By  on May 29, 2007

GRANAIOLO, Italy — More than 40 years after launching its inaugural scent, called Vivara, Pucci has unveiled a new version of the fragrance, which will be introduced this fall in conjunction with LVMH Perfumes and Cosmetics.

Vivara is a reinvention of the first fragrance launched by Emilio Pucci in 1966, which has been off the market for about 20 years. The new scent bears the original fragrance's name, which the Florence-based designer took from a vividly colored, wavy print he designed in the same year. The vintage print is featured in the glass cap of Vivara's new flacon.

As part of its 60th anniversary celebrations last weekend, Pucci executives showed Vivara to the press in Florence's historical Palazzo Medici Riccardi on May 19. Vivara was also feted the following day during a lunch at the Pucci family Tuscan retreat Villa di Granaiolo.

"The fragrance is an amazing re-edit of the original Vivara," said Laudomia Pucci, daughter of Emilio Pucci and vice president and image director for the fashion house. "It has a powerful attitude and personality, feminine sensitivity and strong cachet with its packaging."

Creating a scent that had a predecessor was a difficult process, said François Demachy, senior vice president Olfactory Development for Perfumes, LVMH Perfumes and Cosmetics. "The brand is so inspiring you enter very quickly in what you want to do and sometimes that process can be dangerous," said Demachy.

After viewing Pucci's archives and handling some of the fashion house's printed silk jersey dresses, Demachy said he was well on his way to constructing the fragrance's olfactory pyramid.

"To translate all that Pucci spirit — the colors, the humor, the joy and the summertime — was exciting, the notes rapidly appeared," said Demachy, adding the new and old Vivara fragrances belong to the chypre family and share the same green note galbanum.

But the new Vivara is a more modern chypre, said Demachy — its top notes include galbanum, Italian bergamot and an amaretto accord, combined with middle notes of jasmine, orange flower and narcissus flower, rounded out with base notes of Florentine iris, vetiver and Indonesian patchouli.

Vivara is set to be launched in six countries in its first year: Italy, the U.S., the U.K., Germany, Russia and France. In the U.S., Vivara will hit counters in September at Saks Fifth Avenue, Neiman Marcus, Bergdorf Goodman, Barneys New York and six Pucci boutiques for a total distribution network of 94 doors.The scent's initial global distribution network is to include 800 stores. Laurent Houel, chief executive officer of the New Fragrances division of LVMH Moët Hennessy Louis Vuitton, said the firm was taking a wait-and-see approach to the launch. "We want to take the time to build it so success earned in those countries will garner the interest of other markets — so it is really liked and desired to be distributed," said Houel. He added the company would consider expanding the initial first-year distribution plan to include Japan and the Middle East.

No advertising campaign will back Vivara's launch. Houel said the fragrance would launch as a niche, selective scent. Houel declined to discuss sales projections for Vivara, but industry sources estimate the scent will do upward of $15 million in its first year at retail.

Created by Danish designer Helle Damkjaer, Vivara's oval-shaped bottle features a heavy pebble-shaped cap that features the wavy purple, yellow and blue Vivara print suspended inside. When the cap is removed, the bottle reveals a silver collar embossed with the name of the scent.

The Vivara collection will consist of eaux de parfum in two sizes, a 50-ml. for $85 and an 80-ml. for $110. There will also be a body cream and a body mousse, each 200 ml. for $80. Prices are for the U.S.

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