PARIS — Sonia Rykiel, France’s queen of knitwear, is spinning a new yarn.
Two flagship boutiques — on London’s Brook Street and in Miami’s Coral Gables — are slated to open this fall. The first Sonia boutique, dedicated to the diffusion label Sonia, bowed here in August on the Rue des Saint Peres. And the 35-year-old house just christened a saucy concept shop, Rykiel Woman, at 4 Rue de Grenelle.
Overseen by Nathalie Rykiel, creative director and Sonia’s daughter, the Rykiel Woman store introduces a new luxury label and juxtaposes it with unexpected accessories: sex toys.
"Our heritage lies in being provocative, that’s why we have [sex toys]," said Nathalie Rykiel. "It’s not meant to be rude. Sex is in the air."
And so are signs of a Rykiel revival. French Elle and Jalouse put the brand on their September covers. In the current Gap campaign, Marianne Faithfull can be seen clutching a Rykiel bag. And sales at the privately owned firm grew 8 percent last year to about $176 million.
"My mother used to be perceived as very risqué," said Nathalie Rykiel. "The style now appeals to a younger generation, and fashion seems to be going in our [direction]."
Sales in the U.S. have ebbed over the last two years, as several retail accounts were discontinued. But house president Simon Burstein, who is also Nathalie’s husband, said the Miami store and distribution of the Sonia line should stem the decline and boost the image.
For her part, Nathaliesaid she’s angling to recapture the insouciance and vibrancy of her mother’s early years by reaching out to a younger audience.
Rykiel Woman is a first step in that direction. The store carries cashmere sweaters, velour jogging suits, lingerie and fur coats that are all exclusive to the location.
"It’s the opposite of all of the ubiquitous luxury shopping women find so easily elsewhere in the world," she said.
Taking the final spot on the mens’ portion of New York Fashion Week calendar next month will be none other than @tomford. Though he’s shown his men’s wear in New York in the past, this will mark the first time the designer has shown his men’s collection alone during New York Fashion Week: Men’s. His runway show will debut on February 6 at the Park Avenue Armory. #wwdfashion
London-based couture house @ralphandrusso has certainly been in the spotlight, having its dresses worn by @beyonce, Angelina Jolie, Meghan Markle in her engagement photos and more. For couture, Tamara Ralph focused on ornamentation — think: feathers with chain mail, jet embroidery and clusters of pearls and crystals. See the rest of the collection on WWD.com #wwdfashion #couture (📷: @giovanni_giannoni_photo)
Minnie Mouse celebrated her 90th birthday by getting her own star on the Hollywood Walk of Fame. For her celebratory luncheon, @coach’s creative director @stuartvevers dressed her in a custom made prairie dress, complete with Vever’s take on the polka dot – black sequined versions – under a cropped motorcycle jacket. The designer also put his own mark on Minnie’s classic red shoes, infusing the color with sparkles and adding some Coach crystals. “We chose colors that were very Minnie and also represented quintessential Coach elements,” said Vevers. #wwdfashion #nationalpolkadotday (📷: George Chinsee)
@nickjonas is unveiling his first-ever apparel collection through a partnership with John Varvatos. The limited-edition capsule, which makes its debut in spring, also marks the first time the designer has collaborated with anyone on a line. “The process in working with Nick is amazing. It’s inspiring to be around someone who is not only connected with the trade that they do, but also with what’s happening in the environment around him, and how that connects to what we do with style,” said Varvatos. (RG: @johnvarvatos) #wwdfashion
@margotrobbie steps out onto the red carpet wearing @miumiu. The actress is nominated for “Outstanding Performance by a Female Actor in a Leading Role” in “I, Tonya” at the #SagAwards. (📷: Stewart Cook) #wwdfashion
For @massimogiorgetti of @msgm, the Nineties are his favorite decade. “They had a huge impact on my personal growth. What I like of the Nineties is that they are not so precise in terms of style as other decades…there was actually a bit of everything,” he said. As seen on MSGM’s Spring 2018 show: tie-dye and a bit of grunge, two styles that are synonymous with the decade #wwdfashion #wwddecades (📷: @kukukuba)