Pretty, Witty and Flirty – Zang Toi, Ellen Tracy, Christopher Deane, Richard Chai and Doo.Ri
Zang Toi showed plenty of his curvy little suits, Ellen Tracy's looks showcased high-interest fabrics and intriguing details, Christopher Deane mixed quirkiness and charm, Richard Chai riffed on Space-Age style and the Doo.Ri collection featured...
Zang Toi showed plenty of his curvy little suits, Ellen Tracy’s looks showcased high-interest fabrics and intriguing details, Christopher Deane mixed quirkiness and charm, Richard Chai riffed on Space-Age style and the Doo.Ri collection featured stunning variations on Grecian draping.
Zang Toi: Zang Toi’s signature looks were in evidence Saturday night with plenty of his sexy little suits; richly embroidered cashmere sweaters; classic tailored jackets, and pants. But Toi’s excesses robbed the collection of its strongest possibilities. Consider miniskirts with mink edging on slits, cut to the sky; hair teased to the same heights; mink seaming on A-line taffeta skirts. There was, in fact, fur-trimming on almost everything as well as beading everywhere, including a beaded peacock feathered minidress. Nothing here against fur or beading, one just longed for some relief.
Ellen Tracy: “We were so happy with the collection that we decided that it should be seen up close,” explained Ellen Tracy president Glenn McMahon. So the firm decided to shun the runway in favor of appointments, better to show off those subtle details. Just as for spring, the design team kept silhouettes clean and sharp for fall, putting the focus on high-interest fabrics. A bronze suit in basket-weave silk, for example, looked plenty sophisticated, while cashmere was either knit to resemble tweed into the cosiest of slipdresses or delicately crocheted into lacy tops. Suits cut from toile, lush floral jacquard or textured paisley were surprisingly chic and those shot with midnight blue Lurex gleamed with an antique patina. For those with a need for tweed, a fresh salt-and-pepper jacket, seamed and finished in organza, was the perfect fix. While McMahon explained that Lurex was used for the sake of “illuminating” rather than to simply be “shiny,” it was quite clear that the collection as a whole did indeed shine.
Christopher Deane: Designers Christopher Crawford and Angela Deane drew upon their travels in France as inspiration for their fall collection, That was fortuitous, since a bit of gamine bon chic is exactly what was needed after a couple of so-so seasons in which the daywear lacked the wow factor. This promising young duo has always delivered flirty party frocks that maintain a certain quirkiness. Fall’s versions were charmers, such as a nude chiffon Empire number with gold pinstripes and an evergreen cummerbund. But this season the designers also went that extra mile for day, infusing their designs with more than a soupçon of French flavor. Burgundy and green mini-houndstooth wool was cut into a hyper-chic sleek trench and bracelet-sleeved jacket, while cornflower and ivory chiffon blouses were made trés jolie with black charmeuse bows. In another sign that these designers have matured, their spring collection will soon hit the floor at Bergdorf Goodman.Richard Chai: Futuristic romance — and wearable, too. In the collection he showed for fall, Ecco Domani winner Richard Chai built on the notion of Space-Age elegance he started for spring. While that combo could easily inhabit the Planet of Tricks, Chai worked it with a restraint equal to his ambitions, and the results were mostly delightful. Many of his intricately tailored skirts and jackets looked subtly Mod defined by graphic insets, satin quilting or piping, while exaggerated proportions — a sharp shoulder or flaring coat — orbited the chic side of Jetson style. Although a few looks, particularly the boiled wool military jackets and skirts, succumbed to weighty awkwardness, Chai is quietly forging a place among the most promising young talents in New York.
Doo.Ri: One might think that the languid flow of Grès-inspired drapery and the artificial environs of a big metropolis have nothing in common. But this season Doori Chung has delightfully shown that they do.
Before her presentation, Chung said that she was inspired by “the movement and stillness of the city — steely grids and illuminated bridges.” She did send out garments with an architectural bent: sculptural high-collared coats and big-buttoned boleros steeped in Parisian chic. But for the most part, she translated her metropolitan theme with subtlety in the citified palette of grays, blacks and icy steel blues and such details as the sparkling skyline at the hem of a sleeve. The collection was dominated by beautifully fluid separates, cocktail dresses and evening columns, such as the heather jersey top, worn with a blue top and navy pleated skirt, the pale blue, off-the-shoulder dress detailed with Swarovski crystals and a midnight blue gown with beaded fringe at the back.
While Chung may be a relatively new player on the fashion field, screen goddesses should take note: Her glamorous evening ensembles with just enough subtle glitz deserve to make the rounds come red-carpet season.
In his new book “Hollywood Royale,” Andy Warhol’s Protégé Matthew Rolston celebrates the Eighties revival of Hollywood glamour. Featuring more than 100 portraits taken by Rolston from 1977 to 1993, the book contains photos of icons like Michael Jackson, Cyndi Lauper, and @drewbarrymore, pictured here in 1991. “Hollywood Royale,” out today, will be accompanied by an exhibition opening at Los Angeles’ Fahey/Klein Gallery on March 1. #wwdeye
"Nowadays when life is not so happy with everything going on in the world, I think people come to me for a little bit of whimsy and color and fun." - Designer Rebecca De Ravenel on her cult-favorite jewelry line. (📸 : @vsteves) #wwd40
“Everyone is talking about how the retail industry is struggling, but I think it’s an incredible time because brands who are doing something different and innovative are setting themselves up for the future,” said @adamgoldston, who founded the luxury athletic brand @apl with his brother @ryangoldsten. The Goldston’s are part of WWD’s 40 under 40: a group of industry notables. See the rest of the list on WWD.com. (📷: @vsteves) #wwd40
@eyeswoon blogger Athena Calderone debuted her first-ever cookbook, “Cook Beautiful,” which is heavily centered on the presentation and visual expression of food. Pictured here are her miso glazed carrots from the book. Get the recipe on WWD.com. (📷: @johnny_miller_) #wwdeye
“It’s passion that helps get anybody to a certain point and it’s what’s propelled me,” said Kith founder @ronniefieg, one of WWD’s 40 under 40: a group of industry notables who are changing the face of retail, fashion and beauty. Fieg, who opened a Manhattan flagship on October 7, began his career at age 13 as a stock boy and salesman for footwear chain David Z. “I think staying true to [my] beliefs, hard work and passion have gotten me to where [Kith] is today.” See the rest of the 40 at WWD.com. (📷: @vsteves) #wwd40
25-year-old @samweaving is about to break out this fall, starring in Netflix’s horror film “The Babysitter,” fittingly out today on Friday the 13th. That’s not the only place you’ll be seeing her, though — Weaving’s got a role Showtime’s “SMILF” and another alongside Frances McDormand and Woody Harrelson in “Three Billboards Outside Ebbing, Missouri.” Though she’s got a full plate at the moment, there’s one role she’s got her eye on: Marilyn Monroe. “I’m a little too young at the moment, but it’s on my bucket list,” the actress told WWD (📷: @dandoperalski) #wwdeye
BFF's Poppy Jamie and Suki Waterhouse celebrated the launch of their bag line Pop x Suki at Nordstrom last night. "The line is really about our friendship, and how we are so different but complement each other," said Waterhouse. 👯 (📷: Katie Jones) #wwdeye
After designing the new @louisvuitton and @bulgariofficial flagships and a @chanelofficial boutique opening in Japan, @petermarinoarchitect has another project on his plate: The Lobster Club. Located in the Seagram Building, it’s the famed architect’s first restaurant project in New York, serving up modern Japanese brasserie-style cuisine. Bronze hues, bespoke material detailing, blush and chartreuse tones and a heavy emphasis on Picasso can be seen throughout. Mark your calendars for Nov. 1 for the much-anticipated opening. (📷: @clint_spaulding) #wwdeye
Did you know: @carlychaikin of "Mr. Robot" has been painting for about a decade? The actress, who plays Darlene on the show, is a self-taught artist who lists Salvador Dalí and Chuck Close as some of her idols. Chaikin told WWD that painting is a form of meditation for her — A much-needed one given the intensity of "Mr. Robot." See a piece Chaikin is working on at WWD.com (📷: @jilliansollazzo) #wwdeye