fashioned into short-sleeved dresses and drop-crotch pants, and contributed to a well-rounded collection.
Jenni Kayne: Focusing on shape and proportion, Jenni Kayne presented a clean lineup that blended a Thirties elegance with a Seventies ease. The floor-length chiffon column gowns in forest green and deep teal were a refreshing choice for spring, while an ikat-printed chiffon minidress rounded it all out.
Ohne Titel: Designers Alexa Adams and Flora Gill, in a noteworthy sophomore effort, weren't afraid to explore new shapes, and did so with aplomb. Jackets with molded, nipped-in waists, textured knits with rounded shoulders and silk skirts with ever-so-slight bustles were all inviting despite their unorthodox silhouettes. The season's inspiration, Africa, was manifested in crochet cardigans and tribal-patterned dresses, subtly mixed in with terrifically tailored looks. Adams and Gill still have a few wrinkles to iron out — the unnecessary raffia-and-surgical tubing accessories, for instance — but Ohne Titel definitely merits attention.
EXCLUSIVE: @tomford is opening its first-ever beauty store. The boutique, which opens November 20 in London’s Covent Gardens, was designed with the over-the-top glam Ford is known for. Read the full story on WWD.com, link in bio. #wwdbeauty #wwdnews (📷: Simon Wagner) #TomFordBeauty
New York-based DJ @harleyvnewton threw a party to celebrate the holiday collection of her dress and pajama line @hvn at the Ladurée Beverly Hills. It Girls @katebosworth, @rashidajones and more joined in on the fun, which included cocktails, croque monsieur sandwiches and a photo booth. #wwdfashion (📷: Owen Kolasinski/BFA.com)
For the holidays, @Burberry partnered with 20-year-old artist @blondeymccoy on a series of three outdoor murals in downtown Manhattan. The murals are McCoy’s interpretation of a Christmas eve party, the idea of charity and the spirit of family. His third mural, pictured here, is the most personal. The image depicts McCoy’s grandparents and father in London’s Trafalgar Square in the Seventies. “My work often features lots of sentimental objects.” #wwdeye
For spring 2018, designers applied bold colors and cartoonish motifs on everything from sneakers and belts to key chains. See all the top men’s accessories trends on WWD.com. #wwdtrends (📷: George Chinsee; Prop Styling by @rnasti; Market Editor: @luiscampuzano)
The @dior-sponsored @guggenheim international gala pre-party has a history of drawing cool-girl musical acts to serenade the crowd –– and last night was no exception. @haimtheband performed songs both new and old, and lured a star-studded audience with the likes of Rebecca Hall, Kate Mara, Mamoudou Athie and more. #wwdeye (📷: @lexieblacklock)
In a partnership between the @metopera and the @englishnationalopera, “Marnie” was born. The opera, with costumes sponsored by @mrporterlive, is an adaptation of the 1961 thriller by Winston Graham. Arianne Phillips, who created the costumes, is no rookie: She’s styled Madonna for her tours and created costumes for a myriad of films in the past. Read WWD’s interview with Phillips, where she talks about her inspiration for the opera’s costumes on WWD.com #wwdfashion
@barneysnyc took a different approach to their holiday windows this year. Instead of Christmas decor, Barneys tapped @thehaasbrothers to tell a story of positivity, gratitude and inclusivity via heartwarming silliness and humor. “It’s about kids and it’s about coming together and being family and loving each other,” said Simon Haas. #wwdfashion (📷: @joshuascottphoto)
Beauty influencer @kandeejohnson makes her foray into hair care with a collaboration with @ogx_beauty — making it the first time that OGX has teamed up for a product creation. The collab includes shampoos and conditioners in three scents. At 39 and a mom, Johnson is a different profile than the emerging social media stars, but is considered one of the pioneers of the digital beauty influencer world. Read WWD’s interview with her on wwd.com, including the strangest beauty product she’s ever tried #wwdbeauty