What's the forecast for the upcoming season? Plenty of sun-kissed pieces that look extra sweet thanks to charming details and tailored accents.
United Bamboo: While some might dismiss the phrase "great detail" as a fashion week catchphrase, that's exactly what United Bamboo's Miho Aoki and Thuy Pham offered in their spring collection. Take, for example, their lightweight suits. The double-breasted blazer had tiered layers and was paired with pleated shorts; a shirt sporting both zippers and buttons was shown with sweet, scallop-trimmed denim Bermudas. Such pieces have sustained United Bamboo's fan base over the years, and if the packed show was any indication, the designers are gearing up for a broader audience. Altogether, the tailored ease and pretty feminism of their lineup equaled downright cool.
Rachel Comey: If Audrey Hepburn were to go on her Roman holiday today, she might pack her suitcase full of pieces from Rachel Comey's delightful spring collection. Charming garden prints, sun-bleached linens and crisp cottons might easily have turned too prim, but Comey worked the chic side of the jeune fille range in lace-back jumpers, shirtdresses and little tops paired with cigarette pants. This collection showed real personality, indicating that Comey is growing more confident in her sensibility with every season.
Zaldy: After years of costuming rock stars and showing to a crowd of mainly friends, this was supposed to be Zaldy's big arrival to the accessible fashion scene. To mark the occasion, Gwen Stefani and Andrea Lieberman, his co-conspirators in the pop star's L.A.M.B. line, as well as longtime friend and current Marc Jacobs poster boy Rufus Wainwright, sat in the front row. And next to them were Barneys New York's Julie Gilhart and Henri Bendel's Scott Tepper — the first major retail presence at any Zaldy show.
Unfortunately, Zaldy still seemed focused mainly on making his musician friends happy with arty dramatics. The flame-red hooded caftan and black bra with a gargantuan bow just won't work anywhere but on stage. There were, though, some pretty moments to tempt potential shoppers: draped jersey dresses, especially in a lovely pink print, and two tank-and-slouchy skirt combos, one nude, the other white.Imitation: How would you know you were at an Imitation show if it weren't for the hipster-filled circus at the door? It simply wouldn't be the same. So, while the ensuing mayhem may elicit a resigned eye roll, it's all par for the course. Once guests got past the metal detectors in New York City Surrogate's Court, where Tara Subkoff was showing, the grand marble staircase and gallery provided a dramatic setting for the designer to introduce her new jeans collection, created with denim company Blue Concept. But Subkoff did more than merely get you acquainted. The dark denim avalanche was like a Chinese restaurant menu, offering endless variations of jackets, tops, pants and dresses. But you left the metaphorical table feeling more than satisfied.
Smaller series followed: sweet, white cotton dresses, men's jeans and T-shirts and a second wave of denim, this time in a bleached pale blue. It was all plenty stylish, wearable and, most importantly, capable of being mass-produced and sold. What there wasn't was a single stitch of reworked vintage, the stuff that falls under the Imitation of Christ label. In fact, Subkoff will even be selling her denim at the Coterie trade show — an event that is about as far as you can get from the Venice Biennale or Art Basel. Is the designer turning a corner? We shall see.
Rosa Cha: How much creativity can you wheedle into a teeny swimsuit, or 60 of them, for that matter? Just ask Amir Slama of Rosa Cha, who was quick to provide the answer. In Slama's exotic world — complete with a pumping bossa nova soundtrack, giant crystal chandelier and uberbronzed babes — it seemed perfectly natural that bandeaus were trimmed with crystal bullets and crochet ruffles, while briefs were decorated with metal fringe or origami folds. On top of that, the designer sent out his second capsule collection for Speedo, all jazzed up with intricate appliqués and exotic prints.
Patrik Rzepski: In a repeat of last season, Patrik Rzepski set his show in an intimate theater, on a bare stage lit by floodlights. But this time he added a towering ladder front and center, under which the models walked. Thankfully, his clothes weren't quite so risky. Inspired by Samantha Eggar in her roles as a kidnapped British scream queen, he turned out beautiful, loose and languid jersey tops and dresses in a black-and-white palette. While some of his ruffled and ruched pieces were fussy, the flat-front pants and vests and the somber, full-skirted frocks rounded out the collection's sophisticated ease.
“Azzedine has been one of the biggest influences in my life. He has always been such a strong, loving, fatherly figure to me. I call him Papa. His designs are indescribably unique, they are pieces of art. He knew how to make the female form look its loveliest. I have so many memories of him; my favorite might be during my first show with him in Paris. He liked me and he wanted to help me get more work. He called all his friends at Kenzo and Comme des Garcons, and asked them to book me. They said, ‘But she can’t walk!’ And he said, ‘but she has such a great ass!' His friendship and support has been the great privilege of my career. I can't imagine life without him. Repose en paix mon Papa.” - @stephanieseymour tells @wwd. #wwdfashion (📷: @steveeichner) #alaia #azzedinealaia
Azzedine Alaïa, flanked by two of his closest friends, models Stephanie Seymour and Naomi Campbell.
He designed Seymour’s dress for her 1995 wedding to Peter Brant, and treated Campbell (who famously called him Papa), like a daughter. For more on the legendary designer, tap the link in bio. #wwdfashion #alaia #azzedinealaia
Azzedine Alaïa's “I-did-it-my-way” ethos stood out starkly at a time when brands are experimenting with consumer-facing fashion shows, coed formats and trans-seasonal collections – anything to perk up lackluster sales of ready-to-wear in an age of Insta-everything. “It’s not creation anymore. This becomes a purely industrial approach,” the late designer told WWD in an interview last year. “But anyway, the rhythm of collections is so stupid. It’s unsustainable. There are too many collections.” Read more about the iconic designer’s life and work on wwd.com, link in bio. #wwdfashion #azzedinealaia (📷: @WWD Archive, 1986) #alaia
Sneaker reselling app @goat’s latest exhibit, "The Greatest: New York," tells the story of New York's sneaker culture. To celebrate the exhibit, an intimate crowd gathered on Thursday night at the pop-up gallery space, located at Platform in Culver City, to hear guest speaker and illustrator @esymai talk about her own rise in streetwear and women in the business. "For me I'm just someone who is creative. I like to create things," said Chang. #wwdfashion
Azzedine Alaïa, one of the most iconic couturiers of the modern era whose body-con designs defined Eighties fashion, has died in Paris. The diminutive Tunisian-born designer, known for his structured knitted dresses with fitted waists and impeccably cut, figure-hugging second skin silhouettes was deeply admired by his peers, and counted supermodel Naomi Campbell - his adoptive daughter - among his inner circle, one of a gang of glamazons including Farida Khelfa, Carla Bruni and Stephanie Seymour who became ambassadors of his style. (📷: Alexandre Guirkinger) #wwdblast