Junya Watanabe: While Junya Watanabe didn’t turn on the fake-rain spigots, as in that fabled show of yore, on Saturday morning he showered his audience with fabulous clothes, cleverly remixing a few of his favorite themes:...
Junya Watanabe: While Junya Watanabe didn’t turn on the fake-rain spigots, as in that fabled show of yore, on Saturday morning he showered his audience with fabulous clothes, cleverly remixing a few of his favorite themes: sportiness, ladylike tweeds — and high-tech waterproofing. Though you could hardly have guessed it, nearly every piece in the collection was rain-repellent, from the first tartan schoolgirl dress to the last of his extravagantly beplumed anoraks, with Gortex delivering the added value all along the way.
But weather-related gimmicks aside, Watanabe’s charming new look also made avant-garde hearts go pitter-pat. Heavy woolen tweeds, checks and plaids were worked up into jackets with grand rippling collars, while sportif drawstrings gathered sleeves and pulled, bunched and flounced skirts just so. A sharp tug of those toggled cords turned a voluminous black trenchcoat into a cool cocoon of a dress, while a double-breasted white shirt scrunched down the front with newfound ruffles.
As things rolled on, a hint of Victoriana infused Watanabe’s look with a certain moodiness, though it never let things devolve beyond the neat and gentle. But even when in a more subdued somber mood, he couldn’t resist a final decadent twist, sending out an anorak with its hood traced in iridescent feathers. Now that’s the ultimate in frivolous utility.
Akris: With two good seasons at his back, Albert Kriemler shows little sign of losing momentum. As he did for his spring show, the designer cited artistic inspirations for fall. This time, it was Viennese artists Dagobert Peche and Gustav Klimt. But Kriemler uses a light hand with his references, which manifested themselves subtly in the printed silk lining of a wool coat and in patches of beading on coats and knits. The real heart of this collection was quietly luxurious daywear.
Kriemler worked in the sort of rich, woodsy fall colors that make you nostalgic for that time of year. He favored a slouchy form of chic with a sumptuous cashmere trench, dolman-sleeved knits and man-tailored trousers. Alternatively, he paired slim knits and neatly tailored jackets with swingy skirts — though it must be said that such full skirts are flattering to few, especially the more sedate Akris client. But on the whole, these are clothes that are perfectly suited for the well-heeled shopper who doesn’t go for gimmicks or trends.
Hermès is launching a Laundromat pop-up shop in NYC - dubbed Hermèsmatic - where customers can bring their old scarves to be dip-dyed by an expert. Get all the details on WWD.com. #wwdnews (📷: @donstahl)